Just looking for a little advice on how to position strobes for use with a fish eye lens. Recently puechased a Nikon 16mm FE and will be using it with my D70 in an Ike housing. I will be using a a SINGLE strobe.A Sea nad Sea ys 90 dx. Second strobe will be coming for x mas...I hope!. Anyway, what have you had good luck with?. Also...What camera settings would you recommend. Im new to this wide angle stuff...so please bear with me. Thanks alot.
Strobe positioning for fish eye lens
Started by ZebraMussel, Nov 13 2004 09:28 AM
4 replies to this topic
#2
SeaDogDiver
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- Member
- 103 posts
Wolf Eel
- Location:Chicago, IL USA
Posted 13 November 2004 - 11:05 AM
This is a great site and may give you some ideas:
Cheers,
Sieg
Cheers,
Sieg
#3
Kelpfish
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- Industry
- 1505 posts
Giant Squid
- Location:California
Posted 13 November 2004 - 02:39 PM
Kelpfish.net gives a good visual example. However, depending on the strobe, I actually bring the strobes in close to the camera (about a foot on either side) and point them outward, using the beam angle to light the subject. The kelpfish site does not show this but their insinuation to light the subject with the edge of the bean is right on. it helps to reduce backscatter as well.
Joe
Joe
#4
Peter Schulz
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- Industry
- 468 posts
Manta Ray
- Location:Boca Raton, Florida
Posted 14 November 2004 - 06:23 AM
I find positioning my strobe for my 10.5mm lens to be a challenge since I take two different types of shots with the lens i.e. wide angle shots of large critters and close focus wide angle fish portraits. And because I have no control over my subjects I can't use two different strobe placements. Add particles to the water and the challenge exponentiates.
What seems to work best for this scenario is mounting my strobes back about 9' to 12" which also brings them in. My reason for moving them back is to cut the extreme intensity in the region between the lens and the subject and thus reduce featruring the particles in this area. Perhaps angling them out would also help.
What also helps is accepting that my goal is to only paint the subject with light in the center area of the frame i.e. not attempt to light the whole frame. This goal produces good results in most cases, the exception being full frame subjects e.g. ships engine rooms, propellers, and reef structure shots.
What seems to work best for this scenario is mounting my strobes back about 9' to 12" which also brings them in. My reason for moving them back is to cut the extreme intensity in the region between the lens and the subject and thus reduce featruring the particles in this area. Perhaps angling them out would also help.
What also helps is accepting that my goal is to only paint the subject with light in the center area of the frame i.e. not attempt to light the whole frame. This goal produces good results in most cases, the exception being full frame subjects e.g. ships engine rooms, propellers, and reef structure shots.
Nikon D70 with Nikkor 10.5, 18-70, 60mm & Sigma 15mm lenses in Ikelite housing with 2 Ikelite DS 125s.
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#5
ZebraMussel
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- Member
- 38 posts
Triggerfish
Posted 14 November 2004 - 06:50 AM
Thanks for the valuable info. When shooting VERY close wide angle,should I consider my strobe placement similar to shooting macro?
