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DNC-N Atomos Ninja 2 housing by Dive And See


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#1 Drew

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Posted 06 September 2013 - 02:16 AM

Dive And See launched their DNC-N housing earlier this year for the Atomos Ninja 2 HDMI recorder.  This all aluminum housing works with many housing brands and is selling for $1599.  That hood design looks great!

 

sea%20%26%20sea%20ninja%202%20atomos_0.J

 

underwater%20atomos%20ninja%202.jpg


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#2 Pete L

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Posted 07 September 2013 - 02:05 AM

That's a pretty funky looking latch:)


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#3 EspenRekdal

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Posted 03 December 2013 - 02:37 AM

Pete, It works remarkably well! I have used both models of this housing and both have performed very well for me. Dive and See had a recall on the first model due to some users having problems with the latch. I can only recommend this product and the great service they provide!


Nikon D4, D3s, D2x, etc etc.. Nauticam housing, Inon z240s, Subtronic Mega Cs and housed Nikon Sb900s...

#4 Rui_Guerra

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Posted 26 December 2013 - 09:54 AM

Hi Espen, how are you?

 

I'm using a D800 in Subal housing and thought about adding a Ninja2 (probably in the Dive and See housing) to the kit. But in order to record the uncompressed HDMI signal from the D800, one must take off all the CF/SD cards from the camera. That means that during that dive one cannot take any pictures, just video, because as far as I know you cannot send photos through the HDMI port.

 

That's really bad, especially for those of us that want to have both capabilities in all dives...


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#5 buddy

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Posted 26 December 2013 - 09:05 PM

I guess you are wrong on this. You do not have to take off the cards when recording over HDMI to an external recorder. Just to not press the recording button on the camera (activate recording only on the Ninja by turning the camera into live view and press the record button on the ninja). I have the ninja2 and the dive and see housing and it works for both video and photos.


Juerg
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Nikon D4s, Nikon 16-35 /f4 VR II, 70-180,105mm f/2.8, Subal ND4 housing and ports, 2 Subtronic Fusion (flash and video lights), Sigma 15mm /f2.8, Subal 4" Minidome


#6 buddy

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Posted 26 December 2013 - 09:14 PM

I noticed a strange behavior which I cannot explain and neither the housing provider Dive and See:

 

when shooting over HDMI to the housed ninja in 1080p25 the recording stops erratically here and then; however this does not happen in 1080p30. But when the ninja is connected directly to the camera without the housing (obviously on land only) the recording is fine in both 1080p25 and 1080p30. Strange isn't it?

Any ideas what this could be?


Juerg
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Nikon D4s, Nikon 16-35 /f4 VR II, 70-180,105mm f/2.8, Subal ND4 housing and ports, 2 Subtronic Fusion (flash and video lights), Sigma 15mm /f2.8, Subal 4" Minidome


#7 Rui_Guerra

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Posted 27 December 2013 - 02:05 AM

I guess you are wrong on this. You do not have to take off the cards when recording over HDMI to an external recorder. Just to not press the recording button on the camera (activate recording only on the Ninja by turning the camera into live view and press the record button on the ninja). I have the ninja2 and the dive and see housing and it works for both video and photos.

 

Do you have the D800 or another camera? I hope you are right, because in that case I will buy the Ninja2 :-)

But there are several places in the internet that says that if you don't remove the cards, the stream thought HDMI will be limited to 720p (it's the fact that there are no card that triggers the uncompressed video through the HDMI port). Please see here:

http://www.bythom.com/hdmivideo.htm

 

and in this video:

 

 

The first one is what Tom Hogan says and in the last video it is said by Nikon.

 

If you have the D800, can you try it and check the resolution of the recorded video with and without the cards?

 

Another question is: in the D800 you can choose in which card you want to record video; if we only remove THAT card, will the HDMI output be a clean video or must we remove ALL cards from the camera? If it was only the video destination card, then we can shoot stills for the other card...

 

Cheers,


Edited by Rui_Guerra, 27 December 2013 - 02:06 AM.

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#8 EspenRekdal

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Posted 27 December 2013 - 02:20 AM

@Rui,

 

I dont have the D800, but there is no problem recording to the ninja with the cards in place with my D4. The problem arises when you try to record to the card at the same time you are recording to the ninja. The feed will then automatically get scaled to 720p on the hdmi port and the ninja will record 720p instead of 1080p. 

 

@Buddy,

This happens when you have a bad connection between camera and ninja. My guess is that the Hdmi C connector between the camera and cable is at fault. Usually this is easily fixed with a new cable. Be aware though that the connection between camera and cable is very easily ruined by even small movements of the contact (yea it sucks!).

 

E


Nikon D4, D3s, D2x, etc etc.. Nauticam housing, Inon z240s, Subtronic Mega Cs and housed Nikon Sb900s...

#9 thetrickster

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Posted 27 December 2013 - 02:51 AM

Any major differences between the Dive&See housing vs the Nauticam one?


Regards, Richard

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Gear:  GH4, 12-35mm, 7-14mm, 8mm FishEye, 60mm, Atomos Ninja2, NA-GH3, NA-NINJA2, Zen 170mm Dome, Keldan Luna 8 CRI's

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#10 Rui_Guerra

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Posted 27 December 2013 - 03:46 AM

I compared the specifications and the Dive and See is smaller and cheaper, but a little heavier.

Can anyone says if the announced weight is with or without the Ninja2/batteries inside?

 

Dive and See DNC-N:

 

  • Size 6.4 x 4.4 x 3.4 inch / 164 x 112 x 87 mm
  • Weight: 1,6 Kg in air (250 gr in fresh water)
  • Price: $1599

 

 

 

 

 

 

Nauticam NA-Ninja2:

 

  • Size: 190 x 164 x 95 mm
  • Weight: 1,09 Kg in air (neutral uw - fresh or salt water?)
  • Price: $1800

 

Dive and See have long cables (option).

Dive and See comes with the sunshade (is an option in Nauticam). This sunshade is bigger then the optional one in the Nauticam, and the buttons are inside it, I don't know if they will be more difficult to operate (the sunshade in Nauticam is smaller and the buttons are outside it).

 

 


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#11 Rui_Guerra

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Posted 27 December 2013 - 05:16 AM

Analyzing Nauticam and Dive and See housings, both have 7 controls (so probably the same level of Ninja2's control).

 

The included Dive and See sunshade is big (good for its intended propose) but the fact that the push buttons are inside it may turn their operation more difficult because one usually "grab" the housing and press the buttons with your thumb, which is not possible with the Dive and See sunshade in place. I imagine that pushing the buttons with your forefinger will displace the monitor if the ball clamp is not really tightened. But maybe Espen, that uses it already, can clarify that too.


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#12 buddy

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Posted 27 December 2013 - 07:17 AM

I also have a D4 and the actual recorded stream is 1080p at xxx Mbps for ProRes and/or DNxHD codex (measured) even when cards are inside the camera (but no video recording through the camera). I guess this is the same with a D800, but why not asking your local Nikon rep?

 

I believe the specified weight of around 1.6 kg on air includes the ninja with 2 batteries and the HD/SSD disk inside (but I will wight it tonight to be fully sure).

 

The handling with the sun shade underwater is quite ok since all the important functions (start/stop, zebra, fals color etc.) are on the right side / inside the sun shade. I usually press the respective buttons with my thumb of the right hand while holding against from behind the housing with the rest of my right hand. Start/stop button is most important to operate underwater and this is at the lower right hand corner which is the easiest to reach


Juerg
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Nikon D4s, Nikon 16-35 /f4 VR II, 70-180,105mm f/2.8, Subal ND4 housing and ports, 2 Subtronic Fusion (flash and video lights), Sigma 15mm /f2.8, Subal 4" Minidome


#13 Rui_Guerra

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Posted 27 December 2013 - 10:41 AM

Thanks Buddy, for your reply.

 

OK, so no ergonomics problem with the sunshade. Good!

 

I already send an e-mail to Nikon Europe and also to Atomos to clarify that "remove the cards" thing. As soon as I get an answer, I'll post it here.

 

Before your's and Espen's answer, in all other sites they always say that one needs to remove all the cards, which means no photos :-(

 

Here is the link from Atomos: http://atomos.active...a-1-and-ninja-2

 

"….Remove media from Nikon D800, when media is inserted and REC is pressed, output will be limited to 720p 50/60…."

 

I'm assuming that the "REC" here is the one in the Ninja2, not in the camera.

 

And Tom Hogan says:

 

"1 - You need to take the internal storage cards out of the camera (XQD and CompactFlash on the D4, CompactFlash and SD on the D800). This isn't technically necessary, but there are things you can do if a card is in the camera that'll reset the HDMI output to 720P that don't happen if no card is in the camera."

 

So it looks like removing the card it's not really necessary, but if not, in some occasions some settings can revert the output just to 720p.

Do you have tested it?

 

Cheers,


Rui Guerra
Underwater Photography
http://www.photoguerra.net

#14 buddy

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Posted 27 December 2013 - 01:27 PM

"....when media is inserted and REC is pressed..."

 

when REC on the Nikon is not pressed then nothing changes to the live view output of HDMI which is a full HD signal if set so before in the user settings, believe me. They only say that because of the user who may accidentally press the rec button in the camera as he  is used to do so. just don't do it and you are fine. I have done video recordings on the ninja and also made pictures during the very same dive...

 

"...but there are things you can do if a card is in the camera that'll reset the HDMI output to 720P that don't happen if no card is in the camera..." those things are pressing the rec button on the camera....Tom does not really know here what he is speaking of...he is not into video really....


Juerg
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#15 buddy

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Posted 27 December 2013 - 01:52 PM

ok here ar the exact on-air weights (in gramms):

 

ninja2 with 2 standard battery packs:  514

DNC-N housing with cables to bulkhead: 963

LCD-hood: 100

1 SSD: 137

subtotal: 1714

 

to be added the following: 

ball screw on DNC-N: 198

clamp: 188

housing ball srew: 42

bulkhead and internal HDMI cables (within camera housing): 100 (approximate, not measured)

total additional: 528

 

grand total approx. 2.2 kg

 

If Nauticam speaks of around 1.0 Kg then it is only the ninja housing, I guess.

 

To counterbalance the additional weight (and some of the negative buoyancy I had before already on my setup) i have added 2 of the new Nauticams' carbon arm floats. Each of them give me around 250 g of a lift underwater.

 

see: http://www.nauticam....&sid=21&ssid=60

 

After this it is pretty even in buoyancy.

 

regards,


Juerg
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Nikon D4s, Nikon 16-35 /f4 VR II, 70-180,105mm f/2.8, Subal ND4 housing and ports, 2 Subtronic Fusion (flash and video lights), Sigma 15mm /f2.8, Subal 4" Minidome


#16 EspenRekdal

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Posted 27 December 2013 - 03:12 PM

Rui,

 

To answer your question about ergonomics, Juerg pretty much got it right. When I start my dive I usually set to monitor, then press display mod and enable focus-peaking and zebras before going back out of the display mod. This is a one per dive setup and record standby is done on the most accessible button on the housings bottom right. You could get away with shooting both video and stills too as long as you only use live view for video (photo live view will change the video size etc) and as long as you don't press the record button on the camera. I have used the camera to do both on occasion, but I find the optimal setup for both (photo and video) is difficult to combine.

 

The camera will work with the cards loaded and you will be able to record video at the correct resolution provided you don't also hit the cameras record button. If you do, you will have to restart the ninja.. thats all!

 

Happy snappin!

 

E. 


Edited by EspenRekdal, 27 December 2013 - 03:14 PM.

Nikon D4, D3s, D2x, etc etc.. Nauticam housing, Inon z240s, Subtronic Mega Cs and housed Nikon Sb900s...

#17 Rui_Guerra

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Posted 27 December 2013 - 03:24 PM

Thanks Buddy!

 

Your posts were very informative and clear. It makes sense.

And thanks a lot for the added work weighting all the parts: really helpful.

 

Cheers,


Rui Guerra
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#18 Rui_Guerra

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Posted 27 December 2013 - 03:34 PM

Hi Espen,

 

Thanks for you answer. Now everything is crystal clear to me :-)

 

I agree with you that is somehow difficult to achieve a (very) good setup to do both video and stills in the same dive, but that doesn't stop me from trying :-)

Quite often I dive with the Subal ND800, two Subtronic Alpha Pros and two Light & Motion Sola 4000…and now I'm trying to add the monitor…we'll see. But I've already made a quick release system for the two video lights at the same time, so if needed I can release them out of the way quite easily.

 

All the best,


Rui Guerra
Underwater Photography
http://www.photoguerra.net

#19 Rui_Guerra

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Posted 27 December 2013 - 04:09 PM

BTW, Espen and Buddy, do you know where can I buy the Dive and See products in Europe?

In their website there isn't any information on this.

 

Thanks! 


Edited by Rui_Guerra, 27 December 2013 - 04:09 PM.

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#20 buddy

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Posted 27 December 2013 - 06:06 PM

Espen, thanks for the hint; I checked the problem was caused by a defaulted HDMI cable. i gonna have to change it.

 

Rui, no I think you should order directly at Dive and See... good luck


Juerg
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Nikon D4s, Nikon 16-35 /f4 VR II, 70-180,105mm f/2.8, Subal ND4 housing and ports, 2 Subtronic Fusion (flash and video lights), Sigma 15mm /f2.8, Subal 4" Minidome