magic filter or strobe
Posted 18 December 2011 - 09:36 PM
Going on a cruise at end of Feb. to Naussau and plan on doing the stuart cove shark dive. Do I pack the strobe or just go with magic filter.
Is the water clear and the abient light at depth good during the feeding? Do i push the iso with the filter?? Using the D7000 with minidome
and 10-17mm tokina is the plan unless someone has better suggestions.
Some advice from the people who have done this dive would be greatly appreaciated.
By the way anyone know what thickness wetsuit for that time of year???
Posted 19 December 2011 - 02:34 AM
I haven't used Magic filters..I have used red filters- they need certain water/sunlight conditions to get the best out of them. (c.f. Alex- I think there are many threads in the forums on this subject)
I did this shark dive one year in June- it was a cloudy day- light levels were low- viz was good- but not perfect. Also depth was about 70 feet.
I didn't have a camera with me on that occasion...and wished I had!
I cant comment on your optical set up .....so the next bit of advice is with a grain of salt... if I was doing the dive again with my rig...well.....
If you were to try with a filter- then you will def. need to bump up the iso big time, and maybe set your camera to speed priority to keep your shark shots sharp as opposed to blurry.
Would suggest you do a trial run/dive with your gear first- and see what is best- BEFORE- you do the shark dive- that way you can be totally ready for the sharks and not have to worry about messing round with camera settings and magic filters.
Now with a strobe- well you dont have to worry as much.
If I was in your shoes- I would forget about filter and take my strobe- period.
I would rather have my lovely sharks lit up and sharp- and believe me- they will get close enough for you to do this- effortlessly.
Hope this helps- and enjoy your dive!
'All animals are equal, tho' some animals are more equal than others.'-Comrade Napoleon
'If wishes were fishes, we'd all cast nets'- Gurney Halleck
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Posted 19 December 2011 - 05:39 AM
Couple of other tips :-
Don't let the shutter stray slower than about 1/160 - unless you want blur that is - jack ISO if needed. It avoids disappointment later when you view and find the results soft.
If you end up playing with dolphins then start at 1/400 mininum (1/600 better) forget the strobes, go shutter priority auto focus and take lots of shots (big CF card) - faster shutter is better at the buggers really shift.
Good 5mm semi dry is about right at that time of the year, 3mm and you may suffer unless you are as hard as nails - I was there this year at that time.
10-17 is a good choice, make sure you get some good shots at the 10mm end - the sharks will be close enough.
Edited by PRC, 19 December 2011 - 05:43 AM.
Water Temp (just cold & Nasty)
Posted 19 December 2011 - 07:04 AM
Even if it is a sunny day the sun will not be directly over head.
All it will take is a average day to churn up the vis and an average day to lower the amount of light you have.
Posted 21 December 2011 - 12:15 PM
I would take both, so you are equiped for all conditions.
D300s, Seacam,S45, Nikon 60mm micro, Nikon VR 105mm micro, Nikon 12x24, Tokina 10/17fe, Seaflash 150ttl & Seacam flash arms