Jump to content


Photo
- - - - -

LCD won't turn on at depth

Nikon D330s Ikelite

  • Please log in to reply
13 replies to this topic

#1 witchieblackcat

witchieblackcat

    Damselfish

  • Member
  • Pip
  • 16 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Penwortham

Posted 30 August 2013 - 05:12 AM

I've just taken delivery of a new Nikon D300s and Ikelite housing to match. I tried it out last weekend and all went well apart from one thing: the LCD won't go on when it's below any significant depth (10-15m) either by manually pressing the button or automatically after taking a shot which makes checking the histogram a bit tricky.

 

If I'm shallower there isn't a problem which makes we think that it's a misaligned button getting pressed by the water which is blocking the LCD on function. Does anyone have any idea which button would do this and how to fix it?


Edited by witchieblackcat, 30 August 2013 - 05:12 AM.

Alistair

#2 Tinman

Tinman

    Clownfish

  • Member
  • Pip
  • 29 posts
  • Gender:Male

Posted 01 September 2013 - 07:39 PM

I encountered a similar problem with my D7100 on my first couple of dives. I couldn't get the LCD to work so I couldn't review photos and adjust the light output from my strobes. Your issue may not be the same as mine, but here's what happened to me.

 

What I discovered involved the housing spring slipping off the shutter lever. Without being engaged on the spring, the shutter lever was placing enough pressure on the shutter button to prevent the LCD from working. I assembled and re assembled the housing several times before I identified the problem.

 

It's easy for the shutter lever to disengage from the spring as the lever is one of those ones which slides out of the way when the camera body is being installed in the housing. In hindsight, I'm sure I accidently pulled the shutter lever off the spring without realizing it during the dives. On subsequent dives, I made sure to keep the lever and spring engaged.

 

Hope your issue is as simple as mine was.

 

-Tinman



#3 J-S

J-S

    Lionfish

  • Member
  • PipPip
  • 56 posts
  • Gender:Male

Posted 02 September 2013 - 06:48 AM

Hi,

 

Have a similar issue on one dive. Everything was ok at the depth of 6m.

But when I reached 20m, the screen don't bring up anymore, but shutter works and I can take picture.

 

I understood the problem after the dive : the LCD screen protector was on the body!!!

 

(Ikelite D700.)



#4 atm_diver

atm_diver

    Starfish

  • Member
  • Pip
  • 8 posts

Posted 02 September 2013 - 09:42 AM

For what its worth.  Had this same problem with my D70 and an Ikelite housing.  Worked great down to about 100 feet, but the screen won't work below that depth.  Tried doing everything I could to reproduce this problem out of the housing.  Pressed every button, touched every button, put pressure on different parts of the camera, no luck.  Called Ikelite.  They suggested the housing needed maintenance and asked me to send it in.  I posted on this board, but no one had any advice that helped.  I have not sent the housing in for maintenance because I want to upgrade soon, but nothing else I tried worked.



#5 errbrr

errbrr

    Sting Ray

  • Member
  • PipPipPip
  • 221 posts
  • Gender:Female
  • Location:Melbourne, Australia

Posted 02 September 2013 - 01:55 PM

For mine (5DII in Aquatica) it was the AF-on lever after the housing came back from service. I found it was worse in the shallows but I could fix it by shaking the whole thing underwater, and then by wriggling various buttons. Once I worked out which one it was I adjusted the angle of the internal lever and that seems to have fixed the problem.



#6 witchieblackcat

witchieblackcat

    Damselfish

  • Member
  • Pip
  • 16 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Penwortham

Posted 03 September 2013 - 02:24 AM

Thanks for the replies.

 

Tinman, I've been working through the buttons on the back and seeing if they'd interfere with the LCD function but hadn't considered the shutter. I'll have a look at that area next.

 

J-S, I always leave the LCD protector on a housed camera. It's worked for my D300 and D70s so I can't see why that will upset the D300s. Although it might just be moving it a touch towards the shutter causing a Tinman issue.


Alistair

#7 UWphotoNewbie

UWphotoNewbie

    Great Hammerhead

  • Member
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 857 posts
  • Location:Broomfield, Colorado

Posted 04 September 2013 - 01:44 PM

I had the same issue recently with my D70 Ikelite housing. Like Tinman, it was the shutter lever pressing on the shutter button.  I should inspect it to see if its an issue with the spring, but I was able to work around it by lifting up on the shutter button a bit each time after each shot. It was less annoying an issue than it sounds.

 

I recently started diving again after 5 years and upgraded to the D70s. My D70 never had this. Perhaps the spring is worn out or misaligned if the D70s shutter is slightly different than the D70.

 

I would inspect the shutter button and lever mechanism. Water pressure can act on buttons at depth. If its half pressing the shutter the LCD won't display no matter what else you push.


UWPhotoNewbie: Not such a newbie to diving and UW photography.

Nikon D70: 60 mm, 11-16mm, 105mm, 15mm, 10.5mm

Ikelite iTTL Housing, dual Ikelite DS125

Nikon D600 topside 14-24, 28-300, 70-200, 35,50,85


#8 Tinman

Tinman

    Clownfish

  • Member
  • Pip
  • 29 posts
  • Gender:Male

Posted 04 September 2013 - 11:09 PM

I don't have a D300s, but I assume the factory LCD protector on the D300s is either the same or similar to the one on my D300. If your Ikelite housing back is designed like the one I use on my D7100, using the LCD protector must really be a tight fit which puts a lot of forward pressure on the camera body.

 

My D7100 came without a LCD protector so I added an after market stick-on protector (a thin single layer of material). The pressure from the housing back put so much pressure on the protector that it wrinkled it up every time I attached the camera to the housing back. I doubt the Ikelite housing for the D7100 is designed for use with an LCD protector. The tolerances are just too tight on my housing to use a LCD protector.

 

-Tiinman



#9 jcclink

jcclink

    Great Hammerhead

  • Member
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 742 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:San Diego

Posted 05 September 2013 - 05:59 AM

I trust that the rubber eye piece on the view finder has also been removed.


Nexus D300, 10-17mm, 12-24mm, 17-55mm, 60mm, 105mm VR
S&S YS110's & YS27's

#10 witchieblackcat

witchieblackcat

    Damselfish

  • Member
  • Pip
  • 16 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Penwortham

Posted 10 September 2013 - 03:06 PM

Again thanks for the advice. 

I checked the camera at depth (45m) at the weekend. The problem is the AE-L/AF-L lock button which has the additional effect of locking the focus so every picture below 15-20m is out of focus! I'm thinking of removing the little plastic cap from the end of the pushing rod to give myself a little more clearance which should sort things out.

 

@jcclink
No, the eyecup is present. I used to take it off on the D70s I had but it makes no difference so I leave it on now. I just looked at the camera and the eyecup is further in than the LCD protector

 

@Tinman

The LCD protector seems exactly the same as the one on the D300 (I had one of them up until I flooded it in July hence all the new kit courtesy of the nice insurance man). I might try taking the LCD protector off. Not sure it will help in this situation as if anything it'll be pushing the camera and the AE-L/AF-L lock button forwards and away from the pushing rod causing the problem.

 

 

@UWphotoNewbie
I can't see why it would be the shutter as it's on a swivel rod rather than in and out (so water pressure wouldn't affect it) but just to be sure I checked anyway. The shutter definitely isn't being pressed by the water pressure. The housing is brand new so I'd be really disappointed if the spring was worn.

I'll report back after my next test which is probably in two weeks.


Edited by witchieblackcat, 10 September 2013 - 03:08 PM.

Alistair

#11 Tinman

Tinman

    Clownfish

  • Member
  • Pip
  • 29 posts
  • Gender:Male

Posted 10 September 2013 - 07:14 PM

The LCD protector on D300 cameras is quite thick. You might find that removing it from the housed camera shifts the camera back enough to prevent the focus lock from being accidently being engaged. If the focus lock lever is depressing the button, what's causing this. It's not a spring-loaded lever and should only engage the button if the lever is moved.

 

You shouldn't need an LCD protector on a housed D300 anyway. Take it off when the camera is housed and put it back on when you're shooting without the housing.

 

Glad you found the problem. It should be easily fixed by simply making sure the lever is not depressing the button.

 

-Tinman



#12 witchieblackcat

witchieblackcat

    Damselfish

  • Member
  • Pip
  • 16 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Penwortham

Posted 11 September 2013 - 03:58 AM

The LCD protector on D300 cameras is quite thick. You might find that removing it from the housed camera shifts the camera back enough to prevent the focus lock from being accidently being engaged. 

 

The focus lock is on the back of the camera so removing the LCD protector to shift the camera back would exacerbate the problem surely?
Not the the camera will shift back much at all as it's secured to the mounting plate using the tripod screw.


Alistair

#13 UWphotoNewbie

UWphotoNewbie

    Great Hammerhead

  • Member
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 857 posts
  • Location:Broomfield, Colorado

Posted 25 September 2013 - 07:59 AM

I'm glad you figured it out. Its not suprising that you need a few little tweaks to the housing. These are not mass produced products and a little adjustment is par for the course. I had to add some plastic washers to the rear dials to get them to engage properly.

 

This is normal and another reason I don't want to upgrade my D70 as old as it is. With infrequent diving I know I would spend a good part of my next vacation tweaking/learning. The D70 is clunky but isn't broken and still gives awesome pictures since I know its quirks.


UWPhotoNewbie: Not such a newbie to diving and UW photography.

Nikon D70: 60 mm, 11-16mm, 105mm, 15mm, 10.5mm

Ikelite iTTL Housing, dual Ikelite DS125

Nikon D600 topside 14-24, 28-300, 70-200, 35,50,85


#14 diverdoug1

diverdoug1

    Eagle Ray

  • Member
  • PipPipPip
  • 370 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Sarasota, Florida
  • Interests:UW photography, Cave diving, Trimix, Spearfishing, Saltwater fishing, Freshwater fishing, Skiing

Posted 25 September 2013 - 09:07 AM

The Lcd protector will angle the camera body forward slightly.  This will bring the bottom of the button in an angled position under the tip of the housing button, and actually make contact further back with the housing button. In short just take the damn screen protector off and see if it fixes the problem.  I had the same issue with a D300s ikelite body. Also take the eyepiece cup off.  DO IT!  DO IT NOW! :)


Edited by diverdoug1, 25 September 2013 - 09:10 AM.