You can get c-clips from McMaster Carr, but I would call Scott at Bluewater and see if he has one or at least tell you what size it should be. On my EM-1 housing, the fn1 shaft is 2 mm diameter and the total width is 3.9 mm suggesting that the correct c-clip is
This week's People Magazine (Sharon Tate on the cover) had a blurb in things to watch that highlighted DiveFilm HD and the Secret World of Sea Slugs in particular. That video is coincidentally by my wife and Wetpixel member Nannette Van Antwerp. You can see it at dive film HD or at
I think Bokeh is not the appropriate idea here. Bokeh is a characteristic of a lens (not a style). You can shoot shallow depth of field with any lens/camera that will allow it, but as far as I understand it Bokeh means the "pleasingness" of the out of focus areas and has a lot to do with lens design and some magic thrown into it. For a look at how to measure bokeh, take a look at
There is a lot of confusion about the whole TTL universe. As far as I understand it (about 2 cm worth) eTTL is Canon's proprietary TTL system that lets Canon cameras talk to Canon strobes. iTTL is Nikon's version of the same. If you are shooting a Canon camera and using a housed Canon strobe then eTTL works fine (if you have the right electrical connections). Same for Nikon. Neither Canon nor Nikon have published their TTL protocols (they want you to buy their stuff) but several folk have figured out how to emulate Canon and Nikon TTL protocols. If you use electrical sync then there are converters (Weikamp, S&S, Ike) that plug into your cable/hot shoe) and allow you to get TTL functionality from strobes that can speak that version of TTL. If you are using optically fired strobes then you need to emulate TTL (sTTL) for example. This typically works by sending a pre flash from the strobe to the subject then calculating the correct exposure then exposing the scene with the correct strobe duration.
what do you mean by very large and what do you mean by printing on glass. At Glasstec there were several companies that make printers for glass but pricing is ridiculous and mounting can be very problematical. Prints on Aluminum are great, and I can recommend Bay. 40x80 from them are about $700 or so.
For our use at LAUPS, we print on metallic paper (great look) and frame behind glass. Highlights are indeed an issue but colors are really cool and you can get really big prints if you have the right printer.
5 mm full frame is quite small. For the EM-1 camera with a sensor that is 18 mm wide that would mean almost 4 x magnification to get the job done. With the 60 mm lens that would mean with a +10 subsee you have a 2.7 magnification which is still not enough magnification for 5mm full scale. Of course you can crop.
I think that L&M decided to not put any type of capacitor in the charging circuit at least on the early versions, and both terminals have major corrosion on some of my lights. On the L&M page they say
How to remove contact corrosion:
You can make our own cleaning solution by mixing a few drops of 25% vinegar / 75% water. With a small amount of this mixture and small piece of fine steel wool, you can gently remove corrosion and get these battery contacts shining like new!
What is the best way to dry my Sola?
After you have rinsed thoroughly, it is also extremely helpful to dry the light off. Residual water droplets can lurk inside the small space of the charge contacts and cause corrosion.