12 replies to this topic

[microx]

Hi everybody, just joined up today. I made my first UW housing etc more than thirty years back and it still works. After the usual Nikonos I......IV and other film cameras I know I need to go digital. I would like to start with maybe a housing for my Sony W5 but would like to know if anyone still plays about with dome ports + close up lens attached to simple UW cameras. I still have the machine I made to "blow" ports from acrylic sheet. The ones I made for film cameras worked perfectly. Just cant get the DIY out of my system I guess!
Steve

[acroporas]

While in theory there is an optical advantage to using a dome port for macro, in reality the rest of the system is not good enough to show the difference. Other things are limiting resolution more a flat port, so all you gain is a more complicated housing.

Now wide angle is another story. There domes are very usefull.

[herbko]

I think the only examples of dome ports for consumer digicams are from Inon. Have a look at the inonamerica.com site. Everything is scaled down from SLR's because of the smaller sensor. You can blow a smaller, shorter radius acrylic bubble. They built the dome around their own WA attachment lens and did not need a diopter/closeup lens. I don't know if the lens on the W5 is suitable for WA underwater.

[microx]

Thanks for your replies. Back in the film SLR days I used ports to restore the true focal length of the lens ie a 28mm was 28 not 35. The best results came from a half sphere with the front of the lens sitting past the diameter line of the port. With a 24mm lens and a +2 CU I had no need for a focus control such was the depth of field. My diving equipment now is minimalist and I would like digital set up which is as simple to use as possible and as small as possible too.
I now dont think that the W5 is suitable as it lacks some features I think are important like RAW. If I was looking for a digital camera that had RAW, a decent lens with short focal length, good sized display and controls that would be easy to incorporate in a DIY housing where would you guys point me?
Steve

[Kelpfish]

Soooo, how much doe do you have to spend???

Joe

[microx]

How much to spend?? I might look second hand, say coolpix 5000 or similar so lets say up to $250,
Steve

[herbko]

Thanks for your replies. Back in the film SLR days I used ports to restore the true focal length of the lens ie a 28mm was 28 not 35. The best results came from a half sphere with the front of the lens sitting past the diameter line of the port. With a 24mm lens and a +2 CU I had no need for a focus control such was the depth of field. My diving equipment now is minimalist and I would like digital set up which is as simple to use as possible and as small as possible too.
I now dont think that the W5 is suitable as it lacks some features I think are important like RAW. If I was looking for a digital camera that had RAW, a decent lens with short focal length, good sized display and controls that would be easy to incorporate in a DIY housing where would you guys point me?
Steve

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

The Fuji F810 seem to be the most popular one in this catagory.

[Marc Furth]

I’ve been making my own housings for 15 years and I’m very interested in your dome ports.While I’ve never made my own domes I know it’s very critical and can make or break a good housing design. I’ve used compass domes with good results but the slightest imperfection will cause distortion. With the higher mega pixel cameras it makes sense to use the best ports you can afford, that’s why I use Ikelite domes. Their optical quality, easy to mount, and reasonablely priced. If you get a chance I certainly would appreciate if you would post a picture of your domes and your machine.

Marc

[microx]

Blowing domes is one of those things that are simple to do and a bitch to get right. A rig consists of a flat and very rigid plate onto which you can clamp a plate with a hole in it the diameter that you want the dome to be. From under the rigid plate you introduce compressed air. The plexiglas (perspex) is heated in an oven, suspended vertically with a spring paper clamp. The temp is CRITICAL. Too high and the plastic will melt or burn, too low and it will not be flexible enough to work with, trial and error!!
You need only a few PSI of air which you can get from a LP port on your regulator.If you use too much pressure your dome will rise majestically like an elephants condom so control is also important.The air that enters needs to be diffused, if you have just a jet of air it will cool the plastic in one area and a blemish will result. This took me ages to solve but the best way is a sheet of paper cut in a circle to the internal diameter of the dome less a bit for clearance. The incoming air wafts gently arround the edges and does not cause cool spots.
I will check to see if I can find you a website where you can get more info and also see what I can do with regard to some photos.
Steve

[james]

Holy cow! Someone who makes their own dome ports. I'm going to copy this one to the DIY forum guys. Please continue posting.

Cheers
James

[microx]

The first dome port I used was on a Nikonos II. I was a "wet" fit idea, the dome was made to push over the 35mm lens while underwater. There were some problems with misting up but I got over them.
This is what I am after doing with a digital camera keeping it as simple as possible. I have never made a very small dome, might be interesting. More later
Steve

[herbko]

The first dome port I used was on a Nikonos II. I was a "wet" fit idea, the dome was made to push over the 35mm lens while underwater. There were some problems with misting up but I got over them.
This is what I am after doing with a digital camera keeping it as simple as possible. I have never made a very small dome, might be interesting. More later
Steve

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Is the "wet" fit part just the dome or is it a "bubble" with dome and flat part?

[microx]

It was a dome with a flat port sealed on the back which was a push fit over the lens. I also contained the close up lens. This weekend I will try to take some photos to post.
Steve