fisheye and crop factor
Posted 06 August 2005 - 04:58 AM
I have several questions concerning the use of fisheyes for over/underwater photography. I am using a 300d in a sea&sea housing.
1. can you generally do reasonable over/unders with a crop factor of 1.6x?
2. does somebody have an example to show the effects one can expect?
3. has someone tried the zenitar MC2.8, 16mm fisheye (I found just one post of someone having problems with it when focussing?
I´d love to read your answers.
Tanks so far,
Posted 06 August 2005 - 07:44 AM
I have shot many split levels with a 16mm fisheye on my Nikon cropped sensor DSLR. I prefer a wider lens - but in good conditions the 16mm is very suitable.
One tip is to shoot verticals rather than horizontals.
Posted 06 August 2005 - 07:58 AM
I haven't done much split level shots since switching to digital, just a sample with just 97° field of view (less than the 15mm):
but yes, I would prefer wider too if it would be possible with my camera
Posted 07 August 2005 - 12:43 AM
Alex, your picture (over/under Nr.1) look like you used a polarizing filter, but I guess that is just good work in photoshop, right?
How do you guys deal with the waterdrops on the domeport? I have tried to use an apple in freshwater, but it didn´t work that good.
Posted 07 August 2005 - 02:20 AM
This picture was taken on slide and the slide looks just like this. The exposure is even above and below because of shooting decisions I made. I chose to shoot when the sun was high so there was as much light as possible underwater. I also chose to take this shot over bright white sand (for the same reason). I also shot with the sun coming from slightly behind me (even sitting here in the UK I know that to get the sun at the right angle I took this shot at about 11:30am on Seven Mile beach on Grand Cayman). And finally the best way to stop droplets on the port is to never get the port wet in the first place. I walked into the water to take this shot and kept the port dry until I dipped the camera to take the shot - so there were no droplets.
To make a general point not directed at you (!), many new photographers make the mistake of thinking that good images must have had special kit or loads of photoshopping. And I think this leads to a lot of people not learning proper technique - never believing that the pros images look great straight from the camera.
Posted 07 August 2005 - 06:28 AM
above and below because of the time the angle decisions that you have made?
Then u say to shoot verticals rather than horizontals.
Is it becauce the camera is more "under & over" and becauce off this exposuse and focus will be more acurate ??
Posted 07 August 2005 - 08:26 AM
Split levels are more difficult in open/deep water as there is more of a difference between the above and below parts of the image. This difference gets greater as you get away from the middle of the day.