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magic lantern 5D 2K DNG RAW


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#121 Drew

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Posted 10 September 2013 - 10:38 PM

Yeah, ML RAW saps batteries quickly.  Better to turn off live view when not shooting.  Do you think you can mod an old 1D housing to fit the 5D3 with a grip? With HDMI out, it may be the best way to shoot with the 5D3 in the field.


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#122 CheungyDiver

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Posted 10 September 2013 - 10:57 PM

Maybe in an old 1D Seacam housing or Subal. Yes I have already tried the battery grip idea topside. Last twice as long. May be its because you could use two LPE6 batteries LOL. 

 

Forget trying to DIY HDMI. It is so tedious to decipher 19 pins. May be Nauticam could supply me one of their HDMI bulkheads.

 

Not going to be a quick or cheap job ;)

 

 

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#123 Drew

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Posted 11 September 2013 - 12:41 AM

I like the hood on the Dive And See one more.


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#124 CheungyDiver

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Posted 11 September 2013 - 12:56 AM

Oh yeah that connector is made by Sea Con.  Sure if you could work out all the wires and pins. I am sure Dive and See could help you if you buy their monitor kit.

 

Cheers


Edited by CheungyDiver, 11 September 2013 - 12:57 AM.

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#125 howeikwok

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Posted 16 September 2013 - 12:52 AM

Just wondering if this announcement has any effect on the ML hack? Or is it a totally new format?

 

http://www.dpreview....t&ref=title_0_8


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#126 Ferg42

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Posted 16 September 2013 - 01:07 AM

It's a totally new format, so no cameras currently support it. Sandisk did also announce some extreme pro cards recently which can supposedly write at up to 150Mb/s. Unfortunately it now seems as though all this might be irrelevant as in practice the speed bottleneck seems to be in the camera not the card. In theory the cameras can write at up to 165 Mb/s, but it seems as though people testing new Komputerbay 1200x and 1050x cards are reporting no speed improvement on the benchmark tests, despite getting an improvement with when testing on a pc with a card reader.

Still, I'm very happy that I've got a very real video quality improvement with ML raw, and I'm getting stable 1080p 25fps with the current setup. Just need a bigger card, and lots of hard drive capacity for backup!


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#127 CheungyDiver

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Posted 16 September 2013 - 01:44 AM

Agreed. Bigger CF card say 256GB with sustained speed of 120 mb/s and I am happy camper. For the 5DMIII at least. I think more importantly  that a stable firmware version ( Beta?) of the ML could be developed with all the wrinkles such as skip frames ironed out then the firmware could ready for the mainstream. Editing software is already catching up with direct edit of various raw files. I am having a blast in any case with this ML firmware even now at alpha stage. 


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#128 Ferg42

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Posted 28 October 2013 - 12:05 PM

Here's a bit more of the ML Raw footage from a recent photography workshop if anyone's interested. Some of the topside is standard H264, all the underwater, except the last shot (gopro) is with ML. There are a couple of shots with the digital zoom- the anemone fish and the coral closeup with fish- the wide at 01:13 was shot at 17mm, the closeup that follows it was shot from exactly the same spot, but at 40mm with the 3x digital zoom applied.

Anyway link here:

 

 

That is the 720p version. If you click through to my vimeo videos, the 1080p version is also there (better quality if you have a fast connection)


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#129 Drew

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Posted 05 January 2014 - 11:22 PM

I recently bought the Sandisk 256GB Extreme Pro VPG65 to extend recording to 40+ mins, which is about 80-90% of the limit of the battery life with ML on (with my older 5D2 batteries).  With 2:1 ratio, I can get 1920x960 @ 30fps in 5min bursts easily.  I've stressed tested the card and it will start dropping frames on extend length clips  past 12-15mins.   It's pretty random when it does but I don't really shoot more than 5-7 mins usually so it's fine by me. YMMV.  @ US$1100, it's not cheap by any means, but it does allow more time underwater.

The latest build (01/06/2014) are quite stable with a few interface bugs.  However, to reiterate the obvious, it's still a firmware hack (even if the ML team say it's no longer a hack), so there are inherent risks to using a hack.  It also requires v1.13 firmware, which means no f8 AF with teleconverters etc.


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#130 r4e

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Posted 06 January 2014 - 01:57 AM

In post 120, CheungyDiver reported battery capacity of about 90 minutes. In Drew's latest post above, with 40 minutes of RAW recording (wow), the battery capacity drops to 45-50 minutes. Is this difference a result of almost constantly shooting raw video? It seems that one would have to keep very battery management aware with ML. That's a pity, because without ML you get 120-150 minutes of liveview time.

 

Here is an opportunity for an u/w housing builder: how to provide additional battery capacity for 5DIII or any power hungry camera with battery limitations. One could use a spare bulk head for the power connection and thus the solution could be independent of the camera housing brand. Perhaps a combo of an external monitor plus the external power supply?


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#131 Drew

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Posted 06 January 2014 - 04:40 AM

Sorry I should've elaborated on that.  My batteries are older relics from the 5D2 and I really meant iit as the card finally makes the camera fit a full dive vs having to stop shooting RAW video and switch to  stills.  WIth a fresh battery, which I won't buy until my present batteries hit 40mins life, I've seen it at around 100 mins or so.  Zebra, histogram etc may drain it a bit more, but I think many people complained about battery life shortening.  However, in tests, it does no worse than Canon firmware. 


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#132 kkfok

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Posted 06 February 2014 - 07:07 AM

If I use magic filter to shoot magic lantern Raw video, will I be able to tune the color back to normal by sliding the color temp and tint slider in ACR? 


Edited by kkfok, 06 February 2014 - 07:08 AM.


#133 Ferg42

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Posted 06 February 2014 - 07:51 AM

If I use magic filter to shoot magic lantern Raw video, will I be able to tune the color back to normal by sliding the color temp and tint slider in ACR? 

Yes, you have a lot of capacity to change WB in post (whether ACR or gradiing software). It's much better than the Canon h264. I normally use a magic filter and have had no issues getting a good result for white balance.


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#134 CheungyDiver

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Posted 06 February 2014 - 03:51 PM

Fergus is right. Magic Filter (original one for the tropics) works. Works for my 5D MIII ML and EOS M and even the Black Magic Pocket Cinema Camera. 

 

Funny how things that works has the "magic" word ?

 

Magic Filter is a gel filter and will only take about half a f-stop away but helps with replacing information missing from the red channel by balancing the other two (green and blue) channels in Red color starved shooting situations. Better for color correction afterwards.

 

 

Cheers


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#135 kkfok

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Posted 06 February 2014 - 04:09 PM

Thanks. But then there is no need for any manual WB underwater, right? All can be done in post?



#136 CheungyDiver

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Posted 06 February 2014 - 05:28 PM

If you shoot ML raw no. There are ways to expose the footage and help with highlight details and reduce shadow noise by shooting ETTR (expose to the right). Difficulty with this is when you get too close to the surface highlight clipping will be difficult to avoid even stopping down . I am planning to mod an V. ND with a gear ring to control from the port. 

 

cheers

 

David


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#137 kkfok

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Posted 06 February 2014 - 06:21 PM

If you shoot ML raw no. There are ways to expose the footage and help with highlight details and reduce shadow noise by shooting ETTR (expose to the right). Difficulty with this is when you get too close to the surface highlight clipping will be difficult to avoid even stopping down . I am planning to mod an V. ND with a gear ring to control from the port. 

 

cheers

 

David

 

 

Thanks David. But I meant white balance. If yes then I will keep the WB setting at outdoor-daylight and tune the WB in post. Exposure I am thinking to use Auto ISO and AE lock.

 

By the way, have you guys been able to shoot in 1920 x 1080 30p? I have tried Lexar and Komputerbay 1000x 64GB cards but the

best reliable resolution that I can get is just 1728 x 972. 1856 is fine in normal mode, but pink weird frames appear in 3x crop mode. Still thinking if I should get a Sandisk Extreme Pro (VPG65) or the new Lexar 1066X as I really want to have a reliable 128GB card.


Edited by kkfok, 06 February 2014 - 08:21 PM.


#138 CheungyDiver

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Posted 06 February 2014 - 07:21 PM

Only reliable CF is Lexar 64 at 1000x. I fired a few Komputer Bay cards now I avoid them like the plaque.

 

Not tried 30p. All done in 24p. 

 

WB set at manual. I usually dial in. Exposure set at ISO 160, 320, 640 or 1250 . Use fast lens when possible. Turn off all the other features in ML. They just draw more power. Allow only record on CF card. Stop camera reading back and forth both cards. Try to shooting image as flat as possible. No sharpening no picture styles. These are just my preferences. Depends on which version of ML you installed.

 

good luck and happy shooting.


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#139 Ferg42

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Posted 07 February 2014 - 02:30 AM

Agree with what David said. I have been using Komputerbay- have 3 cards. So far have had one problem with corrupted still images, but touch wood OK for ML so far. I also can't manage 30p at 1920x1080 on any of my cards. It can be done at a higher aspect ratio- I got it to work at 2:1 at 30p with the Komputerbay 128gb 1050x. I'm using it on a trip soon, so slightly nervous, but I will have 3 Komputerbay cards with me, and a Transcend, but the Transcend is actually a bit slower. If you have the money I would go for the Lexar. In fact with all the money I've spent on backup Komputerbay cards and Transcend I could have got a couple of Lexars! 

Interestingly with my card I have found that having Global Draw on doesn't make that much difference to the speed- I can still get 1920, 2:1 at 30p and it's handy having the zebras and peaking.

 

David- I'm interested in your idea of modding a ND filter- do you mean a graduated ND to cut down on clipping of the surface? I've also contemplated trying this, but I always thought of just fixing it in place, and being stuck with a certain type of composition for the dive. Being able to move it with gears sounds ingenious would love to see pictures.

 

Cheers


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#140 kkfok

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Posted 07 February 2014 - 06:17 PM

Thanks guys, I just gone ahead to buy some magic filters for my Tokina 10-17 and 17-40.

I will also use this setup in a dive trip very soon and I am a bit nervous too, just in case if the camera lock up underwater...I will have no way to take the battery out underwater and I may fry my 5D3, hope that it won't happen. :aggressive: