Basically, how is it done? Just saw some awesome pictures over on scubadiving.com with the sun rays shinning through some kelp and it got me thinking...I've never been able to get the rays to show like that and I've tried lots of different things to do it...
stopping sun rays?
Started by luminary, Oct 23 2002 05:40 AM
6 replies to this topic
#1
Posted 23 October 2002 - 05:40 AM
Matt
#2
Posted 23 October 2002 - 07:10 AM
You absolutely MUST have a shutter speed over 1/90th or even 1/125th to get sun rays.
You won't get good sun rays on a cloudy day (duh) and a little bit of surface chop will help (creates "lensing" of light through curved seasurface).
HTH
James Wiseman
You won't get good sun rays on a cloudy day (duh) and a little bit of surface chop will help (creates "lensing" of light through curved seasurface).
HTH
James Wiseman
Canon 1DsMkIII - Seacam Housing
Dual Ikelite Strobes
Photo site - www.reefpix.org
Dual Ikelite Strobes
Photo site - www.reefpix.org
#3
Posted 24 October 2002 - 06:16 AM
Cool...I'm usually shooting at a bit slower than 1/125...I'm diving this weekend so I'll give it a go!
Thanx.
Thanx.
Matt
#4
Posted 24 October 2002 - 06:44 PM
For film you must shoot ar 1/125th or 1/250th. With digital you need to keep the sun out of the photo due to the blown highlights factor.
Dave Burroughs, Nikon D300, D2X, Subal housing, DS160 strobes
Life is a beach and then you dive.
My Website
Life is a beach and then you dive.
My Website
#5
Posted 24 October 2002 - 08:07 PM
Here's a shot taken w/ the S2 at 1/125 @f8:

Not the best shot, but you get the idea.
Here's what happens w/ the 14mm lens is you direct sunlight hit the front element from the wrong angle:

HTH
James

Not the best shot, but you get the idea.
Here's what happens w/ the 14mm lens is you direct sunlight hit the front element from the wrong angle:

HTH
James
Canon 1DsMkIII - Seacam Housing
Dual Ikelite Strobes
Photo site - www.reefpix.org
Dual Ikelite Strobes
Photo site - www.reefpix.org
#6
Posted 25 October 2002 - 05:19 AM
Set your camera at 1/125 or 1/250. Shoot. If too much sun, stop down as much as possible. The smaller the aperture (i.e. higher number setting) will reduce the size of the sun. It can also create a starburst effect when the aperture is smaller than the sun itself.
Non-SLR digitals (prosumer or consumer as they call it) have a harder time of it due to limited dynamic range of the sensor because of the size of the actual photosite. This limits the total range of light to dark it can show detail in within the frame. If you have any dark areas in your frame, you need to accept that this will have no detail. Treat them as if they were going to be silhouettes.
Non-SLR digitals (prosumer or consumer as they call it) have a harder time of it due to limited dynamic range of the sensor because of the size of the actual photosite. This limits the total range of light to dark it can show detail in within the frame. If you have any dark areas in your frame, you need to accept that this will have no detail. Treat them as if they were going to be silhouettes.
"Me, fail English?.........Unpossible!"
#7
Posted 25 October 2002 - 05:18 PM
When I was a underwater photo newbie, I pointed my Coolpix 950 at the sun in full-auto mode, and got some pretty good results. 
Here's one (taken in Bora Bora, last June):
Here's one (taken in Bora Bora, last June):
Eric Cheng - Administrator, Wetpixel -
