507 replies to this topic

[deepbluemd]

Excellent advice all round. As my second rig, and one the Mrs may be shooting (if she can pry it out of my fingers), I was thinking about a minimalist approach for weight and bulk as well. Discovered flying in and around the indopacific that airlines often weigh and charge you for carry on gear..so I think I'll order a hand strap for the mini version, but keep the flexitray for full performance mode.

cheers

Hugh

[Alex_Mustard]

I think that's the right call, Hugh.

Just to clarify - I don't have the tray. Cost was another consideration for me - as the price quickly builds up when putting these systems together. If money was no object I would have definitely got the tray at the 12-50mm port, but I had already spent enough on the OM-D and housing.

But I definitely recommend others use the tray as their main option for attaching strobes and get the 12-50mm port too - it is very versatile and optically impressive.

Alex

[guyharrisonphoto]

My 12-50 port is here!!! Just assembled it at Reef and took it for a spin in the store. This looks like the best, most versatile "general purpose" shooting lens imaginable. The angle of view at 24mm is quite wide, and the macro is very close, and very high magnification, much more so than any other kit zoom I have ever seen. It is a very complex set-up but operation is quite simple once you have it installed. Kudos to the folks at Nauticam for mastering this so-very versatile lens in their housing.

Hopefully will take it underwater this week, but in any event I will be in Curacao giving it a thorough workout (along with the 60 macro and 7-14 pany).

[Alex_Mustard]

Help! I can't update the firmware on my OM-D because it won't talk to my computer when connected via the USB. Anyone got a solution?

Alex

[troporobo]

This may or may not apply, but with mine there was a two stage process, requiring first an upgrade to an earlier version before the final upgrade. It might be worth checking the sequence depending on which firmware is already installed. Hope this helps

[Deep6]

Help! I can't update the firmware on my OM-D because it won't talk to my computer when connected via the USB. Anyone got a solution?

Alex

I though you had updated the camera's firmware to 1.5. I did on a Windows 7 box without any problems. I checked the the Olympus site and they do not have the latest version listed. http://www.olympusam...sp?id=1583&os=w

1.2 was a bomb. You want to go to 1.3 and then 1.5.

43rumors reports that there may be a new update in December.

Did you install the Oly software on your machine? The Oly updater s/w may be required.

Regards,
Bob

[Alex_Mustard]

I have the software on my computer - but when I plug in the camera it does not come up. :-(

My camera is stuck on Firmware 1.2 and I can't update it. V. annoying.

Alex

[Deep6]

Help! I can't update the firmware on my OM-D because it won't talk to my computer when connected via the USB. Anyone got a solution?

Alex

Ooo! I am working on my second cup and now I remember I did have a problem with the E-M5 communicating with the computer. It was a sequencing error. The problem is my memory or lack there of. I think starting the Oly program first and then plugging in the camera via USB may work.

Bob

[Deep6]

I have the software on my computer - but when I plug in the camera it does not come up. :-(

My camera is stuck on Firmware 1.2 and I can't update it. V. annoying.

Alex

Bollocks! I when from 1.1 to 1.3 and then 1.5. Oly recalled 1.2. Unfortunately, you can not revert to 1.1. In dpreview mentioned that Oly offered an update from 1.2 to ..., but I can not find the link.

Bob

[Alex_Mustard]

My camera came like this direct from Olympus - I've never been able to update it.

I can't believe it is a computer memory issue - I have a fair bit on my machines.

Alex

[calicant]

My camera came like this direct from Olympus - I've never been able to update it.

I can't believe it is a computer memory issue - I have a fair bit on my machines.

Alex

When you connect the usb cable to the E-M5 and see the "storage" option on the camera screen you must click "ok" on the camera for it to go into that mode. Then the updater software should discover the camera and find the latest firmware updates from Internet.

[deepbluemd]

My camera came like this direct from Olympus - I've never been able to update it.

I can't believe it is a computer memory issue - I have a fair bit on my machines.

Alex

Alex, this does not sound a memor issue or even like an Olympus version issue, but rather a windows driver problem. If the camera is plugged in, but the computer does not recognize the device, either there is no driver to establish a connection or the device is assigned to a port that is in conflict or unavailable. I would try redownloading and installing the driver, and any updates or patches from the Olympus website, and then try reconnecting. Here's the link.
http://www.olympusam...ads.asp?id=1583

Alternatively, I imagine there is a "hard reset" procedure for this camera which may (or may not) default to the original firmware version.

good luck.

Hugh

[Deep6]

Sorry I have not been more help. I think Hugh described the "communication" problem I had. If you get connected, hopefully the updater with point you to the right link. I don't see a 1.2, 1.4, 1.5 path for windows on the Oly site. There is one for the mac.

http://www.olympusam...sp?id=1583&os=m

Bob

Edited by Deep6, 28 November 2012 - 09:15 AM.

[tobyone]

Sorry just posted this in the comments, I used the om-5 in a blast freezer at -36º F for multiple 5 minute stints. When exiting the freezer to an ambient temp of 50º F, condensation on the camera would turn to Ice. I used insulated bags to let the camera temp equalize. It worked great the weather sealing is a real plus. I had a Nikon 200 sensor fail under the same conditions.
I have used the camera on two dive trips. Housed in the Nauticam with a 12-50 kit lens. Very nice results. One can assign a button function to shift the focal length from the 12mm wide end to the 50mm position. With a +4 diopter one can go from wide to macro with the same lens. Used this lens with the 6 in dome for the 7-14 pan.

[RogerC]

I don't have a 60mm yet. Just curious, anyone having any luck with ttl with macro? optical or electrical? P/A/S/M? what strobe?

thanks.

[Alex_Mustard]

I would think TTL would be fine. I have been shooting it on manual with my S-2000s, which are a pain to switch between manual and TTL underwater (for obvious reasons).

Alex

[guyharrisonphoto]

Hello, I have just been doing some tests with the 12-50 port and gear and though this info would be of interest.

"Regular zoom" mode. The operation of the power zoom is excellent. The zoom knob on the housing controls the zoom as you twist it against the spring-loaded power zoom ring on the lens. For most of the twist, you are in "slow zoom" mode (better for video), but at the very end of the twist, the lens jumps to "fast zoom" mode (better for photos). If you don't twist it all the way, it is easy to assume that you only have access to "slow zoom" but that is not the case. The twist to fast zoom takes only a second. Close focus at the wide end is under one foot. This is a great solution for general scenics. Maybe it is possible to get CFWA with a diopter, but I do not have one to try this with.

"Macro" mode. This is where it gets really amazing. The switch is instantaneous and, no matter where you were in the zoom range, the lens jumps to 43mm and the farthest focus possible in macro mode (one or two feet from the subject). You move closer to get higher magnification. I can fill the frame with a SD memory card. Measuring the card, it is 25x36mm. In 35mm terms this is "true macro" because it is 1:1 magnification. Thus, this lens magnification equals what is still, today, the maximum magnification of 35mm full frame macro lenses.

The working distance from the front of the port at this magnification is 2 inches. So, with a diopter, it might be possible to get even higher magnification although you will be getting very close. Not sure if it would work as I do not have a diopter.

I had ordered the flip adapter for this port, but the high magnification of the lens and the close working distance caused me to cancel that order. It is just not needed.

These tests were on land as I have not gotten out to dive with it yet, but I can't wait!!

For Roger C above, I have shot in optical TTL with 2 YS-D1s using the 12-50 in macro mode at 2" from the subject, and the TTL worked fine. Manual exposure mode at 1/250 shutter speed, but TTL exposure mode for the flash (set camera flash to "fill" and strobes to TTL). Also, the D1s give nice ratio lighting control even in TTL for creative shadows and textures even at that close distance.

Edited by guyharrisonphoto, 29 November 2012 - 07:10 AM.

[tdtaylor]

For Roger C above, I have shot in optical TTL with 2 YS-D1s using the 12-50 in macro mode at 2" from the subject, and the TTL worked fine. Manual exposure mode at 1/250 shutter speed, but TTL exposure mode for the flash (set camera flash to "fill" and strobes to TTL). Also, the D1s give nice ratio lighting control even in TTL for creative shadows and textures even at that close distance.

I have found that sTTL with the YS-D1 is not very reliable. I have 2 OMDs, tested both in the housing with several hundred shots, and another person has had the same issues. Settings same as above, as well as A and S settings on the camera. 3 or 4 shots will be correct exposure (with 4 to 5 seconds between with fresh batteries), then one frame will be completely overexposed. Later, one will be completely underexposed. About 70% were properly exposed. Tried it on three separate nights after disassembling and reassembling the setup each time, to make sure it was not some stupid error on my part. Macro or wide, same results. Maybe I am spoiled with the consistency of my full frame setup with electronic connections adn TTl exposure adjustments.

Also, we have found the 4 "adjustment settings" for TTL (empty circle, half, quarter and full) have very little effect on the output of the strobes, as well as trying to adjust the strobe through the camera compensation. Have also verified my strobes are not one of the ones being recalled for firmware updates.

With these issues I have been shooting in Manual with the strobes, with the camera set on 1/16 Manual flash setting. With these settings, the camera and strobes work fast, and in the little bit of time I have had with it since the battery life is greatly extended. Unfortunately, from now until March I won't be diving much (pool works and DiveCon training). Have to wait for the local diving to come back on line and a trip to Cayman Brac in March.


P.S.- I had issues on a Mac updating the software to 1.5 from 1.4. Computer didn't recognize the camera. I restarted both the computer then the camera, and if I remember correctly, with a couple of tries, I then started the software then plugged in the camera. Both update fine after that, but it took some tinkering with it to get the combination/timing correct.

[troporobo]

I don't have a 60mm yet. Just curious, anyone having any luck with ttl with macro? optical or electrical? P/A/S/M? what strobe?

Yes. I am having a good experience so far, using a pair of Inon S2000 strobes with the OM-D using an optical connection. Here is an example that is not quite macro but at maybe 4" working distance from the front of the port, camera in manual, strobes on sTTL. I have had only one weekend in the water with it yet, but am getting in the car in an hour to practice some more . . .

[Alex_Mustard]

P.S.- I had issues on a Mac updating the software to 1.5 from 1.4. Computer didn't recognize the camera. I restarted both the computer then the camera, and if I remember correctly, with a couple of tries, I then started the software then plugged in the camera. Both update fine after that, but it took some tinkering with it to get the combination/timing correct.

That may have been my problem. Alex