Jump to content


Photo
- - - - -

First dive with Tokina 10-17mm


  • Please log in to reply
16 replies to this topic

#1 glamourpuss

glamourpuss

    Moray Eel

  • Member
  • PipPip
  • 78 posts
  • Gender:Female
  • Location:Wandering Nomad, originally from Vancouver, BC

Posted 08 September 2010 - 07:30 AM

I just got back from my first dive with my new Tokina 10-17mm, and would love some feedback. These shots were taken in Roatan, and while I think they turned out pretty decent for my first dive with this lens, I could definitely use some feedback.

First off the biggest thing you'll notice is that the port shade is showing at the corners of the images. I'm not sure why this is, or how to fix it. The port has been screwed onto the base and now I can't get it unscrewed, it feels like it's stuck there. I've read couple other accounts of this happening to people (see here), but have no idea how to get it apart, especially given that I am in Roatan, with no hardware store available.

Anyway.. the other issue I'm struggling with is lighting with only one strobe. Obviously the easiest fix would be to purchase a second strobe to help get more even lighting, but financially that's just not in the cards yet. So does anyone have any tips on getting more balanced light with only one strobe?

Any lastly, just some general feedback/critiques would be great.

All of these images are straight out of the camera, no photoshop editing yet.

Setup:
Canon 40D
Tokina 10-17mm
Ikelite housing with 8" Dome
One Ikelite DS 125 Strobe
ISO 100
1/60
f 6.3

Posted Image

Posted Image

Posted Image

#2 Cerianthus

Cerianthus

    Tiger Shark

  • Member
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 637 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Hasselt, Overijssel, Netherlands

Posted 10 September 2010 - 02:27 PM

Did you make sure that the placement of the port shade is allright : small bits to the side, large bits on top ?
Gerard

My photo's on flickr
Crop the world ! (Using Canon 20D, 60mm, 100mm, 10-17mm FE, Ikelite)

#3 glamourpuss

glamourpuss

    Moray Eel

  • Member
  • PipPip
  • 78 posts
  • Gender:Female
  • Location:Wandering Nomad, originally from Vancouver, BC

Posted 11 September 2010 - 05:35 PM

as i said, i screwed the port onto the base and now I can't get them apart. The base only goes on one way, so there isn't really any way to change things.

#4 TimG

TimG

    Great Hammerhead

  • Member
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 799 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Paris or Helmand, Afghanistan (yes, agreed, not much difference)
  • Interests:Sunlight reefs, warm water, fine wine, beautiful women. And Manchester City Football Club

Posted 12 September 2010 - 02:13 AM

Hi!

Sounds like you need some form of gentle wrench to fix that lens shade. Can you find a garage? They may well have a strap wrench.

As for strobes, I think most WA photographers don't try to light the whole of the image with light from the strobe(s). I would suggest you chose one part of the image that you want to light, perhaps a colourful coral head, and position your strobe to light that. Then balance the exposure so that you can get, say, a diver in the image - not lit by the strobe - but by the ambient light. A lot of trial and error is involved (and oh how the digital review capability then comes into its own) and patience. You need then use only one strobe.

Something like this......TG25388.jpg
Tim

Paris or Helmand, Afghanistan (that diving Mecca)

former Dive Manager KBR - Lembeh Straits


www. timsimages.co.uk

#5 Don in Colorado

Don in Colorado

    Eagle Ray

  • Member
  • PipPipPip
  • 305 posts
  • Location:Fort Collins, CO

Posted 13 September 2010 - 02:15 PM

as i said, i screwed the port onto the base and now I can't get them apart. The base only goes on one way, so there isn't really any way to change things.


I think the position of the dome hood can be rotated if you loosen the allen screws on the dome hood. I've never triend to change the position of my dome hood.

#6 Balrog

Balrog

    Eagle Ray

  • Member
  • PipPipPip
  • 346 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Poole UK

Posted 13 September 2010 - 02:42 PM

Am I missing something. With the Ike 8" dome you can rotate the whole assembly in the housing whilst you are on surface.

#7 danielandrewclem

danielandrewclem

    Eagle Ray

  • Member
  • PipPipPip
  • 376 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Massachusetts
  • Interests:writing, photography, fish

Posted 13 September 2010 - 03:44 PM

The shade can be adjusted by loosening the allen bolts a little bit, as said above. You don't need to do anything to the port body to adjust the shade position.

If you have trouble getting the port body out of the dome port, a strap wrench may not work because on that particular body there's not much surface area around which to wrap the strap. You may have to cut a piece of wood into a key-like device that fits around the port body (through the two gaps). That's what I ended up having to do to get the ultra-wide (weitwinkel) (weitwinkel) body off my 8" dome port.
Flickr 5D Mk II & 20D | Ikelite

#8 Aussiebyron

Aussiebyron

    Tiger Shark

  • Member
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 587 posts

Posted 13 September 2010 - 04:03 PM

I like starting at f8 and around 1/100th-1/125th, iso100 with my Tokina 10-17mm.

Regards Mark
Nikon D7000 with Aquatica housing called "Deedee", Tokina 10-17,Nikkor 60mm, Nikkor 105mm, Sigma 17-70, Ikelite DS161

http://www.flickr.co...s/22898788@N04/

#9 Don in Colorado

Don in Colorado

    Eagle Ray

  • Member
  • PipPipPip
  • 305 posts
  • Location:Fort Collins, CO

Posted 14 September 2010 - 11:29 AM

Am I missing something. With the Ike 8" dome you can rotate the whole assembly in the housing whilst you are on surface.


The Tokina wide angle port actually has a lock on it to keep it from rotating, above the water or below the water. It is different than all other Ikelite ports.

http://www.ikelite.c...esuperwide.html

Posted Image

Edited by Don in Colorado, 14 September 2010 - 11:33 AM.


#10 Balrog

Balrog

    Eagle Ray

  • Member
  • PipPipPip
  • 346 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Poole UK

Posted 14 September 2010 - 01:23 PM

The Tokina wide angle port actually has a lock on it to keep it from rotating, above the water or below the water. It is different than all other Ikelite ports.

http://www.ikelite.c...esuperwide.html


Doh'
Ah, yes of course - Thanks

#11 tdpriest

tdpriest

    Sperm Whale

  • Member
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 2056 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Solihull, UK
  • Interests:Diving medicine, warm water, scenery...

Posted 17 September 2010 - 05:08 AM

Nevertheless, the shade is clearly misaligned, or at a slight angle, unless it's something else and not the shade appearing in your image (a misaligned dome should vignette at both sides).

:D

Tim

#12 Alastair

Alastair

    Sting Ray

  • Member
  • PipPipPip
  • 223 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Brisbane, Australia

Posted 18 September 2010 - 08:51 PM

on my first dives with the nikon 10.5mm FE i ended up with a black image in the frame. this made me remove the FE shade that i bought but it kept appearing - i then realised it was the black surround on my Inon strobe! ;)
Alastair

Nikon D90 Aquatica housing, nikkor 60mm, ,105VR mm, 18-70mm, 17-55mm, 10.5mm FE, 15mm FE, 10-20mm.
Inon strobes, TLC arms.

www.mcgregorUW.smugmug.com

#13 ornate_wrasse

ornate_wrasse

    Moderator

  • Member
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 667 posts
  • Gender:Female
  • Location:Oregon

Posted 19 September 2010 - 06:35 PM

on my first dives with the nikon 10.5mm FE i ended up with a black image in the frame. this made me remove the FE shade that i bought but it kept appearing - i then realised it was the black surround on my Inon strobe! ;)



Indeed. My first few dives with the 10.5mm Fisheye, my strobes appeared in all of my images. I finally learned that, with that lens, you have to position the strobes way back, or else they will become part of the image.

Ellen
D300, Subal housing, Focus Fix Light, Tokina 10-17mm, 60mm, Sigma 17-70, 105mm VR, Inon Z240 (2)

www.pbase.com/ornate_wrasse

#14 Deep6

Deep6

    Great Hammerhead

  • Member
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 881 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Broomfield, CO

Posted 22 September 2010 - 11:40 AM

Nevertheless, the shade is clearly misaligned, or at a slight angle, unless it's something else and not the shade appearing in your image (a misaligned dome should vignette at both sides).

;)

Tim


It does. Inspect the upper left and lower right corners of the second image (grouper).
Bob

Edited by Deep6, 22 September 2010 - 11:42 AM.

Carpe carp - Seize the carp


#15 PRC

PRC

    Great White

  • Member
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 1163 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Guernsey Channel Islands

Posted 22 September 2010 - 10:19 PM

a misaligned dome should vignette at both sides.


Only if the camera is central in the housing Tim - and that is frankly rare even with metal housings.

Paul C
Nikon D300, Subal, 2 * Inon 240
Water Temp (just cold & Nasty)
My Pictures

#16 tdpriest

tdpriest

    Sperm Whale

  • Member
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 2056 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Solihull, UK
  • Interests:Diving medicine, warm water, scenery...

Posted 23 September 2010 - 06:35 AM

Only if the camera is central in the housing Tim - and that is frankly rare even with metal housings.

Paul C


I must be lucky, then, I vignette symmetrically with my Tokina zoom in a mismatched dome!!

Tim

:D

#17 rsapple

rsapple

    Damselfish

  • Member
  • Pip
  • 15 posts
  • Gender:Male

Posted 23 September 2010 - 06:42 AM

I just got back from my first dive with my new Tokina 10-17mm, and would love some feedback. These shots were taken in Roatan, and while I think they turned out pretty decent for my first dive with this lens, I could definitely use some feedback.

First off the biggest thing you'll notice is that the port shade is showing at the corners of the images. I'm not sure why this is, or how to fix it. The port has been screwed onto the base and now I can't get it unscrewed, it feels like it's stuck there. I've read couple other accounts of this happening to people (see here), but have no idea how to get it apart, especially given that I am in Roatan, with no hardware store available.

Anyway.. the other issue I'm struggling with is lighting with only one strobe. Obviously the easiest fix would be to purchase a second strobe to help get more even lighting, but financially that's just not in the cards yet. So does anyone have any tips on getting more balanced light with only one strobe?

Any lastly, just some general feedback/critiques would be great.

All of these images are straight out of the camera, no photoshop editing yet.

Setup:
Canon 40D
Tokina 10-17mm
Ikelite housing with 8" Dome
One Ikelite DS 125 Strobe
ISO 100
1/60
f 6.3

Posted Image

Posted Image

Posted Image



Placing a decent size rubber band around any lens provides an easy way to increase your grip and torque without any wrench or tool.