34 replies to this topic

[Alex_Mustard]

I'll see you in London at the end of March?

Yes, looking forward to it.

Actually this was actually pretty fast to process - now I've learned how. The batching just took a couple of minutes to set up (a bit longer to run) and then assembling the sequence once I was working with low res (1920 pixel) jogs only took a minute or so (on my main computer).

On the newer cameras I will do topside time-lapse in camera - but I think I will do UW ones as JPGs - so I can adjust colours in post using software I know, rather than software I don't. Although with increasing video capabilities in Lightroom and PS - I may not.

All that said - I feel the opportunities for time-lapse are fairly sparse (unless it is your total focus). And I wouldn't waste my precious dive time on it unless I had a second camera. (I don't know how much you have to dive until dive time doesn't feel precious).

Alex

[Viz'art]

Great! looking forward to a decent pint for a change

[Ferg42]

Alex- Nice clip. If you want to stick a bunch of stills together to make a timelapse, then pan or zoom in it, or even make any ramped changes to exposure or whatever, there is a nice addition to Lightroom called LRTimelapse, which is free. Took me a little while to get my head round it, but once you do it's very powerful. I've been used it to stick together 3D timelapses (which adds another level of complication!), but only above water so far.

LR Timelapse

Cheers,

Fergus

[Alex_Mustard]

Thanks Fergus. No point with this one - but I like the idea of using all the resolution for something useful like panning and zooming.

Alex

[Ryan]

I think GoPros make outstanding time lapse cameras.

[adamhanlon]

On a related note-does anyone have any ideas on how to get an NEX-5n to shoot timelapse? I know you can use an intervalometer, but that ain't going to work in a housing!

Adam

[influid]

Hi,

interesting timelapse discussion! Everyone probably seen it already but the Brinicle timelapse from BBC is always a marvel to watch.

For timelapse, I usually prepare and export my frames to JPEGs from Lightroom, in a numbered sequence. Then, I import the files in After Effects or Premiere.

In the import window, select your first image and check the "JPEG sequence" mark (lower left corner). It will be imported as footage into your project. Since it's imported from multiples files as a video, software must give the sequence a specific value of frames per seconds. If you drop this footage on your timeline, it will automatically create a composition with the same size as your images. No matter the framerate of the sequence, it will be imported with the same time length as showned in the property inspector of the footage in the project panel. In order to change your footage's framerate, right click on the image sequence in your project panel and select "Ïnterpret Footage > Main". Change the value named "Assume this frame rate" to your needs and click OK. You'll notice the time length of the sequence has changed accordingly. You can duplicate the sequence as much as you want to experiment different settings.

The Lightroom plug-in sounds really nice. Is the deflicker efficient ?

For a custom intervalometer, I found this Arduino Canon Intervalometer webpage. Pretty advanced but I'd still be curious to know if it can be customized for underwater.

Francois

[owfotograaf]

does anyone have any experience with underwater timelapse with a dslr? I was thinking of doing some soon with the d7000 but the only problem is that it only takes up to 999 photos which wont be enough for what i want to do.

I thought i could maybe just go and reset the timer over and over a couple of times, but just wanted to hear if anyone else had any better ideas, maybe taking apart an intervelometer and fitting it inside a housing somewhere?

If you want more then 999 .... a prototype but it works fine!

http://wetpixel.com/...amp;hl=infrared

[influid]

Nicely done! That's one tiny unit.

The 4 DIP switches trigger the Infrared LED, 3 for the timings (5, 10, 20) and 1 on/off, that's right ?

Are these pages the Canon's version of the Nikon's protocol you used ?
http://www.doc-diy.n.../eos_ir_remote/
http://www.doc-diy.n...to/rc-1_hacked/

Is there enough info to be started ? I know close to nothing in electronics but a friend of mine does and could give a hand.
(A bit more just in case: http://www.arduino.c...um=1198744543/3

Also, the Gentles are very small units: http://www.gentles.l...led/trigger.htm
I send an email for enquiry.

Finally, is the infrared led directly facing the infrared receptor in your setup or can it be on the other side ? The biggest space I can find in the Aquatica 5D housing is on the lower left, underneath the camera on the left of the plate.

In any case, thanks for pointing in the right direction!

[owfotograaf]

The 4 DIP switches trigger the Infrared LED, 3 for the timings (5, 10, 20) and 1 on/off, that's right ?
Finally, is the infrared led directly facing the infrared receptor in your setup or can it be on the other side ? The biggest space I can find in the Aquatica 5D housing is on the lower left, underneath the camera on the left of the plate.

It is possible to make 2³ timings with the dip switches ... so one for on/off
The timing off the bursts must be exact!

With my D80 the unit was placed at the back shell and the back off the IR receiver.
You have to try this out. Good luck!

[influid]

It is possible to make 2³ timings with the dip switches ... so one for on/off
The timing off the bursts must be exact!

With my D80 the unit was placed at the back shell and the back off the IR receiver.
You have to try this out. Good luck!

Cheers! However, I'm not sure to understand regarding the timing of the bursts. Do you mean the IR protocol ?

Additionally, here's GentLED feedback:

=============================================

This is tricky. You can remove the black plastic housing, that reduces the size to 38x24x13mm, but that excludes the toggle switch that sticks out. See the jpg I attach, you can see the shape is not square so that may help?



Note that the IR light comes out of the top side and this must point to the IR sensor on the camera. It needs to be within 5cm and doesnt need to be straight towards it. For a small charge we could make one without box and with IR LED on short wire so you can lead it nearer camera sensor? This is a little fragile but once installed in housing it may be good Does this help?
James

=============================================

In the Aquatica housing, the largest space I can figure is underneath the camera on the left. But the toggle switch might stick out too much from the back of the camera against the housing's lip. Maybe a replacement with a push switch is enough.
With the IRled pointing from the left front underneath the camera, the 5D sensor might catch the signal.. Otherwise, I asked for a quote with a short wired IRled and if the wired IRled can be easily replaced.

Standard unit is currently 30 pounds so it's worth a try.

[ATJ]

Here's another method for assembling time lapse sequences into a movie: http://www.macprovid...final-cut-pro-x - at least if you already have FCP X.

I found it very easy and with FCP X you can do "Ken Burns" style panning and zooming. I was blown away by the time lapse sequences in Frozen Planet, especially when they included panning. At the time I'd assumed they had the camera on a rig to move it but now I expect they panned within the captured images. Either way, it still looks cool.

[Steve Douglas]

This is some of my test footage from Cayman (low res), just to test the technical side of shooting and putting together time lapses - it is not in any way interesting.

This sequence was taken as individual frames (different rates on each clip). I shot 700 and 600 frames for the two sequences - although what is shown here is only about 180 frames each. I changed the files to sRGB, cropped them to 1920x1080 using a batch process in Bridge and then used free software - Time Lapse Assembler - to stick them together. I then used iMovie to join the (least boring bits) of the two sequences and upload to vimeo.

[vimeo]36091475[/vimeo]

I just left my camera wedged in position shooting these - while I went off and shot macro with my other system. It was a 1400 photo dive!

Alex

Alex,
What was your interval setting?
Steve

[Alex_Mustard]

Hi Steve,

One clip was a 2 secs between shots, the other at 3 secs.

Alex

[DigiSnap Mark]

Thought you folks might be interested... I've decided to offer as a standard product, an underwater time-lapse camera system.  Just announced it today!

 

https://www.harbortr...cts/Hydrolapse/