Wearing a drysuit and shooting macro
#21
Posted 08 March 2005 - 06:47 PM
Cheers,
Marli
www.marliwakeling.com
Duct tape is like the force. It has a light side, a dark side, and it holds the universe together. ~Carl Zwanzig
#22
Posted 08 March 2005 - 11:16 PM
Rand is absolutely right. Use your BC only in an emergency. The idea that someone is promoting multiple buoyancy use is terrifying.
Well,
It all kinda depends. If you carry twin steel 15 liter tanks for backgas and two 7 liter alu's for deco you will find that doing all your boyancy with the drysuit only is not such a good idea after all. The amount of weight you lose during a dive can sometimes be amazing...
While I agree that initially having only one boyancy device in use definitely makes life much easier, using both is not by any means dangerous. Just a matter of practice. In fact, I have found photography (or any other UW activity like laying line in mineshafts etc. for that matter) incredibly easier after learning to use both BC and drysuit for boyancy, especially when carrying a lot of kit for the "bigger" dives.
YMMV.
timo
#23
Posted 09 March 2005 - 12:37 AM
Tom
Thomas C. Kline, Jr., Ph. D.
Oceanography & Limnology
Canon Eos-1Ds MkII and Nikon D1X, D2X, D2H cameras. Lens focal lengths ranging from 8 to 180mm for UW use. Seacam housings and remote control gear. Seacam 150D and 250D, Sea&Sea YS250, and Inon Z220 strobes.
www.flickr.com/photos/tomkline/
#24
Posted 09 March 2005 - 10:56 AM
I think we should add in "degree of difficulty" points for cold water shooting on the contests!
I disagree that using both the BC and drysuit for buoyancy is dangerous or something. Just using the suit is old doctrine and results in huge bubble that roll around your back and throw you off. I just loose the air in my BC first as I continue the dive and vent the air in my suit as I come up. I've left my vent all the way open most of the time on walls and whatever with no problem.
Best advice is to dive the rig and get yourself horizontal, with a bubble or two in your wing to keep your head up at the beginning of the dive. Have a friend look at you and maybe take some ankle weights and move them around on your rig up and down to achieve trim. Adjust your tank and plate as necessary.
I would do this without a camera, in fact I would dive at least 25 dives without a camera at all to make sure using the suit is second nature. It's easy to get task loaded.
Then add the camera and move some weights a bit to compensate. I've put 2x 2# inside my undergarment and pockets with good results. For god's sake get rid of the ankle weights; all you are doing is tiring yourself out and digging a trench.
Jack
Optical Ocean Sales.com Sea & Sea, Olympus, Ikelite, Athena, Zen, Fix, Nauticam, Aquatica, Gates, 10Bar, Light & Motion, iTorch/I-DAS & Fantasea Line -
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#25
Posted 09 March 2005 - 08:35 PM
Tom
Thomas C. Kline, Jr., Ph. D.
Oceanography & Limnology
Canon Eos-1Ds MkII and Nikon D1X, D2X, D2H cameras. Lens focal lengths ranging from 8 to 180mm for UW use. Seacam housings and remote control gear. Seacam 150D and 250D, Sea&Sea YS250, and Inon Z220 strobes.
www.flickr.com/photos/tomkline/
#26
Posted 09 March 2005 - 09:51 PM
I don't buy the single air bladder as an absolute. I started this way, but once I became more comfortable in a dry suit, I found that I was a lot more stable using only enough air in the suit for squeeze. I typically add a little bit of air in my BC as I get below 40 feet or so.
I you need a lot of air, you are probably overweighted. New dry suit divers typically pile on the weight because they add way too much air to their suits and then can't get it all out as they ascend.
As for the ankle weights, this varies widely. Don't be afraid to take them off or even move them up to your knees if it helps your trim.
Finally, lots of Northwest divers I know have NEVER used a wetsuit. There is nothing wrong with learning in a drysuit. It may be more work, but your average cold water diver is probably a lot more dedicated and ultimately skilled than the average warm water milktoast.
Dave
#27
Posted 10 March 2005 - 08:33 PM
For the record is was taught never to use the Bc, but I think the person who recommended me that never had a housing underwater with a pair of strobe attached to it, I add just a few bubbles to trim for the camera setup, overall I think there is a lot of good suggestion in this tread, but the consensus is drop the ankle weight if you do not absolutly need them.
A little modification I did to my dry was to move the exhaust valve to my left forearm, thus giving me an easier access to it, remember that double flash housing in your right hand!, I think in the end dry suit is a personnal appproach, if it work for you and it is safe why not, there is a lot more variant in my opinion in dry than wet suits, material variation and/or combination, not to mention undergarment thickness, make the winning recipe for everyone impossible. But I'm glad your going dry James, the next step is to get you under the ice when you come up to visit Aquatica.
Cheers
www.vizart.ca
www.aquatica.ca
Aquatica Pro Digital housings for D-300s, AF 10-20mm, AF 10-17mm, AF 14MM, AF 17-35mm, af 17-70mm, AF 20MM, AF 60MM, AF 105MM, 2x Ikelite Ds 160, and TLC arms exclusively
#28
Posted 11 March 2005 - 05:56 AM
#29
Posted 11 March 2005 - 06:37 AM
Weight yourself so you can get to the bottom and get horizontal. Have your buddy move your weights around until you can do this without effort. You can also play around with the total amount of weight you carry so you will not be overweighted. And I think you will find that after doing some diving that you will fine tune this placement of weights even further.
Some things that I have found matter to my weight situation: Fins. My fins are old Jet Fins and are heavy. I don't wear ankle weights. Drysuit. How my suit fits, what it's made of and size and material the built in booties are made of. Weight belt/trim system. I love my DUI weight trim system. It puts the weight down near my hips which helps the balance. Camera and housing. My new housing for the D70 weighs 8 lbs on land with no camera! I took a couple of pounds of lead off.
But try the pool thing, it really helps to get you started. Try hanging upside down and then righting yourself. I frequently turn myself upside down while diving to put air in my booties. I have lead feet and have to watch to make sure they don't stir up the bottom.
Best,
Kathy
Nikon D300 with 60 mm & 16 mm lens, SEA&SEA Housing, Sea&Sea YS110 Strobes
#30
Posted 11 March 2005 - 08:17 AM
I'm not a rank newbie, either to diving, or photography. I've got a BC that is perfectly tuned for my diving style. I can hang motionless in just about any position, when diving wet.
This trip was my second time diving dry. My first trip was in much colder water in California. I've not done 8 drysuit dives and I think I have the hang of it - I just need some fine tuning w.r.t. holding rock-steady in the water while I line up a macro shot - something that most people have trouble doing in just a wetsuit.
I appreciate everyone's feedback in this thread. I've certainly learned a lot and I see a few areas where I can improve my trim. Any and all further feedback is MUCH appreciated.
Cheers
James
Dual Ikelite Strobes
Photo site - www.reefpix.org
#31
Posted 11 March 2005 - 09:05 AM
I guess if I wanted to buy yet more *($% I could get some gaiters instead...
Yeah, I tried ankle weights once recently (lent out my gators for a dive) and can't imagine using them again. The gators do such a better job of keeping air minimized from the knees down, and you don't "feel" them at all.
Felt like I was wearing steel boots with the ankle weights.
#32
Posted 11 March 2005 - 09:16 AM
Having one source of buoyancy to control is not old fashioned - it is safer and in my opinion should whenever possible be restricted to the suit only.... If you carry weights around inside your suit then you are an accident waiting to happen.
Whatever. I see newbies who can't achieve trim because they have too much air in the suit. They overweight themselves because of it. A suit is a suit - not a buoyancy device. PADI and others still teach only using the suit and that method, while ok for newbies, is outmoded with backplates and the newer methods of achieving trim.
The 2 2# soft weights I used inside my pockets were just that; way down inside my thigh pockets of a stretch undergarment. With slight squeeze on they never moved at all. I don't use them that way now, but they gave just a little trim lower on my body. While an unusual idea, the trim was in a good place. 4# isn't going to hurt anyone, even if they were on one foot.
I'm certainly not an accident waiting to happen (and resent that depiction, we are having a polite discussion here), dove probably 150 or more dives that way in all sorts of conditions, night, boat, shore, very poor viz, very high current - you name it. Have 500 dives in the same sort of conditions here in the Pacific NW and Canada and 9 countries around the world.
Jack
Optical Ocean Sales.com Sea & Sea, Olympus, Ikelite, Athena, Zen, Fix, Nauticam, Aquatica, Gates, 10Bar, Light & Motion, iTorch/I-DAS & Fantasea Line -
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#33
Posted 11 March 2005 - 11:40 AM
Oh, don't get me wrong, I've tried the pool - I even took PADI's trysuit course. My drysuit is pretty oldfashioned and it has big fat legs and built in rubber booties. It is a plain-jane Mares tri-lam suit, but it fits me pretty well and was inexpensive enough that I could see buying it even for a few trips a year. The feet and legs from the knee down hold a LOT of air. I tried trimming in the pool and even from a totally horizontal position, I couldn't keep the feet down and do a fin pivot. Hence the ankle weights. I guess if I wanted to buy yet more *($% I could get some gaiters instead...
Cheers
James
James it sounds like the suit doesn't fit well on the legs. I would suggest the gaters or getting the suit re-cut a bit. Possibly wearing an extra set of long johns, socks or something might help. I've also used Dr Scholls pads in my boots. Another tip is to try wearing 'fin keepers" they are those triangular rubber band thingys over your boot/fin at the ankle; they will act like a gater to keep air from your boot and are cheap.
A good shop should be able to improve it. Otherwise you'll just be fighting it. The ankle weights are fixing the symptoms not the cure...they will cause other problems and tire you out.
Jack
Optical Ocean Sales.com Sea & Sea, Olympus, Ikelite, Athena, Zen, Fix, Nauticam, Aquatica, Gates, 10Bar, Light & Motion, iTorch/I-DAS & Fantasea Line -
Cameras, Housings, Strobes, Arms, Trays & Accessories
Blog & Gallery: Optical Ocean: Above & Below
Flickr Gallerys: Optical Ocean on Flickr
#34
Posted 11 March 2005 - 05:05 PM
Welcome to the world of drysuit diving. I use a DUI Tech200 crushed neoprene. Don't think I'll ever change. As for buoyancy, weight, as you have heard is important. Not enough can ruin your whole day, making you flop for every ounce of movement. One question. Are you opening your shoulder valve all the way? If you do and then you bump it or even close it somewhat and forget, adding air to the drysuit can cause exactly what you are experiencing. It's the same as being underweighted. I sometimes close my valve a bit to get that lift at the end of the dive, then open it as I reach the surface, then switch to the BC after that. There is still room to be clumbsy. Any trapped air will move inverse to your desired positiong, especially the legs. I usually get vertical, make sure the valve is open and try to let the water pressure vent out the excess air to maximize my movement capabilities. When I am shooting macro, I leave that shoulder valve wide open.
Hope this helps.
Joe
Author, Catalina Island - All you Need to Know
www.californiaunderwater.com
www.visitingcatalina.com
#35
Posted 12 March 2005 - 08:32 AM
As for ankle weights, I don't use them; however, I have a DUI with sock feet for rock boots (or wetsuit boots, which is what I use these days) over them, so there's no air pocket. Unless I'm on a wall, I shoot macro feet up, so having minimal air in the suit to begin with, and eliminating air around my feet helps alot. I don't have to make any buoyancy adjustments when I change positions from hovering to shooting.
My suggestion would be to minimize the air you need in the suit (even if you choose to use the suit for buoyancy), so evaluate your weighting. The negativity of your camera will also affect both the amount of buoyancy compensation you need, as well as your trim. You might take a look at neutralizing the buoyancy of your rig. I have floats on my rig, since I don't like having my camera as part of my weighting system! (starting from an RS, this was a big consideration!) Since the problem seems to be mainly around the feet, try gaitors, or you might consider retrofitting your suit with better fitting boots, or with sock feet, to eliminate any large air space. More ankle weight is not a great solution, as it causes other issues.
#36
Posted 12 March 2005 - 09:15 AM
Solutions I would recommend that made me more comfortable.
Distributing weight, put the weight where you think you need it. This can be done with many devices, ankle weights, harness, extra weight belt around top of tank (my favourite) Once you have it distributed is when i trimmed the weight as I could feel which bits had too much and which had not enough .. thats my two cents
Oh and some people like to be weight nazi's in dry suits as well as in the tropical areas. Even though I too like diving with as little weight as possible, it is not always right for everyone, so remember .. don't be afraid to add some if thats what it feels like just because it seems like too much weight .. you know what you are doing, you know how it is meant to feel .. so do what feels right for you. I personnally dive with a lot of weight in drysuits cause i like a lot of air, in fact often my suit was filled so much when i was verticle the air would come out the neck guarenteed ... but i had good bouyancy and the air kept me snuggly buggly.
#37
Posted 23 March 2005 - 11:08 AM
a course that i recommend for experance divers is a cave/ cavern course. altho this is "tec" it is way better that a bouyance course.
#38
Posted 27 March 2005 - 11:48 PM
anewton.net - UW blog - KAP blog
Victoria Australia. Nikon D7000, Lumix LX3. Ikelite. Inon. GoPro 2
#39
Posted 01 April 2005 - 06:42 PM
Tom
Thomas C. Kline, Jr., Ph. D.
Oceanography & Limnology
Canon Eos-1Ds MkII and Nikon D1X, D2X, D2H cameras. Lens focal lengths ranging from 8 to 180mm for UW use. Seacam housings and remote control gear. Seacam 150D and 250D, Sea&Sea YS250, and Inon Z220 strobes.
www.flickr.com/photos/tomkline/
#40
Posted 03 May 2005 - 10:33 PM
2 Aquatica f/3 housings
Nikon film f/5's and f/3's cameras
Way to many strobes to list
All that Nikonos junk
and now a subal d300 setup
Still a film divasourus with a baby toe in digital world
