Any of the NEX or micro 4/3 cameras can be great underwater but if you shoot strobes and a focus light they are not all that much smaller than a DSLR rig by the time you have the arms and batteries and chargers etc.
I have had better luck with the dry heat (the sausages notwithstanding) but I have access to an annealing oven that can control temp quite well. If you do it in water I get best results starting in cold water then heating it up slowly to 95C or so then cooling slowly rather than dip and dunk in already boiling water. Make your mandrel about half the size that you want the ultimate coil to be.Bill
They test out quite nicely compared to normal eneloops (the 2000 mAh ones) and if they start to not charge properly, try running them through the LaCrosse type charger on a refresh cycle. I haven't had to do that with the XX versions yet but with the older style the refresh cycle takes them from 1700 mAh (after a few hundred charge cycles) back to 2000 or so.
There have been a number of Canon flash converters available (Ike, Heinrich's, S&S etc.) so I don't think that is the problem. The problem will be to emulate the electrical signals and turn them into an optical signal. Notoriously hard to do with LED output (quenching them for low power is tough) but I remain hopeful.
I guess I am in the poor minority here, not having any $1200 lenses and in thinking that filters degrade images. I think this is one of the minor things that people debate all the time but I have seen enough (not underwater) filter flare to think of filters like lenscaps, take them off before you take a picture. By the way, most UV filters don't filter much UV and you current lens will pass only a teeny tiny amount of UV anyway, but as Dr. Tim says, underwater it isn't needed anyway.
I didn't do this all the way, but have shot both the 7D/Nauticam and the Sony 5/Nauticam. Results are mostly comparable, the NEX system is quite a bit smaller/lighter and less pull on your arm. The lens choices for NEX are not quite (OK not at all) comparable to the DX universe, but if they fit what you want to shoot, image quality is quite fine. I think that it is a viable switch (same size sensor after all). The NEX 7 has a phenomenal EVF and I think it would make a great system.
Sort of stronger. If you look at comparable beam geometries, I think they are the same. Naked without diffusers, the D1 is stronger but narrower. If you put the diffuser on the D1 to get the same beam spread as the Z240 without its diffusers they are pretty much the same. If you put the stronger diffuser on the D1 and the diffuser on the Z240 they are the same again. That being said, the D1 is about $100 cheaper than the Z240 so that may make your decision for you. Bill
Hi Bill, leds with a bigger angle have been sent to you. I think when the prism is lighted over larger area the fiber will receive more light for the Sea&Sea's ti trigger.
An update is in order. Hedwig has been very helpful in getting this to work. With the Inon strobes there is no problem at all the S2000 and the Z240 all trigger perfectly with the LED trigger. The S&S require a lot more light and the spacing on the board that Hedwig made has the two LED exactly at an inappropriate spacing. Getting LEDs with the same power but a larger viewing angle and putting the LED right on top of the Nauticam prism has solved the problem. It is a bit fiddly to get aligned right but now is working rather well. We did 2 dives last weekend with it and I am taking it to PNG in two weeks. Pictures from the dives soon.