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Member Since 30 Aug 2007
Offline Last Active Mar 25 2008 12:43 PM

Posts I've Made

In Topic: New LED Lights from L&M

11 October 2007 - 01:13 PM

I am interested in buying some new lights for my Gates HC7, so let me try this question again:

What would the beam angle be on both the Sunray 1000 and the 2000?

The angle of the beam for the Sunray 2000 is the same as our 21HID lightheads which has an approximate coverage of 75 degrees. We have an adaptor that will allow you to attach our lights to your housing.

In Topic: New LED Lights from L&M

11 October 2007 - 01:02 PM

Nick heres some answers to your questions.
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Russ/Paul, how about adjusting the light level of these new lights? Are you planning multiple levels without filters so that we can do some stealth low-light shooting at night?

The Sunray 1000 and 2000 will have an adjustable brightness, probably a low, medium and High setting like our Elite lights currently use.

Is the battery pod for the Sunray 2000 going to be a complete redesign? I had 2 mystery floods in the past with your existing pod design, hence the guard that I've built for my Bluefin to protect those wee doors on the front. I think the pod design could do with a bit of beefing up. Also I can rarely get the IR light control from my handgrip to work properly. It's hit or miss and I end up having to use the red buttons on the pods to synchronise the levels of my 2 lights (halogens). Would much prefer a simple 3-position switch and some visual feedback about what light level I'm at without cycling through the levels to find out.

The battery pods will be a different design then our current, we are looking at a more robust and simplistic design than what is currently available from any manufacturer. We are on the same track with a simple switch which I also would prefer and lose the button.

Also I'd love you guys to change cables from Subconn to EO. I've had the steel conductors in your Subconn cables fatigue through a few times at either the cable gland or at the change in diameter at the pod end. Never had that problem with EO connectors on various products I've owned. I think they might be copper rather than steel and so survive the repeated bending better. I've now converted the crimped connection inside the lamp heads to a tiny connector block so it's more easily serviced in the field by replacing or shortening the cables when they fatigue through again.

This is also something we are investigating.

Oh, and I had a lamp head flood completely the other day when a cable gland worked loose without me noticing. That could be improved. It only cost me a new bulb after washing everything out.

And last but not least I'm converting my light arms from Locline to Gorillapod links as the Locline just gets noisier and noisier with age. It's kind of embarrassing and I've recently noticed critters actually flinching when I move my lights. In contrast the similar Gorillapod links are silent. I don't know whether that's because of different material from Locline or the fact that they're less hollow.

The Locline has always been a noisy product, not sure about changing over to something else it would have to be something superior for us to consider changing.

Sorry for all the negative stuff. My L&M halogens are brilliant lights when they're working properly, which is most of the time. Nice wide beam with no hotspots at all, having multiple levels is fantastic, and I've only ever had a bulb fail when the light head flooded or I turned the light on with a hot, very freshly charged battery.

[color="#FF0000"]To answer the question on the angle of the beam for the Sunray 2000 its the same as our 21HID lightheads which has an approximate coverage of 75 degrees.

Will shortly send a fuller report on my Bluefin and lights to Paul as discussed by email.

In Topic: New LED Lights from L&M

08 October 2007 - 02:26 PM

"Luminous efficacy", now there's a term. Does that mean they're brighter?

Love those little reflectors and a proper threaded front to the light head will mean no more snapping in a flimsy bit of gel (like the blue gel I use on my halogens). Should be able to screw on some ND filters for macro night dives.

Looks like they'd make cool topside lights too.

I'll ask Paul what the colour temperature is likely to be.


Paul and I dove the new Sunray 2000 a couple weeks ago here in the Bay on my FX 1 housing and its brighter than any other video light I have used. We did some comparison testing with some of our competitors lights including twin 50W HID lights and the Sunray 2000 was in a league of its own. LED's give you the abitlity to have multiple light levels, instant on/off, longer burntimes and skip across the boat deck durability. We are also testing some cool new "thread on underwater" filters that will allow you to adjust color temperature.

The future is here and I am really excited, all other LED light systems I have tested/own are lacking in output and the quality of the light/reflector just hasnt been comparable to our HID lights. The current temperature of the Sunray 2000 LED's we are testing are 6600 Kelvin, but we have not yet determined the ideal color temperature that we want to speck.

I will keep you guys posted on the test of the new smaller 9 LED Sunray 1000 thats due out soon, it will allow you to use your existing battery pods and will boast longer burntimes, multiple light levels and increased durability like its bigger brother the Sunray 2000.