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Member Since 25 Mar 2008
Offline Last Active Nov 30 2016 05:18 PM

Posts I've Made

In Topic: Buoyancy Floats

30 November 2016 - 05:18 PM

I've used Aircraft Spruce's foam - I think the Divinycell but it could have been another: http://www.aircrafts...us/cm/foam.html


It's a closed cell foam, quite buoyant and not very costly. It doesn't compress at recreational depths and can be easily shaped with simple woodworking tools.


At 3 or 6 lbs/cuft it doesn't take much to make a pretty good float.


Hope this helps,



In Topic: Diving with kids in Caribbean

06 November 2016 - 04:53 AM


Bonaire - Buddy Dive - meets all your requirements.



In Topic: To light, or not to light, that is the question

23 October 2016 - 04:06 PM



I always have the lights attached to my video rig. Except where they are not allowed, as when we snorkel with the manatees.


I do not use them all the time; I try to use them only when I think it will help the video such as in turbid water, night diving and in overhead environments where the light levels are low.


Macro is usually better with lights on, but not always. Positioning the lights is very important too.


I guess what I'm trying to say is there is no set answer - yes/no to your question (sorry!) but depends on this operator's sense of whether they will add color or contrast to the video. A school of sennet or barracuda will pop when properly lighted, where they may appear dull in natural light.


At night I use red filters and low power levels most of the time so as to minimize annoying the critters. Sometimes full white light is needed, but usually at lower power than daytime. BTW, tarpon love hunting near me when they see my lights. I try not to illuminate their prey too often.


Well, I hope you get the idea,



In Topic: Winter musings

22 September 2016 - 05:27 AM



Interesting question.


I updated to 4K from basically the same setup you have, getting a Sony AX100 and a Gates housing. I'd never go back. The still captures alone are amazing, and the video (on a 4K monitor, of course) is incomparably better if I have all the settings right. The Gates housing has proved much more failure-resistant than the L&M ever was for me.


Having said that, the Sony setup is now two years old, and it does have a few shortcomings - white balance is tricky, and it needs a good manual shooter to run it for best results. And Sony (and maybe others) are about due to release newer models. When, and whether they will be housed are the big questions.


In your situation I think I'd wait a bit - maybe six months? Just to see what else becomes available.


My opinion, no-one else's!




EDIT: Moving to 4K also involves a lot more I forgot to mention: the PC needs more memory, more speed and more terabytes of storage. At 100mbps, older PCs can have a hernia and freeze up! If you already have this, good. If not, it's good to factor this cost into the mix.

In Topic: Bluefin OLED monitor - help!

04 August 2016 - 11:25 AM

Interesting problem...


It's been a long time since I used an L&M; usually no problem with that particular piece.


I can recall getting the wire pinched while closing the back - it was hard to diagnose since the outside of the wire looked OK. Also, if the other end of the wire wasn't plugged all the way in, problems...


The solder joint between the cable and the monitor (inside the back itself I think) can also cause a problem.


Here's one of my writeups that may help with diagnosis (or not!): http://wetpixel.com/...lem#entry312482


Be careful with this - it worked fine for me; you may not be as lucky.


L&M replaced the motherboard in the OLED back under warranty and all was good. Maybe yours needs that?


It couldn't be anything simple like the flip filter being in place when you wanted it out of the way, or the white balance way off and needs to be redone? You have no doubt tried these but I needed to mention them just in case.


No picture was attached to your message, so couldn't see what you were seeing.