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Red Focus Light

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#1 lawrenced

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Posted 17 August 2014 - 12:17 PM

I just got my Fix Neo with a red focus light and have experimented (on land). I set the red focus light and used the YS-D1 strobes set at TTL and made the shot. The images still have a red tinge. Is there a method to avoid this red tinge or should I not use the red focus light. I always thought the strobes would wash out the red.  BTW I'm using the optical connection on both the strobes with each one connected to the bulkhead housing of the Nauticam 70D. 

 

On another topic speaking of YS-D1 - why do they show in the manual to connect one strobe to the bulkhead and the other optical cord to the other YS-D1 strobe rather than connecting both the optical cords to the two optical connections on the bulkhead? Thanks for your input.



#2 divengolf

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Posted 27 August 2014 - 03:09 PM

I connect both D1s directly to my housing without problem. Each is connected via a separate FO cable to a single FO bulkhead. Using an Aquatica housing with a D7000.

Never had a problem.

#3 Interceptor121

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Posted 28 August 2014 - 01:00 AM

I just got my Fix Neo with a red focus light and have experimented (on land). I set the red focus light and used the YS-D1 strobes set at TTL and made the shot. The images still have a red tinge. Is there a method to avoid this red tinge or should I not use the red focus light. I always thought the strobes would wash out the red.  BTW I'm using the optical connection on both the strobes with each one connected to the bulkhead housing of the Nauticam 70D. 

 

On another topic speaking of YS-D1 - why do they show in the manual to connect one strobe to the bulkhead and the other optical cord to the other YS-D1 strobe rather than connecting both the optical cords to the two optical connections on the bulkhead? Thanks for your input.

The first issue may have to do with power and shutter speed

 

The second question is more interesting

If you connect two strobes independently they will both try and do TTL, if you connect one strobe to another one will be the master

Usually for wired connection there could be a lag issue plus some other electrical overload that may fry the strobes so the suggestion is to connect one electrical and the other optical so that there is a clear master

Even on Inon manual it says this is the best way, I believe this may have something to do with X sync speed and predictability

 

What is the benefit of connecting with sync cord to you?


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#4 Draq

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Posted 28 August 2014 - 04:40 AM

As to the red tinge, it depends somewhat on the brightness of the red focus light, but generally you will need to keep shutter speed at or faster than 1/125 to cut out the ambient red light.   With lower brightness of course, it is easier to eliminate that ambient red light.  I use a red focus light quite a bit at night and find it helpful with skittish animals.  I try to use the dimmest light possible.

 

I don't use the S&S strobes but believe you can connect each strobe to the housing via the "slave sensor" and not use the "additional strobe" socket OR you can connect one strobe to the housing and run the other as an additional strobe.  I don't know the benefit of one method over the other.   Maybe someone with YS strobes can provide more illumination.  (Pardon the pun)



#5 JackConnick

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Posted 28 August 2014 - 02:29 PM

Red will usually disappear around 1/80-1/100th.

 

Connect both to the housing, otherwaise you'll be swimming with a kelp trap with a wire between the strobes.

 

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