7 replies to this topic

[ProfF]

Hi,

I own a Nauticam housing for Olympus E-PL3. Recently Olympus came out with a 12-50mm zoom lens (equivalent to 24-100 full frame) that also can be shifted to macro mode. This seemed like a good all purpose lens when you are going down without a specific objective. Moreover, it is better quality than the 14-42mm kit lens. The problem was that there were no zoom gear for this lens. Nauticam came out with a special purpose port and zoom gear (costing $800 in the states) that also allows shifting to macro. This is one of the most complicated gears I ever run into (see http://reefphoto.com/kb.php?id=41).

I decided to use the new home 3D printer I bought for my wife (PP3DP Up!) and see if I can generate something that is a bit cheaper. I already own a port that is compatible with the lens, so the only issue is the zoom gear. Here is what I came up with. I call it V1.0, as I have ideas/plans on how to make a version that will allow the shift to macro. This shift requires pressing on a button on the side of the lens (no problem, the current gear is already pressing on it) and shifting the zoom ring forward (which is a bit more complicated).

Comments/ideas are welcome. Will be happy to share the design.

Cheers,

Nir

Edit: I uploaded the design here - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:36320

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Edited by ProfF, 01 December 2012 - 06:51 AM.

[rtrski]

Nice job. I've got a ring flash assembly in the works to couple from fiberoptic lightpipes at a strobe head, considerably cheaper than Saga's version. A tad more expensive than the "Ikea lamp and velcro tape" versions, especially factoring in the printer sunk cost, but with 10.5mm light pipes should carry far more light than individual fibers as well.

I suspect there's a vanishingly small window for us home 3D printers to 'make a buck or two' before the printer costs drop to the point where almost anyone who wants to do this sort of DIY stuff will make their own, at which point we're just trading designs...

[ProfF]

Nice job. I've got a ring flash assembly in the works to couple from fiberoptic lightpipes at a strobe head, considerably cheaper than Saga's version. A tad more expensive than the "Ikea lamp and velcro tape" versions, especially factoring in the printer sunk cost, but with 10.5mm light pipes should carry far more light than individual fibers as well.

I suspect there's a vanishingly small window for us home 3D printers to 'make a buck or two' before the printer costs drop to the point where almost anyone who wants to do this sort of DIY stuff will make their own, at which point we're just trading designs...

I am actually also thinking of a ring flash like that (I have a flip 67mm in the works, and then the ring flash). I am not sure if there is money to be made. I am doing it for myself and think that if someone is interested I can help him/her get it done with less trial+errors.

Where do you get 10.5mm fiber optics? how flexible are they? (I have been using smaller fibers).

Cheers,

-N

[rtrski]

10.5mm lightpipes aren't very flexible, but they don't have to be. I think the minimum bend radius is about 70-80mm. I happen to have a local company that distributes all sorts of fiberoptic lighting supplies I was able to check it out at, but I'm sure they're just ordering direct from someone else anyway:

http://www.wiedamark...resideglow.aspx
(Don't let the fact that I linked to the 'side glow' fool you. The only difference between endglow and sideglow in solid core fiber like this is whether they add another black jacket atop it. I can add shrink tubing where I want/need it)

I was planning a hexagonal arrangement: 3 pipes each side of the lens, plus maybe routing the focus lamp light to a seventh. Plus if I get creative with my collar and the lightpipe clamps, I could group them together behind diffusers (you can print transparent ABS now too) or allow the user to move them wherever they wanted. Current CAD model (the black central part is the solid of the Ikelite port outline, only one diffuser currently shown at right) is attached. One of the things I'm a bit uncertain of is if I want to risk having the diffusers stand a little 'above' the port tip. Too far forward and they'll light up the port face itself and reduce contrast. Too far back and you get port outline shadows again. The Sage fiberoptic assembly just ends in the individual fibers well in front of the port face, but provides some adjustment. Not sure I want to go to all the trouble of having thumbscrews etc. to allow that.


Not sure I was trying to make money when I bought the printer, but it would be nice to sell just enough parts to pay back the initial investment itself (mine's a Solidoodle, considerably less starting cost than the Up!), and maybe free up money by printing a few parts like this that I can spend on other things like lenses instead.

Sorry if this seems like a thread hijacking - just excited to talk to someone else doing 3d printing for u/w use. I see some of Reef Photo's parts (Reefnet brand) are 3D printed. Much as I like and respect them as a seller, and have bought from them (strobes etc), I can't see them continuing to sell things like strobe face snoot adaptors for $140 when they're clearly 3D printed parts.

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Edited by rtrski, 01 December 2012 - 06:54 AM.

[gobiodon]

Very cool projects. Both of yours.
Rtrski, you should post a separate thread on your fiber optic ring flash assembly. I've just opened this thread by chance but I'm very interested in any fiber optic solutions and many others may missed it.
I run a blog with fiber optic DIY projects:
http://www.fiberstrobe.blogspot.de/
It deals mainly above water applications but I also have some underwater solutions. You may remember my ring flash adapter, which was posted in wetpixel two years ago:
http://wetpixel.com/...showtopic=38176
Actually I'm planning to build an underwater version of my my recent ring/rim flash adapter:
http://www.fiberstro...-i-took-it.html
I've also tried large diameter fibers but I found it very unflexible, so I stayed with the bunches of fibers. But of course I would be interested in your experiences.
I think many others would be as well so you should post a separate thread.

May I have two suggestions for your assembly. You should test it first without diffusors. I think adding it would cause more problems than benefits. 6 large sparate fibers in water should have soft enough light. (You may try "mushrooming" the fibers for softer light
The other thing is that you may add light pipe holders in tilted positions for super macro. With straight fibers you may illuminate behind your subjects.

Cheers

Marcell

[rtrski]

Marcell: Thanks for the comments - I'll definitely start my own thread when I have a working prototype, and go from there. A couple quick responses - I'm still considering the diffusers because I don't want to end up with the chance of multiple shadow lines like the picture of your son has - while that can be a cool effect, I don't think it's what most would be going for. I also like the idea of the tilting option, possibly by hinging the fiber bosses around the ring a little, but with stiff fibers I don't know if I've got enough resistance to the natural tension as well as ability to manually adjust, without having some sort of functional adjustment like a clamp. But its still worth thinking thru. Right now I'm still thinking more 'ring flash' than 'selective snoot' lighting - there are many fiber snoot options already out there.

Best regards, and thanks again to the OP for his awesome print that initiated the discussion...

[gobiodon]

A couple quick responses - I'm still considering the diffusers because I don't want to end up with the chance of multiple shadow lines like the picture of your son has - while that can be a cool effect, I don't think it's what most would be going for. I also like the idea of the tilting option, possibly by hinging the fiber bosses around the ring a little, but with stiff fibers I don't know if I've got enough resistance to the natural tension as well as ability to manually adjust, without having some sort of functional adjustment like a clamp. But its still worth thinking thru. Right now I'm still thinking more 'ring flash' than 'selective snoot' lighting - there are many fiber snoot options already out there.

Best regards, and thanks again to the OP for his awesome print that initiated the discussion...

Actually that multiple shadow effect was a surprise for me but later I realized that part of the ring was bent while others were straight. But I found the effect cool that's why I posted the pictures.
On the other hand I have other macro specific projects and I never had a problem with multiple shadows:




Underwater you can expect even more homogenous light due to diffraction. I understand your dilemma that the diffusers should be the part of the design and cannot be added later. What you should also consider is the shape to have pleasant catchlight in case of fish photos.
Regarding the tilting if you could come up with a great idea it would be really cool. For land photography I used foam pieces in my ring adapter but it wouldn't work with your stiff fibers:
http://www.fiberstrobe.blogspot.de/2011/06/super-macro-mod.html

Good luck again for your ring flash project I really looking forward to it.

Cheers

Marcell

[blueglass]

Hi,
I have been using fiber optic lighting for years, both for macro and bug-eye images.
These are some of the devices I make: