Jump to content


Photo
- - - - -

Staying Connected -Hot Shoe Attachments


  • Please log in to reply
13 replies to this topic

#1 Steve Williams

Steve Williams

    Humpback Whale

  • Moderator
  • 3057 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Tucson, Arizona
  • Interests:Protecting our Ocean, Environmental Education,
    Having fun and Living Well

Posted 15 May 2013 - 02:57 AM

Hi folks,

Anyone have a slick way to keep your strobe firing circuit attached to your cameras hot shoe. Tape, velcro, rubber bands?   I lost a dive today because mine vibrated loose on the boat ride out to dive site.  Shooting 100mm macro with ambient is not very satisfying.  I've never had the problem before but I guessing I'm not the first.  How do you keep the hot shoe connected?

 

Cheers,

Steve


The Fin Foundation
HSWImages.com        My Images on Flikr

Canon 5D Mk III, 7D & 40D, 60mm, 100mm, 17-40L, Tokina 10-17, Nauticam 7D, Sea & Sea MDX-40D YS-250's ULCS arms, Lightroom


#2 Kelpfish

Kelpfish

    Giant Squid

  • Industry
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 1602 posts
  • Location:California

Posted 15 May 2013 - 04:57 AM

Hi Steve,

 

I have had that issue with my wife's old 5060 Ikelite housing and on my housings a few times.  I took a rubber band and put it around the cord hot shoe connector (where the wire attaches to the male hot shoe) from the sync port and twisted it a few times, then stretched the rubber band forward over the front of the camera and down and around the lens and found a way to attach it to a screw on the tray.  Worked like a charm every time.  There may be a better way but this was a field repair while traveling and all I had was a few medium sized rubber bands in my tool kit.  I also had tape but this way I didn't leave sticky, gummy tape residue on my camera.

 

Joe


Edited by Kelpfish, 15 May 2013 - 04:59 AM.

Joe Belanger
Author, Catalina Island - All you Need to Know
www.californiaunderwater.com
www.visitingcatalina.com

#3 Bent C

Bent C

    Manta Ray

  • Member
  • PipPipPip
  • 441 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Sweden

Posted 15 May 2013 - 05:24 AM

On all Ikelites I have used it has been a problem. I have used a piece of eraser rubber cut to fit between the back plate of the housing and the hot shoe. However, on the Nauticam I use now, I use optical wiring and have never had a problem.
Bent Christensen
Nauticam and Canon 7D
http://bentmedia.me

#4 blibecap

blibecap

    Tiger Shark

  • Member
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 548 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Cincinnati, Ohio U.S.A.

Posted 15 May 2013 - 05:35 AM

Hi folks,

Anyone have a slick way to keep your strobe firing circuit attached to your cameras hot shoe. Tape, velcro, rubber bands?   I lost a dive today because mine vibrated loose on the boat ride out to dive site.  Shooting 100mm macro with ambient is not very satisfying.  I've never had the problem before but I guessing I'm not the first.  How do you keep the hot shoe connected?

 

Cheers,

Steve

Hey Steve

Lets see what I remember. If it doesn't move and it should = WD40, If it moves and it shouldn't = Duct Tape, but I agree with Joe on this one, I used a very short rubber-band from broccoli and cut the width down and it worked great. 


Bill Libecap
Cincinnati, Oh
http://www.UwCameraStuff.com
Home of the Housing Sentry, the ultimate leak prevention system.

#5 Deep6

Deep6

    Great Hammerhead

  • Member
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 882 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Broomfield, CO

Posted 15 May 2013 - 06:59 AM

Hey Steve

Lets see what I remember. If it doesn't move and it should = WD40, If it moves and it shouldn't = Duct Tape, but I agree with Joe on this one, I used a very short rubber-band from broccoli and cut the width down and it worked great. 

LOL: Nice play on the old Navy saw.

Bob


Carpe carp - Seize the carp


#6 Paul Kay

Paul Kay

    Giant Squid

  • Industry
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 1730 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:North Wales, UK

Posted 16 May 2013 - 01:14 AM

I have used a piece of eraser rubber cut to fit between the back plate of the housing and the hot shoe.

A small piece of foam rubber stuck inside the back of the housing will prevent vibration causing the hot shoe to become loose. I also use the end from a Nikon SC11 cable when firing a flash from the PC flash socket, as the SC11 has a threaded collar which prevents the flash cable plug from undoing from the PC flash socket.


Paul Kay, Canon EOS5D/5DII, SEACAM/S45, 15, 24L, 60/2.8 (+Ext12II) & 100/2.8 Macros - UK/Ireland Seacam Sales underseacameras & marinewildlife & paulkayphotography & welshmarinefish

#7 Steve Williams

Steve Williams

    Humpback Whale

  • Moderator
  • 3057 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Tucson, Arizona
  • Interests:Protecting our Ocean, Environmental Education,
    Having fun and Living Well

Posted 16 May 2013 - 05:07 AM

Thanks Paul, I like the idea.  It's a permanent solution that would seem easy to implement. 

 

Cheers,

Steve


The Fin Foundation
HSWImages.com        My Images on Flikr

Canon 5D Mk III, 7D & 40D, 60mm, 100mm, 17-40L, Tokina 10-17, Nauticam 7D, Sea & Sea MDX-40D YS-250's ULCS arms, Lightroom


#8 ehanauer

ehanauer

    Eagle Ray

  • Industry
  • PipPipPip
  • 358 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:San Diego, California
  • Interests:Diving, Chicago Cubs baseball, Mac computers, swimming, Porsches

Posted 16 May 2013 - 06:29 AM

Another solution is to ditch the hot shoe and go fiber optic.
Eric
www.ehanauer.com

#9 Steve Williams

Steve Williams

    Humpback Whale

  • Moderator
  • 3057 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Tucson, Arizona
  • Interests:Protecting our Ocean, Environmental Education,
    Having fun and Living Well

Posted 16 May 2013 - 01:22 PM

Something to seriously consider Eric, I have always thought my YS-250s were more dependable when triggered electrically.  I could do it with my 7D but probably not while I'm here in Lembeh for the next couple of weeks.  I'm triggering the my wife's little S100 Fix with a fiber and it's been flawless.   

 

I've been running into all sorts of small issues I've never seen before. Today some button was half pressed so that I wasn't getting a review of the image I had just shot.  I couldn't pull it back up to review. I've never seen that before.  Very weird, it was like shooting film again.  I was bracketing strobe power just like in the good old days and hoping something good would happen.  I think my issues are a combination of my substantial rust and Neptune checking me out to see if I'm serious.  

 

I'll keep at it.  I reset the hot shoe connector this morning and it worked fine today.

 

Cheers,

Steve


The Fin Foundation
HSWImages.com        My Images on Flikr

Canon 5D Mk III, 7D & 40D, 60mm, 100mm, 17-40L, Tokina 10-17, Nauticam 7D, Sea & Sea MDX-40D YS-250's ULCS arms, Lightroom


#10 andy_deitsch

andy_deitsch

    Wolf Eel

  • Member
  • PipPip
  • 131 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Saratoga Springs, NY

Posted 16 May 2013 - 01:31 PM

For what it's worth Steve, and it won't help while you are in Lembeh, I'm using fiber optic on my 7D with a Nauticam housing and it's flawless.


Canon 7D, Nauticam NA-7D, 2x Inon z240, Tokina 10-17, Canon 60mm
Flickr: http://www.flickr.co...tos/andydeitsch

 


#11 John Bantin

John Bantin

    Sperm Whale

  • Industry
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 1857 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Teddington/Twickenham UK
  • Interests:former Technical Editor of
    Diver Magazine (UK) and www.divernet.com
    occasional contributor
    SportDiver (Aus)
    Undercurrent
    Author of Amazing Diving Stories (Wiley Nautical)

Posted 17 May 2013 - 02:07 AM

You can usually adjust the spring tension on the flash connection foot on most housings.


I buy my own photographic kit. Diving equipment manufacturers and diving services suppliers get even-handed treatment from me whether they choose to advertise in the publications I write for or not. All the equipment I get on loan is returned as soon as it is finished with. Did you know you can now get Diver Mag as an iPad/Android app?

 

#12 Steve Williams

Steve Williams

    Humpback Whale

  • Moderator
  • 3057 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Tucson, Arizona
  • Interests:Protecting our Ocean, Environmental Education,
    Having fun and Living Well

Posted 17 May 2013 - 05:37 AM

Thanks John, didn't think to look for it.  Appreciate the thought.

 

It may be time Andy, are the fiber optic cables long enough to do reasonable wide angle work?   I don't use really long arms, just 5 and 8's, but the fiber optic cords I've seen seem very short. 

 

Steve


The Fin Foundation
HSWImages.com        My Images on Flikr

Canon 5D Mk III, 7D & 40D, 60mm, 100mm, 17-40L, Tokina 10-17, Nauticam 7D, Sea & Sea MDX-40D YS-250's ULCS arms, Lightroom


#13 andy_deitsch

andy_deitsch

    Wolf Eel

  • Member
  • PipPip
  • 131 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Saratoga Springs, NY

Posted 17 May 2013 - 03:08 PM

Steve, I also have a 5 and 8 and the cables are long enough for me to stretch the arms fully (please excuse the upside down image - hopefully you get the point) :)

 

photo.JPG


Edited by andy_deitsch, 17 May 2013 - 03:14 PM.

Canon 7D, Nauticam NA-7D, 2x Inon z240, Tokina 10-17, Canon 60mm
Flickr: http://www.flickr.co...tos/andydeitsch

 


#14 Cary Dean

Cary Dean

    Sting Ray

  • Member
  • PipPipPip
  • 277 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Southern California

Posted 17 May 2013 - 07:35 PM

Something I never considered. Thanks for allowing me

to learn from your misfortune. Hope you figure out a suitable

solution.


"The sea, once it casts its spell, holds one in its net of wonder forever."
Jacques Yves Cousteau