
Lens choice for Socorro
#1
Posted 05 October 2012 - 10:55 PM
i wonder what lenses to bring.
I use a D90, and I have the Sigma 17-70, and Tokina 10-17
My question is, Will I find any use for the 17-70 ? is the 10-17 enough for the whole trip, or do I need a new lens, like the Nikon 12-24 ?
I dont expect I need any macro lens ?
Thanks
Steen
#2
Posted 06 October 2012 - 09:02 AM
Here's a couple of shots for comparison:
17-70:

Manta Eye.2 by Pixel Letch, on Flickr
10-17:

Manta Head shot by Pixel Letch, on Flickr
Jack
Jack Connick
Optical Ocean Sales.com
Nauticam, Subal, Sea & Sea, Olympus, Seacam, Gates, Ikelite, Zen, Fix, 10Bar, Kraken, Light & Motion, iTorch/I-DAS & Fantasea Line
Cameras, Housings, Strobes, Arms, Trays & Accessories. System Packages. Photo Expeditions.
Blog & Gallery: Optical Ocean Sales Blog - Flickr Galleries: Optical Ocean on Flickr
#3
Posted 07 October 2012 - 01:58 AM
Nice photos, especially the first one.
Steen
#4
Posted 07 October 2012 - 05:48 AM

At a pinch, and unless the visibility is spectacular, you could do very nicely with just the Tokina 10-17mm.

I shot everything with a Nikon 10.5mm and a teleconverter when I was in the Revillagigedos Is.

I dived from Solmar V. It's a great place...

Edited by tdpriest, 07 October 2012 - 05:50 AM.
#5
Posted 07 October 2012 - 06:33 AM
www.nauticamuk.com
www.uwvisions.com
Exclusive official importer of Nauticam products into the UK and Ireland
#6
Posted 07 October 2012 - 07:38 AM
#7
Posted 07 October 2012 - 12:00 PM
Jack
Jack Connick
Optical Ocean Sales.com
Nauticam, Subal, Sea & Sea, Olympus, Seacam, Gates, Ikelite, Zen, Fix, 10Bar, Kraken, Light & Motion, iTorch/I-DAS & Fantasea Line
Cameras, Housings, Strobes, Arms, Trays & Accessories. System Packages. Photo Expeditions.
Blog & Gallery: Optical Ocean Sales Blog - Flickr Galleries: Optical Ocean on Flickr
#8
Posted 07 October 2012 - 03:47 PM
...... You definately do not want the 12-24, doesn't focus that close.
Jack
Hi Jack...could you explain the comment about the 12-24 please? Granted, it has other issues (sharp corners, etc) but It focuses to 1 foot and I would think with the shots that you showed (large animals) that is way more than enough? Am headed there in 2014....and am just curious....
thx
www.nc-wreckdiving.com
facebook: http://www.facebook....DC/108292407671
youtube channel: http://www.youtube.c...r/ncwreckdiving
#9
Posted 07 October 2012 - 03:51 PM
what dome/housing were you using with your 10.5mm/teleconverter combination?
thx
www.nc-wreckdiving.com
facebook: http://www.facebook....DC/108292407671
youtube channel: http://www.youtube.c...r/ncwreckdiving
#10
Posted 07 October 2012 - 04:02 PM
Jack
Jack Connick
Optical Ocean Sales.com
Nauticam, Subal, Sea & Sea, Olympus, Seacam, Gates, Ikelite, Zen, Fix, 10Bar, Kraken, Light & Motion, iTorch/I-DAS & Fantasea Line
Cameras, Housings, Strobes, Arms, Trays & Accessories. System Packages. Photo Expeditions.
Blog & Gallery: Optical Ocean Sales Blog - Flickr Galleries: Optical Ocean on Flickr
#11
Posted 08 October 2012 - 07:53 AM
Hi Jack...could you explain the comment about the 12-24 please? Granted, it has other issues (sharp corners, etc) but It focuses to 1 foot and I would think with the shots that you showed (large animals) that is way more than enough? Am headed there in 2014....and am just curious....
thx
I use to use the Nikkor 12-24 with a +4 diopter in a 170 mm port. I now use the Tonk 10-17 w & w/o 1.4x TC in a 4.33" dome (The Bare Dome). Much better IMHO.
Bob
Edited by Deep6, 08 October 2012 - 07:53 AM.
Carpe carp - Seize the carp
#12
Posted 08 October 2012 - 08:21 AM
S&S YS110's & YS27's
#13
Posted 08 October 2012 - 09:30 AM
I love the lens above water, just not my choice uw. YMMV.
Jack
Jack Connick
Optical Ocean Sales.com
Nauticam, Subal, Sea & Sea, Olympus, Seacam, Gates, Ikelite, Zen, Fix, 10Bar, Kraken, Light & Motion, iTorch/I-DAS & Fantasea Line
Cameras, Housings, Strobes, Arms, Trays & Accessories. System Packages. Photo Expeditions.
Blog & Gallery: Optical Ocean Sales Blog - Flickr Galleries: Optical Ocean on Flickr
#14
Posted 08 October 2012 - 07:18 PM
www.nc-wreckdiving.com
facebook: http://www.facebook....DC/108292407671
youtube channel: http://www.youtube.c...r/ncwreckdiving
#15
Posted 09 October 2012 - 12:46 AM
thx for the answers on the 12-24 everyone!
if you're thinking of getting a rectilinear WA lens, i'd suggest to forget about the Nikon 12-24 and get the 10-24 (also Nikon) instead. It focusses closer (no need for diopters), has a bigger range and in the range from 12-24 it's supposed to be as sharp as the 12-24 mm f/4.0. It's also cheaper and slightly lighter. Only drawback is that it's not a f/4.0 over the full range but f/3.5-4.5 (is that a drawback actually??).
cheers, Udo
www.udovandongen.com
Nikon D800, D800E, Hugyfot housing, 15 mm fisheye, 16-35 mm WA, 105mm VR Macro, 60 mm Macro, Subsee +5 an +10 wet diopters, Inon Z-240 strobes (3x), Inon float arms, Nauticam armclamps, Bigblue and Inon focus lights.
#16
Posted 04 November 2013 - 02:41 PM
Can someone elaborate more on this topic please? I have a Canon 7D with a 10-17 and a 4" mini-dome, and I'm heading to Socorro at the end of January. I'm expecting that the 10-17 alone will be fine for manta since they typically get so close, but for the sharks and whales (if I'm so lucky), I'm wondering if I should pick up a 1.4 TC since I don't expect to get as close. I get the impression that the TC won't simply magnify by 1.4, but I'm not sure why and waht it will exactly do. Can you explain further and give me a recommendation? Thanks.
#17
Posted 04 November 2013 - 03:49 PM
I have been to the Socorro Islands and found the 10-17 to be ideal for most circumstances. I am of the opinion that if the shark is too far away it's probably not worth taking a pic in the first place. They may not come as close as in the Bahamas but you may get a few passes. The Mantas came close enough that I had to duck my head several times. The more you seem to ignore the more curious they get.
Tom
#18
Posted 04 November 2013 - 04:41 PM
Thanks Tom. That's pretty much what I was thinking, but the idea of being able to shoot humpbacks....they'd be worth shooting regardless (I shot video in Tonga). But I don't know if it's worth it, I'll probably just stick with the 10-17 and hope any big stuff finds me attractive.
Edited by JohnnyQuest, 04 November 2013 - 04:42 PM.
#19
Posted 05 November 2013 - 02:01 PM
I went on the Nautilus Explorer trip. I don't think I removed my 16-35mm the entire time. Maybe only for the Tokina 10-17mm.
http://www.matthewramaley.com
#20
Posted 05 November 2013 - 02:09 PM
One other thing. The challenge I gave myself was shooting a manta and getting the top/bottom lighitng balanced on a frontal shot. Near the surface, the sunlight will dapple their back beautifully, but the underbelly can be dark so I spent some time trying to get my strobes to fire up from beneath the dome at just the right power. I did this with white pointers in South Australia.
You will have mantas for hours, so you can get plenty of practice. Once I got the lighting balanced, I never got one of the animals to swim directly at me because they start to ascend from a few meteres out to fly over your head. The closer to the surface you are, the further out they start their ascent glide path.
Good luck!
Matt
http://www.matthewramaley.com