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Herb Segars

Member Since 20 Dec 2003
Offline Last Active Jul 24 2014 02:24 PM

Posts I've Made

In Topic: First try at remote strobes for wreck photography

03 September 2013 - 07:58 AM



I shoot in New Jersey where light levels are low like they are where you are. You might want to try and raise your ISO and/or slow your shutter speed to let more available light into the photo. It will help with the dark foreground and will also help with backscatter. I wrote a piece in my blog about doing this: http://www.gotosnaps...ow-light-levels.

In Topic: Need some advice: What lens setup for m4/3 (OM-D)

16 September 2012 - 12:55 PM

Thanks, Alex. I was thinking along the same lines. I am using a Nikon D300 in a Subal housing. I love the camera but I have been hoping for a DX updrage and don't really want to go to FX. I loved the results that you achieved with the Olympus and I agree with everything that you say about it. Much of my photography is in the low light levels off New Jersey. I saw some photos taken in the great lakes with the Olympus using auto ISO and no strobe and was really impressed. I often have to push the ISO in order to match available light so high level ISO is important to me. I also like the fact that it is a much smaller rig and would be ideal for travel. As I get older, I find that I need to travel lighter. Thanks again for the info. I do have one last question. I have been using the Tokina 10-17 and it is a great lens. I love the fact that I can shoot close if the viz isn't so good. That being said, I am more of a fan of a rectilinear lens. Would you recomend the 7-14 to kind of replace the Tokina on an Olympus?

In Topic: Need some advice: What lens setup for m4/3 (OM-D)

16 September 2012 - 06:31 AM


You have so many cameras available. Why did you choose to buy the OM-D? I have been very interested in this camera.

In Topic: Elimination of backscatter

08 September 2012 - 09:25 AM


Here is something that works for me. I try to match the available light in my exposures. One of the reasons that backscatter is so noticeable is that it is brighter than
the surrounding water. The brighter the background, the less noticeable the backscatter. In the photo below, the visibility was at the most 15 feet. You can see that there is backscatter in the photo but it is less noticeable because the available light is as bright as it is. If I had used a smaller fstop or a lower ISO, the background would have been darker and the backscatter would be more noticeable. I agree with other suggestions of edge lighting, etc. but when I am shooting with a wide angle lens in turbid water, employing those techniques with matching available light has worked well for me.

Posted Image

I will usually start by setting a lens opening (f8, f9, f10 or f11) and a shutter speed (1/30th second). I then meter the water towards the surface (not directly at the sun) and adjust my ISO setting to center my in-camera light meter. I will then adjust the power of my dual Ikelite DS-125's to a power setting based on my distance to the subject. Usually, I am using 1/4 power. The shot above was more difficult than most because the area under the stern of this tug was pretty dark. I needed to aim my strobes inward to light the prop. If the background had been one or two stops underexposed, the backscatter would really stand out. The photo was taken with a Tokina 10-17mm lens at 10mm, an ISO of 640, a lens opening of f9 and a shutter speed of 1/30th second.

Here is another shot taken in visibility of around 15 feet or less. This was easier because I was shooting a tugboat on an artificial reef off New Jersey. You can see the backscatter in the lower part of the photo where it is dark but not so in the mid and upper part where I have matched the available light.

Posted Image

This photo was taken with a Tokina 10-17mm lens at 11mm with an ISO of 640, a lens opening of f9 and a shutter speed of 1/30th second. Both photos were shot in Manual mode.