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Problem with the back dial


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#1 kubestudio

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Posted 27 October 2011 - 03:49 PM

Hi,

Finally i started my conversion from the Nx90Z housing to fit a nikon d300 instead of the N90-F90 wich it was designed for..

so far so good...

i removed a lot of stuff in there, useless buttons on digital, as diafragma control, i had to take out the base plate, i had to polish some screw mounts on the aluminium of the body, but it fits..

i managed to get the d300 in there, and so far it looks good in it, even the lens seems to be centered, so should be allright.

I managed aswell to reconduct the shutter button, and now i can also fire the camera.

Im working now on the control of the back dial ( the one on the back of the camera, wich on nikon we use for the shutter speed, while the front one sets up the Apperture )

The problem is that N90/F90 had that control on top of the camera as a wheel, so the housing has a screw coming through that ends on a flat round plate, wich fits on the N90 wheel, and can move it from the Top of it.

The d300, has the screen on top of that control, so the control can only be moved from "behind" and not from the top.

So i was thinking to build something somehow more complicated, but i see the d300 housing from ikelite, uses a flat panel wich is suposed to move that dial

Picture:

but i can't understand how that control can move the dial of a d300.. it just doesnt makes sense..

can anyone who has a housing with a control from the back for the dial explain me how it works?? you rotate it and that makes the dial rotate aswell?? doesnt makes sense to me!

thanks

#2 rtrski

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Posted 27 October 2011 - 05:51 PM

Think of right-angled gears meshing: the control shaft is turned by the user, which rotates the pad at the end of it. The pad has its rim more or less in contact with the dial, so as the pad is moving essentially "horizontally" it can roll a dial that's properly aligned with it.

Should just be a matter of the right diameter and thickness of pad, unless the control wheel is very "clicky" (has a really solid detente type movement). Might need a more textured pad perhaps as well, or even a bevel on the pad.

I tried to find a picture for you but this is the best I can do for a conceptual illustration:

http://www.bing.com/...amp;FORM=IDFRIR

Current rig: Sony SLT-alpha55 in Ikelite housing, Sigma 105mm f2.8 DC Macro w/ Ike 5505.58 flat port or Sigma 8-16mm f/4.5-5.6 DC HSM behind UWCamStuff custom 5" mini-dome. Dual INON z240 Type IVs triggered with DS51 for TTL mimicry, or DS51 alone with home-made ringflash assy for macro.

 

Topside, unhoused: Sony SLT-alpha99, Sigma 150-500mm + 1.4TC (Saving for Sony 70-400 G2), Sigma 15mm diagonal fish, Sony 24-70mm f2.8 CZ, Tamron 180mm f2.8 Macro...all the gear and nary a clue...


#3 kubestudio

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Posted 28 October 2011 - 12:52 AM

that was my first idea, but i see how the housings work with this camera and they dont have this, they just have a flat surface...

Posted Image

as this or :

Posted Image

But i cannot understand how this flat rotating thing can move a ring on a 90 angle over it.

does the surface has some trimming?

What you showd on your photo was what i was planing to do, but if i can make it with a flat pannel will be much more simple to make.

thanks

#4 rtrski

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Posted 28 October 2011 - 06:25 AM

Are you talking about the larger round surface near the top left in your image? (I can imagine that contacting a rear thumb dial if the camera is against the pictured housing back wall, with the lens of the camer facing me).

If so, it looks like that whole round surface is tilted, which means the contact surface is at an angle to the dial it's engaging...same as if it was at a right angle, but 'beveled'. I'd guess the 'top' edge of that angled wheel would contact the actual 'back' edge of the dial in use.

Edited by rtrski, 28 October 2011 - 06:26 AM.

Current rig: Sony SLT-alpha55 in Ikelite housing, Sigma 105mm f2.8 DC Macro w/ Ike 5505.58 flat port or Sigma 8-16mm f/4.5-5.6 DC HSM behind UWCamStuff custom 5" mini-dome. Dual INON z240 Type IVs triggered with DS51 for TTL mimicry, or DS51 alone with home-made ringflash assy for macro.

 

Topside, unhoused: Sony SLT-alpha99, Sigma 150-500mm + 1.4TC (Saving for Sony 70-400 G2), Sigma 15mm diagonal fish, Sony 24-70mm f2.8 CZ, Tamron 180mm f2.8 Macro...all the gear and nary a clue...


#5 vividhousings

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Posted 01 November 2011 - 02:28 PM

Here's the principal sketch of the control, it will work in both cases, slanted or not. The contact surface on the control (black) should be the rubber pad. Of course, some pressure must be applied, either by simply pressing while turning, or by spring. I hope this helps a bit.

Attached Images

  • dial_control.jpg

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