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Can I use Inon O-ring grease on Sea&Sea sync cord?

o-ring grease inon sea&sea

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#1 underwaterphotographer

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Posted 05 July 2012 - 03:21 AM

The reason why I ask is that I don’t have the Sea&Sea specific O-ring grease. The Inon O-rings are yellow whereas the Sea&Sea are blue.

#2 MortenHansen

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Posted 05 July 2012 - 04:04 AM

Hi there,

There should be no problem using grease of different brands on different o-rings. The purpose of the grease is simply to make sure the silicone o-ring doesn't become hard and dried out.

-Morten

#3 marcw

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Posted 05 July 2012 - 05:03 AM

i thought the silicon was so the o-ring does not bind when closing the case.

#4 MortenHansen

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Posted 05 July 2012 - 05:12 AM

I mean, I am by no means an expert, can be that there is another purpose, but I don't understand exactly what you mean by "bind"?

-Morten

#5 underwaterphotographer

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Posted 05 July 2012 - 05:13 AM

I’ve understood that using the wrong type of grease might deform the O-ring.

#6 marcw

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Posted 05 July 2012 - 05:19 AM

By "bind" i meant when you close the case, the o-ring should not pinched between 2 parts of the case, deforming the o-ring so the water can enter.

#7 MortenHansen

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Posted 05 July 2012 - 05:30 AM

I know this is not the same, but I have serviced quite a few (+100) regulators, and used many different types of silicone grease on the same Scubapro o-rings, however I never had problems with leaking 1'st stages or deformed o-rings and here we are talking about a pressure equal of 2000m depth.
For sure it can be different with a camera o-ring, maybe one of the super-geeks out there have something to say about it?

-Morten

#8 marcw

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Posted 05 July 2012 - 05:41 AM

bind

I know this is not the same, but I have serviced quite a few (+100) regulators, and used many different types of silicone grease on the same Scubapro o-rings, however I never had problems with leaking 1'st stages or deformed o-rings and here we are talking about a pressure equal of 2000m depth.
For sure it can be different with a camera o-ring, maybe one of the super-geeks out there have something to say about it?

-Morten


I use different silicone and i do not see the difference. My point was what silicone was for, not if it makes a difference(excuse me for not making that clear). I use Sea&Sea, INON, and Triton with all my gear.

The difference between the camera and a reg is that the reg is put together once and not again until the next service(hopefully). A camera case is opened and closed on every dive or 2 to change the batteries. On my inon strobes, I have had it when i did not use enough silicon(should always be used sparingly) and the friction caused the o-ring to get caught between cap and the strobe and not have a good seal. You are able to see this on the inon strobe very well before you jump in.

#9 MortenHansen

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Posted 05 July 2012 - 05:48 AM

Good point- I have Inon strobes myself and as you I do use a little extra silicone grease on them to make sure the o-rings don't 'bind' :)

I guess it depends on which o-rings we are talking, I think for the main housing o-ring there will not be a risk of 'binding' since its a squeeze-fit between o-ring and a straight surface, at least on my Aquatica.

-Morten

#10 marcw

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Posted 05 July 2012 - 05:50 AM

Good point- I have Inon strobes myself and as you I do use a little extra silicone grease on them to make sure the o-rings don't 'bind' Posted Image

I guess it depends on which o-rings we are talking, I think for the main housing o-ring there will not be a risk of 'binding' since its a squeeze-fit between o-ring and a straight surface, at least on my Aquatica.

-Morten


So i guess you have seen the same o-ring U shaped snag as me. :-)

#11 Aquapaul

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Posted 05 July 2012 - 06:29 AM

My owners manual for my Sea & Sea strobes says to only use Sea & Sea grease with the blue cap for blue o-rings. I have this caution/ warning in the box with my strobe.

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#12 bvanant

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Posted 05 July 2012 - 10:03 AM

This is a common question with NO simple answer. The little yellow S&S tubes contain fluorosilicone not simple silicone grease and using the wrong grease can cause o-rings to swell and change shape and maybe ultimately leak. There are greases (Tribolube and Christolube) that are safe for all types of o-rings (silicone, buna/nitrile/viton) so you might try them. Otherwise it costs maybe $10 for the right grease that you will lose before you empty the tube. That being said, since the Inon grease is for the Inon silicone o-rings, it should be fine for the S&S rings.

Bill

Edited by bvanant, 05 July 2012 - 10:04 AM.

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#13 eyu

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Posted 05 July 2012 - 11:26 AM

I have been using Tribolube 71 for all my o-rings for the last 4+ years without problems. I use it on my black Subal, red Olympus, yellow Inon and blue Sea & Sea o-rings, I got tired of using a specific silicone grease for each different type of o-ring.
The colored o-rings will swell if you use the wrong grease.

A side note, Christo-Lube MCG 111 and Tribolube 71 are not water soluble and are inert.

Elmer

Edited by eyu, 05 July 2012 - 11:27 AM.

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#14 MortenHansen

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Posted 05 July 2012 - 02:46 PM

Thanks bvanant for the clariification, I'm really surprised to hear that it actually makes a difference! I always thought that it was simply the producers trying to sell their own stuff :)

I always use the standard trident grease, on inon strobes and aquatica housing, would this cause any issues?
And can anyone tell me what the aquatica o-rings are actually made of?

-Morten

#15 bvanant

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Posted 05 July 2012 - 05:01 PM

I don't have an aquatica o-ring to check, but I suspect they are buna-n/nitrile but I am sure that Jean could tell us. I too use Tribolube 71 or 66 depending on what kind of o-ring. I can tell you for sure that the "wrong" grease can lead to bad outcomes, we make implantable medical devices; some with o-rings and the wrong lubricant can really cause them to not work very well. I think I would avoid the Trident grease on my gear, a tube of Tribolube costs maybe $25 or so and for a multi-thousand dollar system it is a prudent investment IMHO.

Bill

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#16 MortenHansen

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Posted 06 July 2012 - 04:04 AM

Thanks again Bill, I still have a two of the little grease canisters from Aquatica, I will use them until I find out what the o-rings are made off/what type of grease can be used, maybe Jean can shed some light on the subject? Posted Image

For sure I have no problem spending the little extra money for some tribolube- will have to get some guests to bring it out though, not that many options of silicone grease in Bali! Posted Image

-Morten

Edited by MortenHansen, 06 July 2012 - 04:05 AM.


#17 MortenHansen

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Posted 06 July 2012 - 05:09 AM

Just cleaned all my o-rings and gave them a fresh layer of "aquatica grease", packed them in zip lock bags and now I think I'll be able to sleep well tonight!

#18 acuevas

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Posted 06 July 2012 - 06:08 AM

Another vote for Tribolub 71, I've been using it for more than 4 years including my inon orings without problems.
Some might say that it's more expensive but one tube will last forever.
Regards
Andres Cuevas


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#19 jcclink

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Posted 06 July 2012 - 06:45 AM

Use buna-n o-rings (the black ones) which is what most housing are assembled with, & a good quality silicone grease. (My S&S strobes have buna o-rings.) Don't have to worry about what o-ring needs what type of grease. A tube of silicone grease is cheap & will last forever. Too many colors & little tubes of vendor supplied grease to worry about. Keep it simple.

Edited by jcclink, 06 July 2012 - 06:47 AM.

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#20 bvanant

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Posted 06 July 2012 - 11:19 AM

Thanks again Bill, I still have a two of the little grease canisters from Aquatica, I will use them until I find out what the o-rings are made off/what type of grease can be used, maybe Jean can shed some light on the subject? Posted Image

For sure I have no problem spending the little extra money for some tribolube- will have to get some guests to bring it out though, not that many options of silicone grease in Bali! Posted Image

-Morten

Let me know your address, we are coming to Bali in a few weeks, I will bring you some tribolube to play with.
Bill

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