52 replies to this topic

[Ryan]

We sell both, and I can count on one hand the number of Inon warranty replacements we've issued over the past year.

[dangerzone]

I took my two, new D1s to Cozumel for three weeks of intensive diving. One of the two units functioned property, the other had issues. Like Damselfish (above), the "bad" strobe would work before a dive with freshly charged batteries, but would sometimes start flashing red/green or green/green for no reason. The same "bad" strobe would also not fire in TTL when used with the "good" strobe; if I covered the "good" strobe I could get the "bad" one to fire...very strange. As soon as I returned to the States, I took the questionable strobe back to the store where I bought it and they sent it back to Sea and Sea for R/R. It's been two weeks...

I shot mostly with the strobes in manual mode because of the TTL problems I was having with the one.

I think the issue is directly related to being in TTL mode, but I can't confirm it. What you're describing sort of validates my results, and I did notice a few times that with a lot of natural light at shallow depths that the wonky strobe(s) would fire.

It seems like this is a case of early-adopter syndrome, and all of the kinks haven't been worked out.

[Jak Crow]

Same issues here with the YS-D1's. I'll jump in and have one or both strobes start flashing red/green with fresh batteries, and it's completely random as to when it happens. Sometimes I can get a whole dive, maybe even two, with no problems. Have to start the replacement process, but unfortunately I'm locked in for Lembeh and Ambon over the next two weeks with strobes that are completely haywire.

Have you experienced the problem in all strobe operating modes - manual, manual for pre-flash, and TTL?

This wasn't a mode issue. The first strobe had a short, the 2nd would flash red/green after on a few shots then stop working.

I took my two, new D1s to Cozumel for three weeks of intensive diving. One of the two units functioned property, the other had issues. Like Damselfish (above), the "bad" strobe would work before a dive with freshly charged batteries, but would sometimes start flashing red/green or green/green for no reason. The same "bad" strobe would also not fire in TTL when used with the "good" strobe; if I covered the "good" strobe I could get the "bad" one to fire...very strange. As soon as I returned to the States, I took the questionable strobe back to the store where I bought it and they sent it back to Sea and Sea for R/R. It's been two weeks...

I shot mostly with the strobes in manual mode because of the TTL problems I was having with the one.

Both of you have defective units. You will need to replace them.

[dangerzone]

You're definitely correct that they are defective. No doubt about it. And as soon as I can take them back, I will.

Mine appear to be having issues specifically with TTL (short), and the timing circuit. With some help from Simon at NAD-Lembeh we've got them working for the moment in manual mode. In manual though, if I try to go above +.07, all of my pictures will be black. They both fire, but they're not in sync. As long as I stay at +.07 or below, everything works fine but I don't have the ability to push them any higher. I haven't had the red/green low battery indicator that I get when in TTL mode since making the change.

[Alastair]

Where can i get my Inon's serviced and updated. And can i update my Z-220 to a Z-240?

[dangerzone]

Just got word back from Scubacam that Sea & Sea is going to replace both of my defective strobes. Just have to bring the defective ones back to Scubacam and make the swap.

[jlyle]

Sea and Sea replaced my strobe. I took my rig in the water yesterday and the strobes are both working the way they should. I shot in manual mode as I was doing WA. I haven't had the time to play with the ttl settings.

My only complaint with Sea and Sea, it took three weeks to get the strobe replaced. I dive nearly every weekend and had to improvise with an old Ike DS-125 with an EV controller.

I like the strobes. More later.

Edited by jlyle, 17 September 2012 - 05:59 AM.

[jplaurel]

Just spent 15 days diving the YS-D1s with my Olympus OMD and Nauticam housing. The D1s were an excellent match and worked flawlessly in TTL mode with the EM-5. Coverage is better than the Inon Z240s, which my wife was using. Power is supposed to be close, but subjectively the D1s seem to have a little more. They had just barely enough power for sunballs with large fans. The next step is the YS-250, which is just too big to carry around for me.

Only downside with optical TTL is the slight shutter trigger delay, but the perfect exposures more than made up for it in most cases. The D1s were also easy to use in manual mode with the OMD set to 1/64th flash power mode. Virtually instant recycling and no shutter delay.

[JohnnyQuest]

I purchased two YS-D1s in July 2012 and took them to the Sea of Cortez in September. Both became inoperative (flashed the red-green "code") within 1 or 2 dives. Upon returning home, they were replaced with two new units (they were shipped in early October). The original two had SNs within the recall range. I was told, "There have been no problems with any of the units that were sold after the recall and outside that serial number range." I was on the Sundancer II in Belize last week where I got to try the replacement strobes for the first time UW. On the first dive, both of my replacement units malfunctioned exactly as the first trwo did and were completely inoperative! I did subsequent dives with three other brands of fully charged batteries; however, the problem always occurred. So this makes four strobes and two consecutive dive trips with a lot of really expensive UW camera gear and no photos!

I'd really like to hear if other YS-D1 owners are still having issues. Since my "luck" with them is 0 for 4, this has to be a widespread issue, or I really need to buy lottery tickets. Thanks.

[ajblanckley]

I had exactly the same issue, but only when trying to use TTL. After someone suggested shooting in manual at all times the red/green flashing went away and the strobes would last for a few dives (they were generally fine for 3 or 4 dives per day). It didn't solve the defect, but at least I could continue shooting. I was told that the strobes needed a firmware update and am currently waiting for them to come back from S&S.

[JohnnyQuest]

I had exactly the same issue, but only when trying to use TTL. After someone suggested shooting in manual at all times the red/green flashing went away and the strobes would last for a few dives (they were generally fine for 3 or 4 dives per day). It didn't solve the defect, but at least I could continue shooting. I was told that the strobes needed a firmware update and am currently waiting for them to come back from S&S.

Thanks. Can you tell me if yours were outside the SN range of the recall? Mine were outside the range by 200. Has anyone else had the reg/green flash issue with strobes outside the recall range?

[ajblanckley]

Unfortunately I didn't write down the serial numbers before sending them off. I assumed they were part of the dodgy lot because they didn't work.

Edited by ajblanckley, 15 January 2013 - 01:21 PM.

[adamhanlon]

Hi all,

Reliability apart, I have both YS-D1s and Z-240s here and plan to do a back to back review very soon.

I'll post it on the front page, so please stay tuned.

All the best

Adam

[dangerzone]

I was about to reply yesterday to say that my replacement D1's have had no issues, until one of them blew a flash tube on my first dive this morning. 3 failures in 6 months is not acceptable Alex Mustard was kind enough to loan me a pair of 240's for the next dive, and honestly, 75 minutes was enough to convince me to switch.

[Scuba_SI]

Christian, have you considered that Alex's strobes might have magic fairy dust in them?

I have YS 250's, D1's, and YS110A's.

However in a few weeks i will also be getting some Inons. I have had the flashing red / green light only once with new batteries, but once i changed to a different set it was ok.

[dangerzone]

Christian, have you considered that Alex's strobes might have magic fairy dust in them?

I have YS 250's, D1's, and YS110A's.

However in a few weeks i will also be getting some Inons. I have had the flashing red / green light only once with new batteries, but once i changed to a different set it was ok.

Simon - I wouldn't be surprised if they do, after seeing his shots from the past few days. Mind blowing!

[nortoda1]

I purchased 2 x Z240s and a sea and sea sync type N today from Japan. I have a sea and sea MDX300. However, now I have doubts after seeing on a UK distributor website that Z240s should not be used with a dual sync cord as it will cause nonrepairable damage to the strobes. Should I get YS D1s???

[nortoda1]

do any of you shoot Z240s on a dual sync?

[downunder]

I have never heard of this problem, while I shoot single sync cords, I have had friends shoot with the dual and do no recall they had any issues with their inons

[nortoda1]

Thanks Downunder. I've stuck with ordering the inon's. I contacted 2 v. big US retailers (one is the service centre for Inon) and also contacted Sea and sea, none of them heard of this issue or belive it to be one. Looks like this well know UK retailer have their wires crossed :-).

Edited by nortoda1, 17 January 2013 - 01:26 AM.