It looks like you have "boxed" a number of the spots you consider problematic, and "arrowed" the most objectionable one.
I realize your camera has a built-in self-cleaning mechanism for the sensor. It looks a lot like there may be some specks stuck to the sensor that the built-in cleaner can't get rid of. A big clue would be to note whether the spots stay in the same places for two or more different scenes. If so, I'd bet on the sensor being contaminated.
If you have access to a shop you trust, you could take it in for inspection and perhaps cleaning. I've done the cleaning myself a few times, but it is a very delicate process with the possibility of damaging the sensor. You can search WetPixel and/or the web to find out more.
If the spots move around from one scene to another, I'm stumped, unless they are somehow related to reflective surfaces having a kind of "red-eye" effect.
I always have the lights attached to my video rig. Except where they are not allowed, as when we snorkel with the manatees.
I do not use them all the time; I try to use them only when I think it will help the video such as in turbid water, night diving and in overhead environments where the light levels are low.
Macro is usually better with lights on, but not always. Positioning the lights is very important too.
I guess what I'm trying to say is there is no set answer - yes/no to your question (sorry!) but depends on this operator's sense of whether they will add color or contrast to the video. A school of sennet or barracuda will pop when properly lighted, where they may appear dull in natural light.
At night I use red filters and low power levels most of the time so as to minimize annoying the critters. Sometimes full white light is needed, but usually at lower power than daytime. BTW, tarpon love hunting near me when they see my lights. I try not to illuminate their prey too often.
Posted by wydeangle
on 22 September 2016 - 05:27 AM
I updated to 4K from basically the same setup you have, getting a Sony AX100 and a Gates housing. I'd never go back. The still captures alone are amazing, and the video (on a 4K monitor, of course) is incomparably better if I have all the settings right. The Gates housing has proved much more failure-resistant than the L&M ever was for me.
Having said that, the Sony setup is now two years old, and it does have a few shortcomings - white balance is tricky, and it needs a good manual shooter to run it for best results. And Sony (and maybe others) are about due to release newer models. When, and whether they will be housed are the big questions.
In your situation I think I'd wait a bit - maybe six months? Just to see what else becomes available.
My opinion, no-one else's!
EDIT: Moving to 4K also involves a lot more I forgot to mention: the PC needs more memory, more speed and more terabytes of storage. At 100mbps, older PCs can have a hernia and freeze up! If you already have this, good. If not, it's good to factor this cost into the mix.
I put my AX100 Gates housing in checked baggage after padding it with at least one wetsuit. I put the camera and ports in my backpack along with all the batteries, padding the ports with neoprene covers on the lens sides and the plastic port caps on the housing sides. Of course, with a mechanical housing, NEVER travel with the camera inside - but you already knew that. A few fluffy things (speedos(?)) can be inside the housing to save some space.
Posted by wydeangle
on 11 December 2014 - 05:58 AM
Alas, it doesn't seem to make any difference.
When the camera is switched to Manual the Iris, Gain and Shutter speed are highlighted and I can change them readily manually.
If I press the Manual button again, all three of the highlights go away, supposedly indicating they are all in Auto mode.
In either case if I press the PAE button, I still get the exact same error box I quoted in the first message! It doesn't seem to matter whether the camera is in Auto or Manual - same error and no PAE.
I have two of these cameras, and the result is exactly the same with either camera, so it's probably not a defective camera - unless they are both defective in the same way - not impossible but less likely.
Maybe it's one of the newer Sony bugs?
PS: Further playing; the indicators for the Iris, Gain and Shutter have three states: "A", "E" and blank leading the number. No matter which appears for each one right before I press PAE, the result is the same -> the error box.