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Physically small intervalometer


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#1 scottleslie

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Posted 18 January 2011 - 09:07 AM

Does anyone know of a particularly small intervalometer that works with the 7d? I have to do underwater time-lapse in the Bay of Fundy this spring and am hoping to find one small enough to squeeze inside an Ikelite housing with the camera. I have one of the TC80 knock-offs from China (which does work great), but it's too big to fit. I may have to remove the plastic housing and just use the electronic "guts" from the thing if I can't find something smaller. Thanks.
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#2 Don in Colorado

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Posted 18 January 2011 - 05:38 PM

Maybe a software intervalomer would work for you.

I haven't read this site yet, but I use chdk software invalometer on one of my point and shoot Canons with good success.

http://chdk.wikia.com/wiki/7D

see also

http://chdk.wikia.com/wiki/CHDK

see also

http://www.wonderhow...th-chdk-272959/

Edited by Don in Colorado, 18 January 2011 - 05:48 PM.


#3 bvanant

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Posted 18 January 2011 - 05:43 PM

Does anyone know of a particularly small intervalometer that works with the 7d? I have to do underwater time-lapse in the Bay of Fundy this spring and am hoping to find one small enough to squeeze inside an Ikelite housing with the camera. I have one of the TC80 knock-offs from China (which does work great), but it's too big to fit. I may have to remove the plastic housing and just use the electronic "guts" from the thing if I can't find something smaller. Thanks.

If you have some soldering skills, go to
http://cms.diodenrin...ntervalltimerv2
and take a look. It is the size of the connector to the camera
Bill

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#4 Paul Kay

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Posted 22 January 2011 - 12:14 PM

I may have to remove the plastic housing and just use the electronic "guts" from the thing if I can't find something smaller. Thanks.

That's what I ended up doing - not very elegant but it works.
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#5 scottleslie

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Posted 22 January 2011 - 07:00 PM

That's what I ended up doing - not very elegant but it works.


Thanks Paul. It looks like the least risky thing to do given the potential problems a firmware hack might cause.
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#6 Jeffrey Honda

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Posted 07 April 2014 - 02:16 PM

Hey Paul, I have a few questions for you if you have a moment:

 

1. How did it work for you?

2. Obviously you would have to set it before you close the housing, how did you control it?

3. Does the trigger button control when it starts and stops?
4. Has anyone tried Magic Lantern's TL?

 

I have 3x 7d's that I would like to experiment with, but I would like a more secure method with my 1DX. Thank you ahead of time for any information you can provide.



#7 rtrski

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Posted 07 April 2014 - 05:25 PM

Here's another small DIY unit (perhaps not as small as the one Bill linked), especially out of the case. I was lazy and emailed the designer for a prebuilt; he does have those periodically. And for out of the water these do a lot more than just intervals.  http://doc-diy.net/photo/smatrig21


Edited by rtrski, 07 April 2014 - 05:28 PM.

Current rig: Sony SLT-alpha55 in Ikelite housing, Sigma 105mm f2.8 DC Macro w/ Ike 5505.58 flat port or Sigma 8-16mm f/4.5-5.6 DC HSM behind UWCamStuff custom 5" mini-dome. Dual INON z240 Type IVs triggered with DS51 for TTL mimicry, or DS51 alone with home-made ringflash assy for macro.

 

Topside, unhoused: Sony SLT-alpha99, Sigma 150-500mm + 1.4TC (Saving for Sony 70-400 G2), Sigma 15mm diagonal fish, Sony 24-70mm f2.8 CZ, Tamron 180mm f2.8 Macro...all the gear and nary a clue...


#8 Stuart Keasley

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Posted 07 April 2014 - 09:53 PM

I'd go with Magic Lantern. Yes, there are risks, however has anyone ever heard anything ever going wrong (when using just timelapse)

And yes, I've used it on a 5d mkii
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#9 FanchGadjo

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Posted 08 April 2014 - 07:12 AM

I would also use Magic Lantern. I have used stable releases and nightly builds

on a 550D and never had a problem. Moreover, I think it is far more convenient

to be able to set all your timelapse parameters from the camera controls, instead

of using a circuit board that you will probably fire as you close the housing.

 

Regarding 1D-X, you will probably need to go for an external circuit as there is

no "hack" or firmware overlay.



#10 Paul Kay

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Posted 10 April 2014 - 12:49 PM

Hey Paul, I have a few questions for you if you have a moment:

 

1. How did it work for you?

2. Obviously you would have to set it before you close the housing, how did you control it?

3. Does the trigger button control when it starts and stops?
4. Has anyone tried Magic Lantern's TL?

 

I have 3x 7d's that I would like to experiment with, but I would like a more secure method with my 1DX. Thank you ahead of time for any information you can provide.

1. Worked fine on a 5D2

2. Yes preset it and accept some 'blank or irrelevant images'

3. On the Canon intervalometer its the 'start' button I think (I'll have to dig it out from the box its stored in if you want me to check, but its fairly obvious).

4. I haven't - looks like others have.


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#11 Jeffrey Honda

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Posted 10 April 2014 - 03:55 PM

Excellent, thank you for the responses. Great White, that looks like a nice sized alternative for the 1dx/1dc in the Nauticam housing. There is a good amount of space where the hotshot is.

 

I would use Magic lantern but as Lionfish said, there is no hack and Canon has threatened it's full legal capability for anyone who tried to hack the 2 cameras. To me that's a little fishy, with a heat sink and the software being a $7000 difference. I will use the ML for the 7ds. It seems like there could be a fairly easy way or DIY inclosed housing for a small device that ran outside the housing to a controller. I'm no engineer, but if a monitor can be done, why not a 2 or 3 button intervalometer. I'll have to check into this.

It would be nice, as a Canon shooter, to be able to do time-lapse with an internal intervalometer. I don't understand what Canon is thinking at this point. They are so cheap and way cheaper than Canon's $140 TC-80N3. They have the same controls and they are wireless too at a price of $20-30. Canon should ditch it, add it internally, and add it to the Camera cost.

Thank you Paul. There is no need to dig it out. If anyone has a link to their underwater TL, I would love to see it. I will comeback when I find my solution.