I wanted to illustrate how moving lower and re-positioning strobes can affect how an underwater macro shot turns out. When you have a willing subject (i.e., a subject that doesn't move quickly), you have the opportunity to perfect your lighting. In the image on the left (one of my first attempts), the background is lit by light from my 2 strobes. In order to knock out the background, I repositioned my strobes so they were pointing *in*, towards my camera. This goes against everything underwater photographers are taught, but if the water is clear enough and your subject close enough, it will not create enough backscatter to be a problem. With strobes pointing more or less inward, you are using the outer falloff of each strobe to light your subject. No light reaches the background reef or sand. If you shoot with a fast shutter speed, low ISO, and small-ish aperture (in this case: 1/250s, f/9, ISO 160), your background is probably going to be completely black. For dramatic effect, get lower, so the shot is taken from the same level as the subject. A 45-degree viewfinder helps to make this possible; there is no reason to create neck problems by trying to use a 180-degree viewfinder.
How to get black backgrounds during the day, on sandy bottoms
#1
Posted 05 December 2011 - 11:05 PM
I wanted to illustrate how moving lower and re-positioning strobes can affect how an underwater macro shot turns out. When you have a willing subject (i.e., a subject that doesn't move quickly), you have the opportunity to perfect your lighting. In the image on the left (one of my first attempts), the background is lit by light from my 2 strobes. In order to knock out the background, I repositioned my strobes so they were pointing *in*, towards my camera. This goes against everything underwater photographers are taught, but if the water is clear enough and your subject close enough, it will not create enough backscatter to be a problem. With strobes pointing more or less inward, you are using the outer falloff of each strobe to light your subject. No light reaches the background reef or sand. If you shoot with a fast shutter speed, low ISO, and small-ish aperture (in this case: 1/250s, f/9, ISO 160), your background is probably going to be completely black. For dramatic effect, get lower, so the shot is taken from the same level as the subject. A 45-degree viewfinder helps to make this possible; there is no reason to create neck problems by trying to use a 180-degree viewfinder.
#2
Posted 06 December 2011 - 01:48 AM
Try these or similar ducting products
http://www.wickes.co...or/invt/713031/
http://www.wickes.co...le/invt/713040/
The round hose connector is a secure fit on a Z-240 and provides a mount for the rectangle ducting
HTH, Tim
· INON Z-240s & Sea & Sea YS-250 Pros
· SmallHD DP4 monitor & NA-DP4. Fisheye Aquavolt 3500s & 7000s
· Zen DP-100, DP-200 & DP-230
#3
Posted 06 December 2011 - 08:47 AM
Eric, very nice that is a non-intuitive but very useful technique. We need to send this to the guys submitting highly photoshopped pictures to the competitions.
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I wanted to illustrate how moving lower and re-positioning strobes can affect how an underwater macro shot turns out. When you have a willing subject (i.e., a subject that doesn't move quickly), you have the opportunity to perfect your lighting. In the image on the left (one of my first attempts), the background is lit by light from my 2 strobes. In order to knock out the background, I repositioned my strobes so they were pointing *in*, towards my camera. This goes against everything underwater photographers are taught, but if the water is clear enough and your subject close enough, it will not create enough backscatter to be a problem. With strobes pointing more or less inward, you are using the outer falloff of each strobe to light your subject. No light reaches the background reef or sand. If you shoot with a fast shutter speed, low ISO, and small-ish aperture (in this case: 1/250s, f/9, ISO 160), your background is probably going to be completely black. For dramatic effect, get lower, so the shot is taken from the same level as the subject. A 45-degree viewfinder helps to make this possible; there is no reason to create neck problems by trying to use a 180-degree viewfinder.
Bill
Canon 7d, 50D, Nauticam,Subal, Inon Ringflash, Athena Ringflash, Inon z240 etc.
www.blueviews.net
#4
Posted 06 December 2011 - 02:19 PM
Steve
www.lafcpug.org
Steve Douglas
www.worldfilmsandtravel.com
I have worked as an unpaid reviewer for the editing websites since 2002. Most all hardware and software is sent to me free of charge, however, in no way am I obligated to provide either positive or negative evaluations. Any suggestions I make regarding products are a result of my own, completely, personal opinions and experiences with said products.
#5
Posted 06 December 2011 - 06:38 PM
JA
#6
Posted 06 December 2011 - 07:38 PM
Wow ! that must be the most colorful nudi i've seen . Do you have the sp. name ?
Ceratosoma magnificum. I'm posting pictures one by one to my G+ album here: https://plus.google....821669481862465
#7
Posted 08 December 2011 - 08:10 AM
I saw the album , GREAT images as usual !!
#8
Posted 08 December 2011 - 08:53 AM
#9
Posted 11 December 2011 - 05:29 PM
Eric:
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I wanted to illustrate how moving lower and re-positioning strobes can affect how an underwater macro shot turns out. When you have a willing subject (i.e., a subject that doesn't move quickly), you have the opportunity to perfect your lighting. In the image on the left (one of my first attempts), the background is lit by light from my 2 strobes. In order to knock out the background, I repositioned my strobes so they were pointing *in*, towards my camera. This goes against everything underwater photographers are taught, but if the water is clear enough and your subject close enough, it will not create enough backscatter to be a problem. With strobes pointing more or less inward, you are using the outer falloff of each strobe to light your subject. No light reaches the background reef or sand. If you shoot with a fast shutter speed, low ISO, and small-ish aperture (in this case: 1/250s, f/9, ISO 160), your background is probably going to be completely black. For dramatic effect, get lower, so the shot is taken from the same level as the subject. A 45-degree viewfinder helps to make this possible; there is no reason to create neck problems by trying to use a 180-degree viewfinder.
How long are your strobe arms for doing this.
thanks
Bill
Canon 7d, 50D, Nauticam,Subal, Inon Ringflash, Athena Ringflash, Inon z240 etc.
www.blueviews.net
#10
Posted 07 January 2012 - 12:24 PM
Tom
