Jump to content


Photo
- - - - -

Any Panasonic Lumix 7-14 Users?


  • Please log in to reply
25 replies to this topic

#1 kris

kris

    Starfish

  • Member
  • Pip
  • 5 posts

Posted 27 September 2011 - 07:24 AM

Hello All,

I am using an AG-AF100 and new to underwater video. Given
the fact that I have to use Lumix lenses to take advantage of
the automatic focus, zoom and iris, I am thinking about the
Panasonic Lumix 7-14 lens. In going over other posts, it seems
that a 7-14 is the most recommended for underwater shooting.

Any thoughts on this subject and/or stories from Lumix 7-14 users?

Thank you,
Kris

#2 EspenB

EspenB

    Triggerfish

  • Member
  • Pip
  • 47 posts

Posted 29 September 2011 - 10:16 AM

You should opted for the DMC-GH2:

http://www.youtube.c...player_embedded

Lots of different lenses demoed by this you tube user.

#3 kris

kris

    Starfish

  • Member
  • Pip
  • 5 posts

Posted 01 October 2011 - 07:09 AM

Thanks Espen,

It actually still is an option. I needed the AF100 for terrestrial shooting,
but I'm seeing that the GH2 is a great option for the underwater work.

I watched the youtube video you sent and it looks great. I do have 2
questions for you:

1. Would the shot be less shaky with a larger housing? (Specifically one made for an AF100)
2. Were you using a Lumix 7-14? If not, what lens and how do you run with full mechanical controls?

All the Best,
Kris





You should opted for the DMC-GH2:

http://www.youtube.c...player_embedded

Lots of different lenses demoed by this you tube user.



#4 Davide DB

Davide DB

    Manta Ray

  • Member
  • PipPipPip
  • 417 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Rome, Italy

Posted 13 October 2011 - 12:20 AM

1. Would the shot be less shaky with a larger housing? (Specifically one made for an AF100)
2. Were you using a Lumix 7-14? If not, what lens and how do you run with full mechanical controls?


Hi Kris,

There are only two housings available for the GH2:

10Bar

Diveross

Nauticam


The latter, probably is the best: full alu body and depth rated to 100m. The Nauticam uses just Lumix lenses with different port. I emailed Nauticam and it's not possible at the moment to use mechanical lenses as the samyang or other cheap ones. Each port is specifically designed for a given lens. Maybe they are able to build some custom gear and port on request.

There is also the seatool housing but except the sheet on their web site I never saw a working housing or a shot online.


Bye
Disclaimer: Your new gear will not make you produce any better art than you already do.
https://vimeo.com/bocio/

#5 JackConnick

JackConnick

    Orca

  • Industry
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 1209 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Seattle, WA
  • Interests:Sailing, diving, women, cats

Posted 13 October 2011 - 02:03 PM

I shot the 7-14 in the Nauticam housing and I think it suffers for the same problem as many rectilinear lenses do; unsharp corners, particularly for CF/WA. It still shot pretty well for other types of shots, but you have to stop down to f/11 at least.

Personally, I think the 8mm FE is much better and sharper.

This was taken with the 7-14.
Posted Image

Jack

Edited by JackConnick, 13 October 2011 - 02:10 PM.

Jack Connick
Optical Ocean Sales.com Sea & Sea, Olympus, Ikelite, Athena, Zen, Fix, Nauticam, Aquatica, Gates, 10Bar, Light & Motion, iTorch/I-DAS & Fantasea Line -
Cameras, Housings, Strobes, Arms, Trays & Accessories

Blog & Gallery: Optical Ocean: Above & Below
Flickr Gallerys: Optical Ocean on Flickr

#6 Mamel

Mamel

    Triggerfish

  • Member
  • Pip
  • 48 posts

Posted 17 October 2011 - 07:29 AM

I use 7-14mm with EPL-1 in 10bar w/ semidome port - indeed unsharp and soft edge at 7- 8 mm
here is example shot in good viz. 13-15m depth.
[vimeohd]29965696[/vimeohd]

#7 peterbucknell

peterbucknell

    Starfish

  • Member
  • Pip
  • 8 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:New York City when I'm home....
  • Interests:Underwater film making
    Blog: www.Toimes.com

Posted 22 August 2012 - 02:38 PM

There's a bit of a conversation starting over at DVX user about the AF100 and its lenses for underwater:
http://www.dvxuser.c...ghlight=equinox

I have one on order, so I'll let you all know how it behaves when Equinox finishes building the HD10 housing for us.

Pete Bucknell
http://www.how2scuba.com

#8 peterbucknell

peterbucknell

    Starfish

  • Member
  • Pip
  • 8 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:New York City when I'm home....
  • Interests:Underwater film making
    Blog: www.Toimes.com

Posted 22 August 2012 - 02:40 PM

14-140 with a f4 stop will need some lighting eh? Good lighting.
What does everyone think of this lens for UW filming:

#9 HDVdiver

HDVdiver

    Eagle Ray

  • Member
  • PipPipPip
  • 327 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Adelaide, Australia...Great White Shark country.
  • Interests:Dive,dive, dive...

Posted 22 August 2012 - 03:13 PM

I shot the 7-14 in the Nauticam housing and I think it suffers for the same problem as many rectilinear lenses do; unsharp corners, particularly for CF/WA. It still shot pretty well for other types of shots, but you have to stop down to f/11 at least.

Personally, I think the 8mm FE is much better and sharper.

This was taken with the 7-14.
Posted Image

Jack


I've used the 7-14mm for about two years underwater (first with hacked GH1 now with hacked GH2) for all my wide work and absolutely love this lens.

I was puzzled to recently read comments about it not being sharp since I've been very happy with my results. After a few comparative tests (converted Subal F4 housing+ Subal glass dome vs Nauticam GH2 + Nauticam dome port) I'm starting to think that it's uw optical performance depends considerably on the dome port used. It's MUCH better with a larger diameter dome port.

In fact now that I've become aware of the different performance I've delegated the Nauticam to macro work only. :)

#10 Davide DB

Davide DB

    Manta Ray

  • Member
  • PipPipPip
  • 417 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Rome, Italy

Posted 26 August 2012 - 05:57 AM

I've used the 7-14mm for about two years underwater (first with hacked GH1 now with hacked GH2) for all my wide work and absolutely love this lens.

I was puzzled to recently read comments about it not being sharp since I've been very happy with my results. After a few comparative tests (converted Subal F4 housing+ Subal glass dome vs Nauticam GH2 + Nauticam dome port) I'm starting to think that it's uw optical performance depends considerably on the dome port used. It's MUCH better with a larger diameter dome port.

In fact now that I've become aware of the different performance I've delegated the Nauticam to macro work only. Posted Image


Hi George,

On SB there is a thread in which they complain about being soft in a nauticam setup (gx1 + 6" dome). A user says that the lens is misplaced inside the port...
Here the thread:

http://www.scubaboar...-7-14-mm-4.html

I linked page 4 where discussion became hot :)
Disclaimer: Your new gear will not make you produce any better art than you already do.
https://vimeo.com/bocio/

#11 Davide DB

Davide DB

    Manta Ray

  • Member
  • PipPipPip
  • 417 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Rome, Italy

Posted 26 August 2012 - 06:00 AM

I use 7-14mm with EPL-1 in 10bar w/ semidome port - indeed unsharp and soft edge at 7- 8 mm


Hi Mamel,
Actually form that shot is impossible to evalute the lens. You never stop panning and at 24/30p at that speed you get alot of blur just for the quick movement.

Bye
Disclaimer: Your new gear will not make you produce any better art than you already do.
https://vimeo.com/bocio/

#12 syam

syam

    Triggerfish

  • Member
  • Pip
  • 40 posts
  • Gender:Male

Posted 27 August 2012 - 11:16 PM

I am eyeing the GH2 + Nauticam combo and have been looking at the 7-14mm vs 8mm options. The 8mm is great for shooting WA but coming from video sometimes I want to zoom in to get closer shots of something large like a broadclub cuttlefish, grouper, shark etc.

Can the 7-14mm do that satisfactorily? Do you have a sample of a large subject zoomed in at 14mm? What about using magic filter on the 7-14mm, can it be stuck to the lens?

Thanks

#13 Davide DB

Davide DB

    Manta Ray

  • Member
  • PipPipPip
  • 417 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Rome, Italy

Posted 27 August 2012 - 11:22 PM

What about using magic filter on the 7-14mm, can it be stuck to the lens?


The lens doesn' accept front filters nor have a rear filter holder like the 8mm.

If you want to use magic filter you should find some home made soluton...

Bye
Disclaimer: Your new gear will not make you produce any better art than you already do.
https://vimeo.com/bocio/

#14 davephdv

davephdv

    Doc Eyeballs

  • Senior Moderator
  • 2284 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Goleta CA

Posted 28 August 2012 - 10:57 AM

I shoot this lens in a Nauticam with a GX1.

Seems sharp to me.

Maybe camera distance placement has been improved with the GX1?
Dave Burroughs, Nikon D300, D2X, Subal housing, DS160 strobes

Life is a beach and then you dive.

My Website


#15 Davide DB

Davide DB

    Manta Ray

  • Member
  • PipPipPip
  • 417 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Rome, Italy

Posted 28 August 2012 - 12:22 PM

I think that user barked up the wrong tree. He has a GX1.
Other people in that thread are saying that this lens and dome port combination is like other rectilinear lens with such a wide angle of view.
Disclaimer: Your new gear will not make you produce any better art than you already do.
https://vimeo.com/bocio/

#16 HDVdiver

HDVdiver

    Eagle Ray

  • Member
  • PipPipPip
  • 327 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Adelaide, Australia...Great White Shark country.
  • Interests:Dive,dive, dive...

Posted 30 August 2012 - 08:04 AM

Hi George,

On SB there is a thread in which they complain about being soft in a nauticam setup (gx1 + 6" dome). A user says that the lens is misplaced inside the port...
Here the thread:

http://www.scubaboar...-7-14-mm-4.html

I linked page 4 where discussion became hot Posted Image


Thanks for pointing that out Davide...certainly very interesting reading! :)

#17 kun1

kun1

    Wolf Eel

  • Member
  • PipPip
  • 120 posts

Posted 05 September 2012 - 12:36 PM

Magic filter can be fixed to the rear of the lens. I attached it with some cellatape in June and it's still there now. Easy.


#18 Ryan

Ryan

    Great White

  • Industry
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 1052 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Fort Lauderdale, FL

Posted 07 September 2012 - 04:19 AM

I was puzzled to recently read comments about it not being sharp since I've been very happy with my results. After a few comparative tests (converted Subal F4 housing+ Subal glass dome vs Nauticam GH2 + Nauticam dome port) I'm starting to think that it's uw optical performance depends considerably on the dome port used. It's MUCH better with a larger diameter dome port.



It is probably useful to differentiate between soft corners and other optical aberrations.

George, if this statement is related to corner sharpness it is a curious one. DP-FE (and 2, 3, 4) is thicker and has a smaller radius of curvature than the acrylic optic Nauticam uses for the 7-14 port. Assuming the same placement, these factors would result in softer corners.

I think 7-14 can perform quite well if you are careful to shoot an f-stop of around f11. I like the lens for blue water subjects, but would choose a fisheye for most close focus wide angle on a reef.

Keep in mind that there are few (or no?) 35mm equivalent 14mm lenses that have a good reputation for underwater photography (except possibly Sigma 8-16 on DX). Zooming to 8 or 9mm makes a big difference if shooting more open f-stops with subjects in the corners.

founder of Reef Photo & Video
manufacturer of Zen Domes

distributor of Nauticam in the Americas

 

n2theblue at reefphoto.com


#19 Davide DB

Davide DB

    Manta Ray

  • Member
  • PipPipPip
  • 417 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Rome, Italy

Posted 07 September 2012 - 05:46 AM

Keep in mind that there are few (or no?) 35mm equivalent 14mm lenses that have a good reputation for underwater photography (except possibly Sigma 8-16 on DX). Zooming to 8 or 9mm makes a big difference if shooting more open f-stops with subjects in the corners.

always speaking of video here...

I'm looking for a less extreme lens for deep wreck diving. 8mm fisheye is wonderful to catch the whole ship and the dramatic atmosphere but is a pita on details or inner spaces where, to cover the entire aov, you have to place your lights with surgical precision. We have only two viable options: lumix 7-14 or oly 9-18.
I never saw a uw video shot with the latter.
Going narrow (84 degrees) there is the wonderful Oly 12mm f2 but maybe it's too narrow.
Disclaimer: Your new gear will not make you produce any better art than you already do.
https://vimeo.com/bocio/

#20 HDVdiver

HDVdiver

    Eagle Ray

  • Member
  • PipPipPip
  • 327 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Adelaide, Australia...Great White Shark country.
  • Interests:Dive,dive, dive...

Posted 07 September 2012 - 12:14 PM

It is probably useful to differentiate between soft corners and other optical aberrations.

George, if this statement is related to corner sharpness it is a curious one. DP-FE (and 2, 3, 4) is thicker and has a smaller radius of curvature than the acrylic optic Nauticam uses for the 7-14 port. Assuming the same placement, these factors would result in softer corners.

I think 7-14 can perform quite well if you are careful to shoot an f-stop of around f11. I like the lens for blue water subjects, but would choose a fisheye for most close focus wide angle on a reef.

Keep in mind that there are few (or no?) 35mm equivalent 14mm lenses that have a good reputation for underwater photography (except possibly Sigma 8-16 on DX). Zooming to 8 or 9mm makes a big difference if shooting more open f-stops with subjects in the corners.



Not so. The 7-14mm Nauticam dome is 6 inches...the Subal FE3 is an 8 inch dome.

I do remember reading a good pool test done by another Wetpixel member of the IQ resulting from larger domes vs smaller, aggressive curvature domes. The larger domes gave what to me seemed a better optical result. I've found the same in my own tests of the several types of Subal domes that I have...including a new very aggressive "compact fisheye" port (FE100) that I bought to try with my favourite UW lens, the old Minolta 7.5mm MD.

There are many optical/physical factors that operate...indeed interact...in complex ways as the diameter of the dome glass changes; i.e nodal placement, virtual image(s) proximity, peripheral distortions, etc.

As far as I'm concerned the bigger the dome's diameter the better the optical performance.

The merits or otherwise of the Nauticam domes is all a bit irrelevant to me now...I've sold my Nauticam GH2 housing in anticipation of the new GH3 which should be announced in a few days time. What little information there is about the GH3 suggests it should be a superb camera...even without a hack (i.e. H.264 @ 70 mbps I-frame out of the box). It will be weather sealed and have a larger pro quality body...hence will not fit the current Nauticam GH2 housing. Posted Image

Edited by HDVdiver, 07 September 2012 - 12:44 PM.