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Underwater settings for the Olympus OM-D E-M5


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#41 scubasnap

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Posted 28 November 2013 - 01:27 PM

Hello, I know this is a bit off topic but I was wondering if there was any experience with the OMD EM-1 and whether the aforementioned settings would be a good way to start with that camera.  I just purchased one of these and am short listed for the Nauticam housing.  Since it is such a new camera there is very little out there online as to advice on where to start.  

 

Thanks for any advice



#42 KarenW

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Posted 28 November 2013 - 08:48 PM

Hi all.. I have a couple of questions regarding the use of the Inon Z240's with the Nauticam / OM-D EM-5

 

1)   "advance cancel circuit switch".  Should that be in the up or down position when using optical fibre connection?

 

2)    what is the purpose of the +1/4 EV compensation switch on the front?

 

I've learnt one thing…. "there is never a dumb question… it only becomes dumb when you don't ask…"  :unsure:  :dunno:

 

Thanks for your patience - Karen



#43 deepbluemd

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Posted 29 November 2013 - 02:42 AM

Hello, I know this is a bit off topic but I was wondering if there was any experience with the OMD EM-1 and whether the aforementioned settings would be a good way to start with that camera.  I just purchased one of these and am short listed for the Nauticam housing.  Since it is such a new camera there is very little out there online as to advice on where to start.  

 

Thanks for any advice

I also picked up the EM-1 as soon as it came out and am eagerly awaiting the new Nauticam housing (hopefully before my xmas trip to Roatan).  Anyway, having both the EM-5 and the EM-1 I can tell you this:  they are extremely similar in terms of the menus on the cameras, and they are quite different in terms of the functional buttons/dials/lever configurations on the bodies.  But in terms of your question, yes, the menus look and act nearly the same in every important way, and I would use the settings recommended herein as a starting place for UW.

 

From an ergonomic layout, the EM-1 has moved the on/off switch up to the camera left on top, and added dual functionality to this for HDR/AF/Metering and shutter release controls. The EM-1 has also added two new controls to the front right (of the lens) which can be customized to whatever you want.  Olympus has also added a 2-position lever to the camera back just to the right of the EVF which controls the AEL as a button, but the lever also toggles controls on top of the on/off switch or whatever you customize it to do.   The Fn1 & 2 buttons and record buttons all exist but are physically spread out a little differently and improve your ability to make rapid adjustments.  I just returned from a week in Peru where I shot 2000 photos with this camera.  I feel that the EM-1 is a solid step up from the EM-5 in every way, but for me, ergonomic design and button layout is smart and intuititive.  I can make changes rapidly without ever taking my eye from the gorgeous viewfinder.(Most of the shots in this collection were with the EM-1 and 40-150 lens- )

 

good lucky, happy shooting

 

HMS



#44 barilhu

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Posted 29 November 2013 - 06:20 AM

Hi all.. I have a couple of questions regarding the use of the Inon Z240's with the Nauticam / OM-D EM-5

 

1)   "advance cancel circuit switch".  Should that be in the up or down position when using optical fibre connection?

 

2)    what is the purpose of the +1/4 EV compensation switch on the front?

 

I've learnt one thing…. "there is never a dumb question… it only becomes dumb when you don't ask…"  :unsure:  :dunno:

 

Thanks for your patience - Karen

 

 

1) the cancel circuit switch is only active with electrical connection. No influence on optical connection.

 

2) The +1/4 is use in strobe on manual setting to slightly increase  brightness in the resulting photo.

 

I use 2 Z240 with my OMD  they work great!!



#45 Jock

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Posted 29 November 2013 - 01:47 PM

Hi all.. I have a couple of questions regarding the use of the Inon Z240's with the Nauticam / OM-D EM-5

 

1)   "advance cancel circuit switch".  Should that be in the up or down position when using optical fibre connection?

 

2)    what is the purpose of the +1/4 EV compensation switch on the front?

 

I've learnt one thing…. "there is never a dumb question… it only becomes dumb when you don't ask…"  :unsure:  :dunno:

 

Thanks for your patience - Karen

 

Hi Karen,

 

You can find infos here

http://www.inon.jp/p...robe2012-en.pdf

and here

http://reefphoto.com/kb.php?id=7

 

My understanding - which is contrary to what "barilhu" says - is:

 

When you shoot "STTL" with your Inon, you will need to have the button in the "Up/Out" position, when you shoot manual, you need to push it in.

("If your camera does not fire a pre-flash, ACC must be disabled.") - when you shoot "Inon manual", you will set your internal OM-D strobe to "manual" and 1/64 power (which saves camera battery power and is enough to trigger the Inon), and no preflash is emitted.

 

The switch in the front is for use with "Auto" - which you normally do NOT use with you rOM-D, so forget it. (The strobe and not the camera will measure the amount of light that is reflected from the subject and will shut off when enough light has arrived. The plus 1/4 switch will cut down the amount of light that reaches the strobe sensor, so the strobe burns longer)

 

Greetings, 

 

Jock


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#46 KarenW

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Posted 30 November 2013 - 01:47 AM

 

Hi Karen,

 

You can find infos here

http://www.inon.jp/p...robe2012-en.pdf

and here

http://reefphoto.com/kb.php?id=7

 

My understanding - which is contrary to what "barilhu" says - is:

 

When you shoot "STTL" with your Inon, you will need to have the button in the "Up/Out" position, when you shoot manual, you need to push it in.

("If your camera does not fire a pre-flash, ACC must be disabled.") - when you shoot "Inon manual", you will set your internal OM-D strobe to "manual" and 1/64 power (which saves camera battery power and is enough to trigger the Inon), and no preflash is emitted.

 

The switch in the front is for use with "Auto" - which you normally do NOT use with you rOM-D, so forget it. (The strobe and not the camera will measure the amount of light that is reflected from the subject and will shut off when enough light has arrived. The plus 1/4 switch will cut down the amount of light that reaches the strobe sensor, so the strobe burns longer)

 

Greetings, 

 

Jock

Thank you so much Jock.  I've had the strobes for a few years and was rather embarrassed to ask the question.  Glad I did :)

 

99% of the time I use the strobes manually and I have already set up my EM-5 as per the instructions.  Now I just have to wait for the housing :)

 

Cheers - Karen



#47 watboy

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Posted 01 December 2013 - 04:51 AM

I'm pretty sure its the other way

in STTL mode, the position of the magnet/ACC switch doesn't matter

in Manual or External Auto mode, ACC must be canceled by pushing the switch in for the EM5. See below link for list of camera and ACC settings. The EM5 is listed with the DSLRs toward the bottom.

 

http://www.inon.jp/p...patibility.html

 

 

 

Thank you so much Jock.  I've had the strobes for a few years and was rather embarrassed to ask the question.  Glad I did :)

 

99% of the time I use the strobes manually and I have already set up my EM-5 as per the instructions.  Now I just have to wait for the housing :)

 

Cheers - Karen


Edited by watboy, 01 December 2013 - 05:01 AM.


#48 Jock

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Posted 01 December 2013 - 11:26 AM

"I'm pretty sure its the other way

in STTL mode, the position of the magnet/ACC switch doesn't matter"

 

Never tested it, but yes, the Reefphoto article says that it is for external auto and manaul, so probably you are right. Did you check?

 

"in Manual or External Auto mode, ACC must be canceled by pushing the switch in for the EM5. See below link for list of camera and ACC settings. The EM5 is listed with the DSLRs toward the bottom."

 

That's what I wrote!


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#49 Phil Rudin

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Posted 01 December 2013 - 01:22 PM

With all of the Olympus cameras DSLR or M43 it makes no difference if the switch is in or out as long as you are using a fiber optic cord. S-TTL, S-TTL low, Auto, Manual with controller or Full.

 

When you need the switch to be pushed in and locked is when you are using a hard wired cable like the Inon to Nikonos sync cord with the strobe and a bulkhead connector.



#50 conchyjoe

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Posted 29 January 2014 - 11:34 AM

Can anyone comment on the changes in Firmware version 2.0? It looks like the focus can be narrowed to 5X7. How do you set it? Is it a good thing or bad? I am mainly looking for feedback based on shooting macro.

 

Thanks!


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Olympus E-620 - PT-E06 - 50mm Zuiko - Athena 50mm Port - Dual Inon Z240-3 - ULCS system
Learned a LOT from folks on the internet, Thanks!

#51 Jock

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Posted 29 January 2014 - 01:20 PM

Hi conchyjoe,

 

I think most users have been using the small field for UW exclusively, available until now via a "workaround" described by coroander. 

 

I just updated my firmware, and now the setting is easy to access: You need to make the grid with the larde AF areas visible on your monitor, then press "info" and choose your preferred AF field with the <up> and/or <down> buttons. That's it!

 

I am also very happy to see (at least theoretically, will have to make a field test) the new "low ISO" setting. When shooting macro, I sometimes like to use a wide open aperture, so I can isolate a subject (everything behind and in front of it is blurry). 

 

In bright conditions with ISO 200 there often is so much light that the strobe fires at very low power, and as a result the red color does not show. With my old Nikonos RS and Velvia 50 slide film it was much easier, and ISO 100 with the E M5 is a step into this direction. One f/stop makes at least a little difference.

 

Picture quality? Well I'm not a "pixel peeper" and have been satisfied with the quality up to now. Maybe in certain situations (long exposure time?)  there will be an advantage, may it be visible or measurable only...

 

Jock


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#52 conchyjoe

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Posted 29 January 2014 - 01:42 PM

Jock,

 

Thank you for the great info. I completely missed the workaround by coroander. I need to get on this forum more often!

 

And yes I agree on the ISO drop to 100 could be helpful. I won't get wet until first week of March, so it will have to wait. the good thing is I most likely will get to go with Phil Rudin or maybe Chris Parsons if they are around.

 

Cheers!


Olympus OM-D EM-5 - PT-E08 - 8mm Panasonic - Zen 100mm Dome Port - Dual Inon Z240-3 - ULCS system
Olympus E-620 - PT-E06 - 50mm Zuiko - Athena 50mm Port - Dual Inon Z240-3 - ULCS system
Learned a LOT from folks on the internet, Thanks!