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Print-it-yourself diopter "flip" holder


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#1 ProfF

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Posted 04 January 2013 - 09:08 AM

I have a Nauticam housing for my Olympus E-PL3. Recently, I have been mainly using a 4" wide-angle port, as it fits both the 12-50mm (multipurpose) and the 60mm (macro!) lenses as well as the 9-18mm (wide-angle) lens I originally bought it for. When using it with these newer lens, I wanted to add wet diopter. Recently, Nauticam came out with a product for this purpose (http://uw-foto.ch/im...ages/2484_1.jpg) , but I felt that shelling 220$ was a bit too much. Designing & printing my own solution was much more fun.

The final product is completely made of ABS, except for a single 72-67 step-down ring that provided the filter thread. Unlike the commercial solution, the "base" is not held by screws, but rather by a twist mechanism that locks it into place. It is slightly bulkier than the metal version, but works well. The ABS construction was surprisingly solid, and unlike the metal flip ring (which is heavy) this gadget has slightly positive buoyancy. All by all, after about 12 dives with it I am very happy.

The design can be found here - 67mm frame holder for Nauticam 4 inch wide angle port by nirfriedman - Thingiverse

If there is interest I can also upload it to shapeways and then you could order the printed version directly.

Happy Diving,

Nir

Attached Images

  • DSC_4960.jpg
  • DSC_4939.jpg
  • DSC_4961.jpg

Olympus E-PL3, Nauticam NA-PL3, Olympus 9-18mm, 12-50mm, 60mm lenses, Sea & Sea YS110a, YS01.

#2 FanchGadjo

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Posted 04 January 2013 - 03:56 PM

Great use of 3D printing ! Congratulations !

#3 oskar

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Posted 09 January 2013 - 05:58 AM

That's a great DYI, good work!

#4 nudibranco

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Posted 09 January 2013 - 08:22 AM

Nir, great 3d printing work!! All these adapters are way too expensive indeed.

I am actually using the same port on my OM5/Nautican setup but seldom using it with the 9-18mm lens since I do not get nice viz as much as I should.

So I was hoping also to attach a wet macro lens like you did and potentially using a larger Dyron 77mm which would reduce the vignetting and get me closer somewhat to my subjects UW at 18mm focal length.

Maybe the 67mm thread is good enough for the 18mm focal. Is the 9-18mm lens useable with the 4" port, your adapter and the macro wet lens (inon 165 I believe)????

Andrea

#5 MikeVeitch

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Posted 09 January 2013 - 10:11 AM

very nice! Great thinking

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#6 ProfF

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Posted 09 January 2013 - 01:21 PM

I am actually using the same port on my OM5/Nautican setup but seldom using it with the 9-18mm lens since I do not get nice viz as much as I should.

So I was hoping also to attach a wet macro lens like you did and potentially using a larger Dyron 77mm which would reduce the vignetting and get me closer somewhat to my subjects UW at 18mm focal length.

Maybe the 67mm thread is good enough for the 18mm focal. Is the 9-18mm lens useable with the 4" port, your adapter and the macro wet lens (inon 165 I believe)????


Andrea,

Frankly, I didn't try the combination of the 9-18 and the diopter together. I used this setup with the 12-50 and the 60 and in both cases it was useful. However, the 67mm does cause vignetting when I zoom the 12-50 to the wide side. So I assume it will also do that at 18mm.

I am not sure why you would want to add diopter to 9-18, W/A lenses focus very close. I took pictures of a fish "kissing" the dome and the lips were sharp...

Nir
Olympus E-PL3, Nauticam NA-PL3, Olympus 9-18mm, 12-50mm, 60mm lenses, Sea & Sea YS110a, YS01.

#7 nudibranco

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Posted 09 January 2013 - 11:51 PM

Hello Nir, the reason I am asking is because the 9mm is very useful UW but the 18mm is a middle ground that I could use if I could get close enough and I can't. It will not focus closer than 10 or 15 cm from the dome (focus distance from sensor is stated at 25cm).
But if I had a diopter in front of it (at 18mm ... not 12mm) I could use the combination for some closer shots.
I would try it myself but I do not have an adapter like yours or a diopter lens like yours. Maybe if you find out at what focal length the 12-50 lens start vignetting UW it will give me an idea... :)

Thanks!

#8 jmauricio

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Posted 10 January 2013 - 08:10 AM

Out of curiosity. How much does this adapter cost to build via 3D printing?

#9 ProfF

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Posted 10 January 2013 - 11:49 AM

Out of curiosity. How much does this adapter cost to build via 3D printing?


Depends on how you count. For me the cost was around 10-20$ raw materials for the final print (didn't calculate the exact weight) + ~3 trial prints (different parts at different stages). This is with my own printer (PP3DP Up!). If you go to a company such as Shapeways will cost you more (my guess ~50-70$). I will try to upload the design to Shapeways to get a more informed price.

Update: after loading to shapeways, the total for this design is 166$ + shipping. So, my guesstimate was a bit on the low side.

Edited by ProfF, 10 January 2013 - 12:53 PM.

Olympus E-PL3, Nauticam NA-PL3, Olympus 9-18mm, 12-50mm, 60mm lenses, Sea & Sea YS110a, YS01.

#10 jmauricio

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Posted 11 January 2013 - 02:20 PM

Interesting. thanks!

#11 rtrski

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Posted 10 February 2013 - 07:07 PM

Very nice job. Are the hinging rings printed separately and glued on to the main holder? I only ask because with my printer the 'within layer' strength is far greater than the 'between layer' strength, so any circular holes are best printed with the axis vertical to prevent them fracturing.

You do some great engineering! My soon to be posted Ringflash looks hideous by comparison. ;)

Current rig: Sony SLT-alpha55 in Ikelite housing, Sigma 105mm f2.8 DC Macro w/ Ike 5505.58 flat port or Sigma 8-16mm f/4.5-5.6 DC HSM behind UWCamStuff custom 5" mini-dome. Dual INON z240 Type IVs triggered with DS51 for TTL mimicry, or DS51 alone with home-made ringflash assy for macro.

 

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#12 ProfF

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Posted 14 February 2013 - 01:51 AM

Very nice job. Are the hinging rings printed separately and glued on to the main holder? I only ask because with my printer the 'within layer' strength is far greater than the 'between layer' strength, so any circular holes are best printed with the axis vertical to prevent them fracturing.


Thanks.

The hinge rings are printed with the main holder. My printer can do this type of prints without problems (it prints removable support structure).
Olympus E-PL3, Nauticam NA-PL3, Olympus 9-18mm, 12-50mm, 60mm lenses, Sea & Sea YS110a, YS01.

#13 nudibranco

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Posted 14 February 2013 - 03:53 AM

Hello Nir, the reason I am asking is because the 9mm is very useful UW but the 18mm is a middle ground that I could use if I could get close enough and I can't. It will not focus closer than 10 or 15 cm from the dome (focus distance from sensor is stated at 25cm).
But if I had a diopter in front of it (at 18mm ... not 12mm) I could use the combination for some closer shots.
I would try it myself but I do not have an adapter like yours or a diopter lens like yours. Maybe if you find out at what focal length the 12-50 lens start vignetting UW it will give me an idea... Posted Image

Thanks!


I did try to see where it vignettes with a 67mm ring and the reality is that with 18mm still vignettes badly (and that's without a lens just the 67mm frame!!).
It should not vignette from about 25mm and up. I have not tried as I have to disassemble the 12-50mm from the Nauticam gear (always afraid to lose all those little screws).

The issue is that the glass port sits way past the lens. Not sure why they designed it like that (maybe designed for Sony lens first?) or just because the center of focus is optimal at that distance, but the 9-18mm lens is back almost 2cm from the glass...