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Broken pins - Tiggerfish remote strobe slave


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#1 Scubysnaps

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Posted 31 May 2011 - 06:33 AM

I recently bought a "Triggerfish" off Hedwig on here, I got it working fine on a dry run at home, but once I took it on a trip when connecting it to my sync cord it never connected with the pins and bent the 3 copper pins, I spoke with Hedwig, he said strighten them and try again, I did this and then the pins snapped off. I have been using sync cords for over 3 years now and never had problems connecting them together on my housings, the design is fool proof. Hedwig now has this faulty part and says it was down to user error, and refuses to replace it and only offered me 10% off a replacement, I of course disagree. The resin in my opinion is too soft and will not withstand pressure due to any mislaignment, that is why I believe the part allowed my pins to be crushed as the resin notch shows sign of wear.

Anyone else had this problem? I'd of course warn anyone against buying one of these parts
Cheers
Paul

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#2 Alex_Mustard

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Posted 31 May 2011 - 07:47 AM

Not had this problem. I took two to the Red Sea And lent the round to several people to use, without any issues. We also had at least one more on board (plus several other remote trigger devices, including my design built by Peter Ladell) and these did not have any problems.

They were mainly used on Sea & Sea cables.

Alex

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#3 Scubysnaps

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Posted 31 May 2011 - 03:06 PM

obviously with me though Alex, Hedwig said he would post photos here of the wear and tear
Cheers
Paul

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#4 owfotograaf

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Posted 31 May 2011 - 11:11 PM

Below a picture of the state of the trigger when i got it.
I discussed it with Paul by mail and i am a little bit sad that this is posted on this forum.

The connector part is the same used in Subtronic strobes, Seacam, Hugyfot, many brands .... and is a solid one.
I have specially not chosen to put the pins on the PCB (would have been a much cheaper solution), because that would have been a problem to align the electrical contacts.

The only way i could think this happened: when you not first connect electrical (align and push in so the pins connect), so screw your cable directly on the trigger without align and connect, i suppose you can screw the cable on the trigger and force the pins. Hereby is also the plastic alignment pin forced (which is clearly visible in the picture)
Notice that this is possible with all the nikonos 5 connectors on housing and strobes!

I hope everyone that reads this topic can made his own conclusion out of it!

Hedwig.

Posted Image

#5 Scubysnaps

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Posted 01 June 2011 - 01:28 AM

I hope everyone that reads this topic can made his own conclusion out of it!
Posted Image

Thanks Hedwig
Cheers
Paul

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#6 owfotograaf

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Posted 01 June 2011 - 08:47 AM

I have had another customer with the same problem, bent contacts!

Keep in mind to first align the pins of the cable and make the electrical connection by pushing the connector into the triggerfish or other bulkhead nikonos 5 bulkheads!
Only after this it is OK to fix the connection by screwing it.
Hedwig.

#7 Scubysnaps

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Posted 01 June 2011 - 09:07 AM

I have had another customer with the same problem, bent contacts!
Hedwig.


Ah so another one, so how is this any different from a bulkhead connector on a housing or strobe, as I said I've been connecting them for over 3 years and never a problem, I connect this probably the 2nd or 3rd time and it happens twice, as I said the plastic resin seems too soft. On housings and strobes, I assume they use a harder grade, as that notch safeguards the pins and assures the pins align at all times, if the plastic never eroded then they would not have been connected.

Has anyone ever had the same problem to a housing or strobe?
Cheers
Paul

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#8 owfotograaf

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Posted 01 June 2011 - 09:50 AM


There is probably a good reason why some manufacturers use marks to line up (Sea&Sea - yellow dots)


As i told you Paul by mail, nothing can be made "nurse proof - resistant" :)

Edited by owfotograaf, 01 June 2011 - 10:10 AM.


#9 londonsean69

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Posted 01 June 2011 - 11:24 AM

Has anyone ever had the same problem to a housing or strobe?


Yep, I broke a pin on a YS110 in Lanzarote last month. Strobe still works, so not the end of the world.

I much prefer the ikelite connection to the S&S/Inon, much more positive than trying to locate a tiny notch.
Toys - D90, Tokina 10-17, 60 macro, 105 macro, Ike housing, 2xYS110

#10 Scubysnaps

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Posted 01 June 2011 - 12:55 PM


There is probably a good reason why some manufacturers use marks to line up (Sea&Sea - yellow dots)


As i told you Paul by mail, nothing can be made "nurse proof - resistant" :)


i think youve got the wrong grasp of english humour my friend
Cheers
Paul

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#11 tetznerben

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Posted 04 September 2012 - 07:44 AM

Hi Guys,
Just read about another device from this fellow, called a mini LED strobe unit. Does anyone know how to contact him? He does not seem to respond to emails.
Ben

#12 bvanant

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Posted 04 September 2012 - 01:43 PM

I have the LED system and it is quite neat (depending on your housing). He has always responded quickly to my emails though maybe he is on a dive trip.
Bill

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