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GH4 - Nauticam Macro Lens/Port Thoughts


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#61 Interceptor121

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Posted 25 August 2014 - 01:26 PM

Hi Peter,

what about the Oly 12-40/2.8 ?

I have used it with the ZEN170II with good results. There is another thread where you can see how close you can go with that combo.

Olympus lenses are not stabilised. This can be a problem at long focal lengths


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#62 peterbkk

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Posted 25 August 2014 - 09:34 PM

Olympus lenses are not stabilised. This can be a problem at long focal lengths


Very true.

Lack of stabilisation can also be a problem for Close-Up wide-angle shots as the impact of any camera movement is obvious for any very close subjects, even against a wide background.

For underwater video, buffeted by water movement, stabilisation is always important, with the only exception being WA shots where the subject is more than a meter away, in which case, the relative impact of camera movement is much less. With WA shots of fish and people, often the subject is synchronised by the same water movement.

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Peter

#63 paratom

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Posted 25 August 2014 - 10:30 PM

Very true.

Lack of stabilisation can also be a problem for Close-Up wide-angle shots as the impact of any camera movement is obvious for any very close subjects, even against a wide background.

For underwater video, buffeted by water movement, stabilisation is always important, with the only exception being WA shots where the subject is more than a meter away, in which case, the relative impact of camera movement is much less. With WA shots of fish and people, often the subject is synchronised by the same water movement.

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Peter

I forgot!. I use it with the EM1 which has sensor stabilization.  



#64 peterbkk

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Posted 03 September 2014 - 05:57 PM

I just got back from 4 days of excellent diving in Lembeh with the GH4.

I haven't had time to do a proper edit but I know that some of you are interested in how the macro lens combinations worked in the real world. So, I quickly pulled together a few examples. They have not been graded, stabilized or adjusted in anyway.

Here is the equipment that I used.

Panasonic GH4 set to C4K 24fps, 1/50 Shutter Priority, PinPoint Focus-AFL/AEL
Nauticam NA-GH4 Housing
Lens: Panasonic Lumix 14-45mm PZ
Nauticam System 35 Port with Flip Holder
Subsee +5 Macro Diopter
Inon UWL100 +10 Macro Diopter
iTorch 7 - 5000 lumen lights x 2 mainly on 1/4 or 1/2 power

The footage was imported into FCPX, some samples quickly selected, then exported as a 4K Mov file. The 4K file was compressed into 1080P before uploading to Vimeo



On a large monitor, the 4K footage looks great. So, I'm happy with the macro set-up. The Subsee +5 is excellent for larger subjects and the Inon +10 works for little stuff.

The Lembeh Sea Dragon at the start of the sample footage is so tiny that it kept "disappearing" and I had to find it again - like a tiny piece of string with a small knot on the end. I shot that with the +10 Inon.

The red Starry Night Octopus was a big fellow - about the size of a football. The wider whole-body shots were done with just the 14-45mm lens (at the 14mm end of the zoom), but the close-up on the eye was shot with the Subsee +5.

The blue-ring was also the +5 with the 14-45mm zoomed to about 35mm.

What would I change? Not much. It works well. It'd be great if I had a double-flip adapter so I did not need to take off the +5 and put on the +10 for the really little stuff but that's mainly a Lembeh issue and i may find that the +5 works for most stuff elsewhere.

Regards
Peter

PS. Next week I'm off to Komodo to put the 7-14mm / Zen 170mm through its paces.

#65 ScubaBob

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Posted 03 September 2014 - 06:58 PM

Good stuff Peter! I need to get back to Asia-Pacific soon!

 

Seems like the OIS of the 14-42 PZ helped alot on the hand-held stuff. What was the working distance of the camera with the 2 diopters?


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#66 Interceptor121

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Posted 03 September 2014 - 10:19 PM

Good stuff Peter! I need to get back to Asia-Pacific soon!
 
Seems like the OIS of the 14-42 PZ helped alot on the hand-held stuff. What was the working distance of the camera with the 2 diopters?

I guess you mean separately as stacked that may become zero
I did some tests of the inon lens time Ucl100 | Search Results | Interceptor121 Underwater Photo & Video Blog
http://interceptor12...0&submit=Search

It behaves differently to other close up lenses and you can keep it on pretty much from one foot to 4" zooming in
Those are distances from the back of the lens so take around 1" 1/4 off to the front

I don't have experience with the subsee if it is like a traditional lens would work 8" to around 6" at full zoom for that lens. Results for closer working distance will change lens by lens whilst focus at infinity will be dictated by the lens itself
But again the inon doesn't follow this rule at wide end !

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#67 ScubaBob

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Posted 03 September 2014 - 11:06 PM

No I mean in practice (not theory) with the 14-42mm PZ, and definitely not stacked.

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#68 peterbkk

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Posted 04 September 2014 - 05:48 AM

No I mean in practice (not theory) with the 14-42mm PZ, and definitely not stacked.

Oh dear. I'm sorry but I didn't take much notice of distances. I mainly decided which macro lens to use based on size of critter;
- smaller than a nudibranch: use the +10;
- nudibranch or bigger: use the +5;
- establishing MS: no diopter, zoom out to about 15mm and shoot from about a couple of feet away.

(I'm more right brain than left brain)

From memory, with the +10 and the zoom at about 30-35mm, I was shooting from about 2 to 4 inches from the subject.

With the +5, I used a wider range of zoom, using from 20mm to about 35mm, shooting from about 4 to 8 inches, I think.

When I dive Cannibal Rock next week (a great macro site in Komodo), I'lll try to pay more attention to distances....

Regards
Peter

Edited by peterbkk, 04 September 2014 - 05:51 AM.


#69 Interceptor121

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Posted 04 September 2014 - 12:09 PM

No I mean in practice (not theory) with the 14-42mm PZ, and definitely not stacked.

Practice pretty much equals theory, the only difference is with regards to the focus point of the camera

There are formulas you can use that give you working distances depending on focus distance, and dioptre power

Example +5 lens zoom 21-42mm focus distance 0.3m or 0.98ft working distance 4.72" - 7.87"  in practice those are less as you need to account for the close up lens itself

+10 lens zoom range 2.95" - 3.94" 

Those are similar to Peter on the field observation, in practical terms you won't be able to put a ruler down unless you are in the pool but what you know is enough to make decisions

When you change the zoom range the focus distance of the lens changes (goes to 0.25m) so the lens gets more range

Depending on depth of field you will also be able to use or not the lens more easily, if you have too little DOF you could have only 1 mm in focus and this is not acceptable so you have to be careful pushing the lens to the extreme limits

In real life I choose the stronger diopter based on subject size and ability to focus then work back other close up lenses to cover different sizes subjects and all possible working distances back to the bare lens.

Peter choice covers pretty much everything another option is to add an additional 2.5/3 diopter to cover also between 8-16 inches but this is not essential although it will give you a more pleasant portrait if you shoot at full zoom compared to wide end and getting closer


Edited by Interceptor121, 04 September 2014 - 12:13 PM.

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#70 ScubaBob

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Posted 04 September 2014 - 03:09 PM

Practice pretty much equals theory, the only difference is with regards to the focus point of the camera

And where it's not is when you introduce flip filter holders, distance between port and lens, crop factor etc. I'm not requesting precise measurements, but I know how to read blogs and understand the theory and sciences TYVM.

 

 

Oh dear. I'm sorry but I didn't take much notice of distances. I mainly decided which macro lens to use based on size of critter;
 

No worries Peter, I'm not curious down to the mm, just an idea of how close you had to be (I'm usually about 6-8" with my 12-50mm in macro mode). I think the working distance, is 2"-18" from the end of the port.


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#71 Interceptor121

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Posted 04 September 2014 - 10:12 PM

From what I have seen the working distance using diopters underwater pretty much starts from the back of the glass of the close up lens so if you take out the lens length you know what the working distance at infinity will be. From there how much you can get closer depends on the camera lens and focus distance however this is usually a small range less than one inch

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#72 Nick Hope

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Posted 15 October 2014 - 03:29 AM

...

What would I change? Not much. It works well. It'd be great if I had a double-flip adapter so I did not need to take off the +5 and put on the +10 for the really little stuff but that's mainly a Lembeh issue and i may find that the +5 works for most stuff elsewhere.

...
 

 

Peter, are you aware of the Saga Dive Dual Flip Lens Holder 67mm? It would seem to fit the bill.



#73 peterbkk

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Posted 15 October 2014 - 03:38 AM

 

Peter, are you aware of the Saga Dive Dual Flip Lens Holder 67mm? It would seem to fit the bill.

 

 

Good recommendation.  I'll take a look at it.