Absolutely agree. A +10 diopter would do wonders as there are enough tiny critters that at least i could not see at all unless i looked through the viewfinder with the added diopters. Its a wonder how dive guides spot these.
Attaching a few examples :-) Both images are of the same frogfish.
hi, new to uw photography, i have alot of above water experience and equipment and diving experience, have d810, starting uw with ikelite housing with 105 and 10-17tok, only want to commit to one ds160 strobe to start plus small focus light neo fix sw 1000. i think one strobe will be ok with macro but i am not sure it will be so great with wide angle? 1. did i make a mistake with tokina? vs sigma 15mm - i know it will vignette below 14.5mm.
Like Tim said above, its more suited to DX and not FX 2. using the wide angle would the small focus light add any value to fill shadows or should i set it to turn off when the strobe fires?
Unless you are in a really dark area eg: under a deep over hang or through a cave system etc. you wont need a focus light for wide angle. If you are diving any wrecks you probably will need the focus light. 3. general tips for 1 strobe close focus wide angle?
Keep the strobe on either side of the housing, behind the dome port, pointing slightly outward and not directly at the subject. Sometimes one may be able to point directly also, but it should be behind the dome to avoid flare. Change power settings manually as required. If you want to take CFWA images with a sun-ball in the background, keep the strobe sync to maximum that your camera allows either 1/200, 1/250 or 1/300 and start with an aperture of around f10. For general seascapes, keep the strobe high and straight above the housing. Make sure it is behind the dome and pointing slightly upwards. 4. position for my focus light? - top housing or on other housing arm?
You will probably, as Tim said only need this for macro. Top is best usually, i keep mine on top but to one side of the camera. going to big island hawaii in jan...... thanks