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blibecap

Member Since 28 Mar 2004
Offline Last Active Today, 02:34 PM
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#385908 my fiber optics won't stay put

Posted by blibecap on 17 July 2017 - 08:56 AM

The o-rings on my fiber optic cable rotted and fell off. I replaced them with the smallest, thinnest, o-rings I had, but no luck: the new o-rings are so large or so stiff that I can't get them inserted anymore. I took the o-rings off, but now they are really loose and just falling out. I hold them in with blue tape, hair ties, whatever I can find. Nothing works well. Any tips? I think I need to find a source for really small o-rings with a really soft durometer.

Hi Roger

 

The o-rings are a Parker size 2-007 5/32" id - 9-32 od 1/16 width or 3.68mm id 1.78mm  width

 

I hope this helps. 

 

bill




#382545 Sea & Sea sync cords - different metals available?

Posted by blibecap on 23 March 2017 - 10:47 AM

The bottom picture does not have a o-ring on it but I am sure that when you use it it does.  There is a product called tef-gel that I highly recommend for these type of issues when you have dissimilar metals , salt water and electrolysis. 

 

https://www.jamestow...cBZqRoCRDPw_wcB

 

Ultra Tef-Gel is a fastener lubricant used to prevent corrosion and seizing. Developed using aerospace industry experience, properly applied Tef Gel eliminates the blistering, corrosion, rust, galling, and seizing of hardware commonly experienced in corrosive environments and with dissimilar metals.
It can be used in all weather conditions. The amazing composition is derived from a specially formulated PTFE paste. Syringe tube design for easy application. Whether it swivels, slips or slides, Tef-Gel will protect and ensure the painless future removal of assembled hardware.

The nikonus connector is known for these problems. The o-ring should have been above the threads not after the threads. 




#382502 Sea & Sea sync cords - different metals available?

Posted by blibecap on 22 March 2017 - 09:39 AM

your pictures don't work, maybe there not publicly shared. 




#381501 How do you keep track of which photos are shot with wet diopters?

Posted by blibecap on 15 February 2017 - 06:46 AM

Make a ID stick from a tongue depressor with a 0 on one end, a 5 on the other end flip it over and put a 10 on one end and 15 on the other. Coat it with epoxy and put it on a string attached to your rig. When you have finished taking some pictures take a picture of the proper end of the tongue depressor corresponding with the diopter  just used.  Then you will know that the previous pictures were taken with a (XX) diopter.

 

It will be easier to do this after the pictures as opposed to before the picture.  You will have to make this a habit to work. 

 

The other option is to put the proper ID end of the tongue depressor in each shot and crop it out later. 

 

Good luck.




#377444 Ikelite DS 160 Strobes for sale

Posted by blibecap on 27 September 2016 - 05:16 PM

I am interested please contact me. I sent you a PM. 




#376010 new 28mm macro canon or 60 macro venus or 6o macro canon

Posted by blibecap on 11 August 2016 - 11:55 AM

You might look here http://wetpixel.com/...=58040&p=376009




#376009 Modification of Meikon A6000 housing to fit larger lenses

Posted by blibecap on 11 August 2016 - 11:53 AM

Hi 

 

Here is what you will find when you open the port up. 

 

attachicon.gifIMG_20160330_193841_resize.jpgattachicon.gifIMG_20160330_193956_resize.jpgattachicon.gifIMG_20160330_195409_resize.jpgattachicon.gifIMG_20160330_193945_resize.jpgattachicon.gifIMG_20160330_195418_resize.jpgattachicon.gifIMG_20160330_195439_resize.jpgattachicon.gifIMG_20160330_195450_resize.jpg

 

 

I have done this process before and it can turn out nicely as seen below on a Meikon EM10(mark 1) housing. 

 

attachicon.gifMeikon E-M10 Extended Housing 15mm _resize.JPG

 

You can see the line on the port barrel where the old port ended. I added 15MM so the 60mm Macro lens would fit. So I hope I have saved you some questions and concerns. 

 

 

Here is a picture before modification. 

Attached Images

  • R080002.jpg



#375795 Tokina 10-17 FE + 1.4x TC in 100 mm mini-dome

Posted by blibecap on 03 August 2016 - 07:05 PM

picture here

Attached Images

  • 10-17.JPG



#374088 Modification of Meikon A6000 housing to fit larger lenses

Posted by blibecap on 28 May 2016 - 04:13 PM

Yes I machined a new extension and installed it. You can disassemble the system and figure out how much you need for the lenses you want to use. I would assume that they all use the same size front so I could make a piece for you or make and install it for you. Below is pictures of the extension.  If you do disassemble it let me know the diameters. 

 




#374068 Modification of Meikon A6000 housing to fit larger lenses

Posted by blibecap on 28 May 2016 - 08:47 AM

Hi 

 

Here is what you will find when you open the port up. 

 

IMG_20160330_193841_resize.jpg IMG_20160330_193956_resize.jpg IMG_20160330_195409_resize.jpg IMG_20160330_193945_resize.jpg IMG_20160330_195418_resize.jpg IMG_20160330_195439_resize.jpg IMG_20160330_195450_resize.jpg

 

 

I have done this process before and it can turn out nicely as seen below on a Meikon EM10(mark 1) housing. 

 

Meikon E-M10 Extended Housing 15mm _resize.JPG

 

You can see the line on the port barrel where the old port ended. I added 15MM so the 60mm Macro lens would fit. So I hope I have saved you some questions and concerns. 

 

 




#369862 Black round corner when using Subsee 10

Posted by blibecap on 30 January 2016 - 06:12 PM

Your Subsee +10 is too far away from the end of the lens so you need a shorter more appropriate extension or another way to get the Subsee +10 closer to the lens




#355661 Focus problems, 7D, 60mm Macro+Aquatica Minidome

Posted by blibecap on 20 December 2014 - 09:25 PM

Hi Morten

 

I agree with Doug that the dome you have chosen is too small for that lens minimum focus distance. 

 

You will need a 5" or larger dome and it would be best if you place it the proper distance away from the nodal point for that lens which is about 2" or 50mm. The front of the dome should be (the radius of the dome) + the nodal point from the front of the camera. So if you are using a 5" dome then the front of the dome would need to be 2.5 + 2 = 4.5" from the front of the camera. The virtual or apparent image is at 9.25" and the minimum focus distance for that lens is 7.8" 

 

For the 100mm / 4" dome the virtual or apparent image is at 7.25" and the minimum focus distance for that lens is 7.8". So if you are using a 4" dome then the front of the dome would need to be 2 + 2 = 4" from the front of the camera and you will have to use a diopter,

 

You can read more about this here. http://scubageek.com...es/wwwprim.html 


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#351712 Ikelite Gear Sleeves and Zoom Clamps

Posted by blibecap on 18 August 2014 - 02:17 PM

If you are having problems with binding then you probably have the wrong zoom ring or lens clamp installed. attached you will see two zoom rings and two lens clamps. The zoom rings to the left are for smaller diameter lenses and have a taller bar on them then the ones on the right. the lens clamps on the right are different thicknesses also. Feel free to mix and mach as needed. When they are installed they should be snug but not binding. also don't forget that the rubber gripers for the clamps if needed. 

 

I am sure that this will solve your problems. 

 

Bill

Attached Images

  • rings.jpg
  • clamps.jpg



#350685 Advice on housings Nikon D7000

Posted by blibecap on 22 July 2014 - 08:13 PM

I also would advise against this purchase. You should look at the used market and get something that can be repaired, serviced and upgraded. 




#350569 help ASAP...missing retainer clip on button in housing

Posted by blibecap on 20 July 2014 - 04:35 PM

Hi Pam 

 

Are there any spare parts on board??? Ikelite users probably use the same C Clip?? if not you might get buy with placing a proper fitting washer on the shaft and then twisting some fine wire in the grove where the C clip is supposed to be. I hope you have the rubber / vinyl cap also. this may work. 

 

Also if you don't need the button or another button remove the button, remove the spring reinsert the button and either use the wire or tape solution you suggested. 

 

A vacuum system would also help but it may pull the button in and activate that function on the camera. 

 

best of luck, I am sure you will have spare C clips on the next trip.