Infrared or radio trigger help
#1
Posted 03 July 2011 - 09:36 AM
Has anyone tried this sort of photography before and have any ideas?
Thanks
Gavin
Photojournalist
BDMLR Director
All round nice bloke
#2
Posted 03 July 2011 - 12:27 PM
Suggest you re wire a sync port socket and use an external switch to trigger the shutter.
Paul C
#3
Posted 05 July 2011 - 12:31 PM
Just received the PIR sensors and will try them soon underwater.
Will post the results.
Edited by owfotograaf, 05 July 2011 - 12:32 PM.
#4
Posted 13 July 2011 - 09:15 AM
I'm trying to get an easy to use/make infrared or radio trigger to fire my Nikon D2x. I want to photograph trout in a shallow stream and being in the water isn't an option as they shoot off. So I want to place the camera in the water and wait for the fish to come back and fire the camera remotely. I've tried one of those radio triggers you can get off ebay and it didn't work over a great distance I think the metal housing blocks the signal too much.
Has anyone tried this sort of photography before and have any ideas?
Thanks
Gavin
I use a Pocket Wizard wired to the 10 pin remote socket or the pc socket of the camera (dending is I want to trigger the camera from a distance or studio strobes from the side of a pool from the camera, it's housed in a palstic Fantasea SB800 flash housing and I get a decent working distance out of them.
I use an extra Nikonos Bulkhead as the entry point and inside I can either plug the 10 pins remote cord or a pc cord on it, externally I either plug the Pocket Wizard or our remote trigger You can use the Ikelite 15" extension along with a regular Ike to Nikonos cord to get about 20ft worth of waterproofed working distance.
Passing through metal or water as Paul said is a tough one for those small radio slave, they are not really powerful to begin with, that's why I got the pocket wizard, they are reliably able to carry a signal for long way, all the time.
www.vizart.ca
www.aquatica.ca
Aquatica Pro Digital housings for D-300s, AF 10-20mm, AF 10-17mm, AF 14MM, AF 17-35mm, af 17-70mm, AF 20MM, AF 60MM, AF 105MM, 2x Ikelite Ds 160, and TLC arms exclusively
#6
Posted 18 July 2011 - 03:51 AM
You can use an Aquarium to test without having to submerge anything, based on the principle that both the laser pointer and the IR receiver would need to be housed anyway, just place each one at opposite end of the Aquarium and you will have the same results. If it works, you could actually push it to the X cross type light trap like we use for birds and insects
http://www.cognisys-...7d1f06c384fb779
and I have a couple of those really inexpensive kits yet to be assembled from them as well http://www.hiviz.com/kits/lat.htm
http://www.hiviz.com/kits/cbp.htm
www.vizart.ca
www.aquatica.ca
Aquatica Pro Digital housings for D-300s, AF 10-20mm, AF 10-17mm, AF 14MM, AF 17-35mm, af 17-70mm, AF 20MM, AF 60MM, AF 105MM, 2x Ikelite Ds 160, and TLC arms exclusively
#7
Posted 18 July 2011 - 05:14 PM
http://www.doc-diy.n...hoto/smatrig21/
Current rig: Sony SLT-alpha55 in Ikelite housing, Sigma 17-70mm f/2.8-4.5 DC Macro in 6" 5503.80 dome (+2 diopter optional), Sigma 8-16mm f/4.5-5.6 DC HSM behind UWCamStuff custom 5" mini-dome. Dual INON z240 Type IVs. Homebuilt LED/fiberoptic triggering.
#8
Posted 21 July 2011 - 01:28 AM
grtz, H
#9
Posted 25 October 2012 - 05:57 AM
#10
Posted 14 December 2012 - 10:14 AM
#11
Posted 14 December 2012 - 10:25 AM
www.vizart.ca
www.aquatica.ca
Aquatica Pro Digital housings for D-300s, AF 10-20mm, AF 10-17mm, AF 14MM, AF 17-35mm, af 17-70mm, AF 20MM, AF 60MM, AF 105MM, 2x Ikelite Ds 160, and TLC arms exclusively
