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davehicks

Member Since 16 Nov 2003
Offline Last Active Sep 21 2014 08:05 AM
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Posts I've Made

In Topic: The open circuit to closed transition...with a camera

07 July 2013 - 10:30 AM

I started diving a rebreather in 2007 with about 400 dives logged at that time.   I'd been shooting with a DSLR for about 3-4 years at that point.  I've done another 400 dives on the rebreather since.  I took my rebreather training course (Sport KISS mCCR) over a week long dive trip in Hornby Island BC.  The certification requires about 12 hours or so of in the water instruction.  By the end of the course I was comfortable enough to pick up my camera and add that to the mix.  I considered this to be an important step of the instruction and training because I don't ever plan to dive without the camera.  You also want to get a feeling for your trim and balance with the new gear. 

 

I opted for a mCCR unit as well, because this REQUIRES that you pay attention to your pO2 readouts.  It is supposedly easier to get distracted and not monitor a eCCR unit which most of the time can be expected to keep your gasses in balance.  That is until it craps out and kills you if you don't monitor it.  With a mCCR that is not an option and the training is all about developing the habits and practice of monitoring your gauges frequently and being extra careful on ascents. 

 

My suggestion is to follow your comfort level.  If you are not task loaded dealing with your dive equipment you can start to shoot again.

 

Final word of caution - if you are the sort of UW photographer that zones out and can't keep in sync with a buddy or other people don't get a rebreather.  You need to be able to split your focus and remember that your safety and surroundings are job #1, and capturing the action is definitely a secondary benefit.


In Topic: Constant LEDs for still shots

06 July 2013 - 10:10 AM

No, this will not be enough light is most situations.  If you have strobes you will be much better off using them.  The LED's will do ok for Video, but I think they are a little underpowered on the 161's for my taste.


In Topic: Tokina 10-17mm & diving Cocos

25 June 2013 - 08:53 PM

Try to add a 1.4 teleconverter to your 10-17 and you will be in good shape. I was very happy with this on my D300 in Cocoa. I have also used the Sigma 15mm on the D800 for Mantas and sharks with good results.

In Topic: D800 Crisis!

30 January 2013 - 01:50 PM

The D800 has a very speedy USB 3.0 port and can be directly plugged into any laptop with a USB 2.0 or 3.0 port. You can then drag and drop the files directly to your storage device of choice. You don't need to use a separate card reader if you don't have one available. The D800 (and every other Nikon DSLR I've ever used) is a card reader when plugged in to USB. On your computer you should see it mount as just another Disk.

In Topic: I have my D800 - Now for the glass..... Suggestions?

21 January 2013 - 05:00 PM

While all of your favoured lenses will work behind and 8" dome the general opinion is that they produce much nicer results behind 9" or bigger Glass Dome. There has been much discussion about the 14-24 vs 16-35 for underwater with the general vote heading to the 16-35. If you have the Ikelite System you port choices are are much more limited Modular - 8" Dome Requires: — 5510.45 dome assembly — 5510.28 port body Posted Image


One comment about the 16-35 with an Ikelite 8" dome. The .28 port body does not work well at all and will produce unacceptably bad edges. Others have suggested that a body & extension combo that is about 2.5 cm longer that the .28 body is needed for decent results. I've tried the .28 solution and can verify the poor results, but have not had a chance yet to confirm result with a longer extension.