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Kelpfish

Member Since 02 Nov 2003
Offline Last Active Jul 10 2014 09:28 AM
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#336381 My first dives with the Tokina 10-17 and mini dome

Posted by Kelpfish on 28 August 2013 - 04:55 AM

I finally got to use my new Nauticam D7100 system last week and used the Tokina 10-17 and Zen mini dome.  First, I LOVE how it focuses to the port glass.  That sets up your creative juices for sure.  Like other wide angle lenses, your DOF is minimal when you are close.  If you're within a few inches of an animal that has relief (not flat and you want it all in focus) you need to be at F11 or higher.  That's hard to do in darker California water unless you pump up your ISO or shoot at slower shutter speeds than, say, 1/60th (which is common when using fish eye lenses).   I also loved not having that huge Zen 9 inch dome on the housing.  It's pretty nice to be able to move your strobes in closer to the dome to light the subject when you are doing CFWA, but you must ensure to minimize the tussling that kicks up the silt or you will get plenty of back scatter.  On the sheepshead shot I sat still for 40 minutes and essentially didn't move much, allowing the silt that I kicked up to settle.  Test shots were full of junk, but once I had the lighting dialed in I sat and waited for that big male to glide in front of the port.  And it took 40 minutes.  Right when my computer started beeping I took a few more breaths and was ready to give up until I saw out of the corner of my eye that big sheepshead stary to glide slowly into my frame.  I snapped one shot then headed up, so this is the only keeper from that dive.

 

Basically, the same with the garibaldi shot but it was only in 20 feet.  Right near the end of the dive it decided to hoover right in front of the dome, like just 5-6 inches.  Took the shot and like the image. I will be using this lens later this week on a great white shark trip in Guadalupe.  Should fit nicely through the shooting windows on the cage.

 

Bottom line, really a nice set up, much more flexible that the big dome and sharp.

 

Joe

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#333898 Great White Shark cage diving & system to shoot

Posted by Kelpfish on 05 July 2013 - 04:30 AM

Hi all,

 

I am not sure that my Zen 9 inch dome will fit through the cage window openings on a GWS trip on the Horizon.  If that's the case, how would you recommend I use my Zen mini dome? 10-17 with 1.4? I have a FX 16-35, 10-17, and a Nikon 10-24, also a Sigma 15.

 

Of course I'd want to be able to have some mobility for both stills and video.  Shooting a D7100 Nauticam.

 

Any hints would be most welcome.

 

Joe




#333852 Jellyfish Lake Time-lapse

Posted by Kelpfish on 04 July 2013 - 04:53 AM

Well done.  A lot of video in a short production, makes you want more.  By the way, what music did you use? Very relaxing.

 

Joe




#332844 Regulator blow-up

Posted by Kelpfish on 15 June 2013 - 03:00 AM

I just had a similar experience, although just before a dive, where my newly serviced Atomic safe second just ruptured and air just gushed through it.  Luckily I am mr redundant and had a manual inflator assembly with me so dive saved.  it was just serviced, tested in my garage the week before the dive, all worked.  On the boat, kaboom.  Took it back to the dive shop and they were so nonchalant about it, "yea, that happens sometimes, an oring occasionally slips out on these after servicing causing the air to gush out....we'll fix it for you".  No shit.  And bullshit.  I call incompetence and ripped them a new one. 

 

What brand of regulator exploded on you, Bart?

 

Joe




#332799 Nautilus Swell - Images used without permission

Posted by Kelpfish on 14 June 2013 - 04:03 AM

If they are "continuing" to use your images, you need to send a DMCA.  This lady is an expert on copyright law.  We've referenced her in my stock photography forum several times.  http://rising.blacks...own-notice.html

 

If you are trying to collect "back income" the most effective way is to have an attorney do it.  They'll be able to access the parent company and their principals.  Unauthorized use can be easily $1500 an image.  it's possible to fight this battle yourself, but attorneys can be a big help.  I just finished a fight on Ebay where a image pirate was using images of mine for a photo CD he was reselling.  I could not get anywhere with those scum bags at Ebay so I had to get my stock agency involved.  Stuff was taken down not too long after.

 

Good luck.  Social media makes controlling your images very difficult.  Donated images should be accompanied by a big watermark unless they paid for them.

 

Joe




#332750 How experienced a diver do I need to for underwater photography?

Posted by Kelpfish on 13 June 2013 - 04:38 AM

I think these first two bullets are over the top expectations and not needed before taking a camera underwater Chris. Does PADI expect that befor they allow divers to take the PADI Underwater Photographer Course?

 Yes, Andy, that should probably be more around "pays frequent attention to his gauges for depth and time".  I would add:

 

1. Get certified because that in and of itself teaches you things you would not know as a non certified diver (DCS, depth limits, basic gas laws, gear)

2. Get very good at buoyancy control

3. Get very good at navigation, both natural and compass

4. Stay within "comfort" limits - To get more experienced after a number of dives, you will slowly segue into more unfamiliar terrain, deeper water, etc....that's how you get better & more experienced but do it incrementally over time (months, years).  Become very comfortable in the 30-60 foot range first, know your basic skills instinctively.  if you have to do a lot of thinking to recollect skills while diving (what to do) you probably are not ready to move forward to something new and different, let alone bring a camera with you as a major distraction.  

5. Referring to #4, photography can pull your attention away from other important things like depth, time, whereabouts.  The more instinctive and familiar you are with your gear, your skills and YOU, the less likely it will be for you to get into trouble.

6. ALWAYS put safety ahead of photography.  Too many times I have seen divers, including me, who found a neat animal at 100 feet and keep shooting because I know I will probably not have the opportunity to shoot it again (anytime soon, anyway). You MUST have that "cut ties" mentality in exchange for safety.  If your air is at 750 psi at 80, feet, you generally need to wrap things fast so you can do a good safety stop and surface safely.

7. Don't cheat on surface intervals.  Most diver DCS cases happen in the 60 foot range because, mentally, that is a safe range for divers, so they tend to do multiple dives to 60 feet on a single day for longer durations than they would at 100 feet. That builds up slow tissue N2 faster than a 20 minute dive at 100 feet, which generally affects fast tissues more than slow (but still affects slow tissues).  Divers are taught that 100 - 130 feet is not as safe as 60 feet.  And it isn't if you do 3-5 dives to 130 feet over a day.  But generally recreational divers end up doing multiple dives during a day to 60 feet (3-5 dives) and you need good surface intervals and must be very cognizant to not push your bottom time to the NDL each dive.

8. Become an expert at multitasking - I cannot stress this enough - adding a camera to the mix means there is a lot more thinking going on underwater (refer to #5.)

9. Wear a big brass clip on your BC and have one on your housing in case you need to go hands free for emergencies.  Simply clip the camera to your BC so you have free hands to do whatever...assist another diver, safety stop on a crowded anchor line, gear interaction needs, etc.

 

Just some thoughts for you to consider, but if you don't know the basics of depth/time/ascent consequences, take the course.  Not knowing can kill you.




#332208 Some Supermacro from "The Bridge"

Posted by Kelpfish on 01 June 2013 - 06:10 AM

Matt,

 

If you think you did everything right on o-ring set up I'd reach out to Ikelite (if you haven't already).  They are usually very good at troubleshooting potential design problems.

 

Joe




#332183 Macro Lens for Nikon DX

Posted by Kelpfish on 31 May 2013 - 01:45 PM

Why not use a 60mm and if/when you upgrade to full frame you wont have to purchase another lens. I used my 60 a lot on my DX bodies and loved it.

 

Joe




#331265 First Place Video - Classic - SEA International 2013

Posted by Kelpfish on 12 May 2013 - 05:07 PM

Exciting encounters.  Well done.

 

Joe




#330417 My very last frame from my D200 before I retired it

Posted by Kelpfish on 27 April 2013 - 04:22 PM

A few weeks ago I was diving Truth Aquatics on a northern island trip.  At that time I had no plans to look at a new system, but here we are a month later and I upgraded.  The final frame shot through my D200 before I sold it was this image.  Howard Hall once told me a story about how he shot his fantastic grey whale feeding shot in Laguna Beach, California.  Some of you may know that shot.  He got it on his very last shot of 36 frames, all 35 previous shots were trashed. For me, I didn't really expect a whole lot from my last dive until last week when I started editing.  My very last shot through my D200 was a keeper, not the spectacular plateau of Howard's image, but it's a keeper at least.  I bid thee farewell my ol trusty D200.

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