12 replies to this topic

[Nemo]

I have been shooting large subjects (shipwrecks) with ok results with 2 camera mounted strobes. (DX90's) The camera is a C4040 in a Tetra with the Inon 100 degree lens. I am considering adding a 3rd slave strobe that could be used off camera to better light distant portions of the subject. I have been looking at Ikes Sub400 which has the slave built in, but I am concerned about the directional ability of the slave sensor since I dont think it can be aimed independently of the strobe itself. Anyone have any experience with this lighting technique and have any other suggestions for a strobe/slave.

[davephdv]

400 dosen't have a built in slave sensor. You have to use Ikes excellent TTL slave sensor which can be manipulate to aim any direction. The 400 might be the most powerfull strobe you can get but remmeber no strobe will illuminate much more than 6 ft in front of itself.

[Nemo]

According to Ikes website the 400 has a built in slave. The only strobe in the line that way.

[davephdv]

400 has a built in aiming light, but not a slave. Suggest you reread Ike's web site. Even if it did you could still attach the TTL sensor which can be aimed any direction. Suggest you e-mail Ike if you aren't convinced.

[Nemo]

I checked with Ike and you are right. They couldnt offer an explanation why their websites comparison chart says it has a slave. I think the site editor will be looking at that today.

Thanks

[ikelite]

SubStrobe 400 does have a slave sensor, but like the slave sensors in a Nikonos strobe, these do NOT provide TTL exposure. Our wireless Sensor does provide TTL and/or manual slave operation.

[Nemo]

Thanks for the info Ike but now you have me confused. I emailed you (your web site form) and the reply I got was no slave sensor. Since I am shooting manual for this type of wide angle image I dont need TTL.

So my original question still applies how directional is the sensor built into the 400?

Thanks again.

[davephdv]

Well, now you have me confused. I read that web site 3 times and didn't get anything about a slave sensor. Still I have to advacate the TTL slave sensor. Infinetly versitile and aimable. Only question I have is the Digital version vs the non digital version (I have both). If I understood the revised instructions properly the digtial can only be used with the d strobes and the non digtial only with the non digital strobes. Also if you want to stop taking down that main battle phaser know as the SS 400 strobe I cann't recommed highly enough the DS 125.

Remmber my original comment that no strobe no matter how powerful will project it's light much more than 6 ft.

[ikelite]

Catalog and web site page do not mention slave sensor. Chart on web site is correct, the 400 has a slave sensor and my engineering types agree. I don't know how to describe directional capability. Our recommendation is the TTL slave sensor which can be aimed at the camera or another strobe even if you are not using TTL.

Gray digital sensor works with the gray digital strobes. Orange #4100 sensor operates with the standard SubStrobe 200 and 400 models. All of this will become even more confusing until the digital revolution stabilizes somewhat.

[Nemo]

Well I did expect this queston to produce more comment than the discussion on whether the Ike 400 had a slave function built in.

Has anyone been using a remote stobe techinque or is everyone shooting in enviroments with a good deal of natural light?

Nemo

[scorpio_fish]

I do not have firsthand knowledge, but some Yucatan cenote divers use Ike 400's with the additional slave sensors. You won't be using TTL anyway. Even if you did, there would be the issue of the SS400 being too powerful relative to your YS90DX.

You're going to need someone to hold the strobe and point the sensor, but it should work fine. You will need the strobe holder to use guide numbers to determine manual power setting from strobe to subject distance. The strobe must held so that it doesn't blast back at your camera. It takes a lot of team work.

[james]

That's how cave divers do Light Painting.

Set up a cam on a tripod with like a 5 min bulb setting.

Open shutter in darkness.

Swim around firing a strobe to illuminate or "paint" various features. You're basically taking 3 or 4 shots and superimposing them.

What you want to do is similar, however you will be taking them all at once... Just think of your 3rd big strobe as a slave that is on REALLY REALLY long strobe arm. My buddy Tim (photo pro on the kona agressor) uses the technique that you are interested in with good results. You can have your diver buddy duck down below a reef and hold the strobe up to illuminate a manta, wreck, etc.

HTH
James

[Nemo]

Okay most of this I know. I have used the techinque w/ B&W filn cameras and have actually used dive lights to fill in what would have been underexposed portions of an image.

When calulating GN's for exposure with the strobe on the camera the strobe to subject distance is nearly the same as the cameras. When using a remote strobe does the greater difference in the stobe to subject vs. camera to subject distance need to be considered?

Bear in mind that most of these images are of wrecks and "landscapes" in northern waters (Great lakes, North Atlantic, and North Sea). Vis is good 45 - 85 feet but it isnt like ceynotes or some tropical dives.