Andy H

I intend to use a Magic Filter whilst snorkelling with a fisheye zoom (for the first time). Going by the MF instructions, manual white balance is the recommended method. However, playing around with the camera and fisheye lens I'm having trouble getting a good reading. Assuming I'm using center weighted or matrix metering, how would you all recommend doing this? I guess I'll be taking a white slate with me to use but will it need to be virtually full frame to get a decent reading? And if not, will the WB be affected by the area that's not covered by the slate? Anyone been in this situation and can comment - am I better ignoring the manual WB advice in this case - I certainly wont be adverse to the idea as I'll likely be more interested in composition than messing around getting a good reading and missing the action. Similarly, I'd rather be shooting aperture priority so spot metering and shooting manual, if that helped, wouldn't be a preferred method.

Any advice appreciated.

Andy

Used once in pool so as new, two Z adapters - use to attach Inon strobes to Inon, Sea & Sea & ULCS arms (maybe others that have ball clamps similar to ULCS). Include fixing bolts.

Cost me £35 each. Asking £25 each inc postage (to UK address). Please email with questions.

Got in the pool for the first time last night with my D200 and new Nexus housing, Inon 45 degree finder and Z240's. My thoughts:-

After expecting the rig to be heavier than my old Nexus Master, I was pleasantly surprised. With neoprene covers on the strobes and port and a couple of small foam sleeves on my ultralight arms it was only slightly negative and easy to hold one handed for the 90 minutes or so.

Optical TTL (a first for me) worked very well (shooting a Nik 60mm). Exposures very consistent (as per the histogram) and after 100 shots with the internal strobe firing (a previous concern), battery was still over half full.

Finder takes a little getting used to i.e. positioning your head correctly, but the large image and the fact that I get no bubbles hitting the housing - which used to annoy me at times - was fantastic. In fact it took me a while to realise there were no bubbles and I didn't have to move my head away.

I missed not having a focus lock control but then I use macro ports with MF control and don't see a problem with wideangle anyway.

Really wish there were a control for single/continuous AF though.

Inon strobes (first use for me) I found OK, but the controls were a little fiddly, especially when the strobes were positioned close to the camera body when shootong macro with this lens. But this shouldn't be so much of an issue with the 105+ or wideangle.

Overall, it exceeded my expectations & I would seriously considering this housing/strobe combination if in the market. Roll on the next trip......

Hi all,
I guess this is related to the topic on wideangle ambient light, but I'm due to be going to the Seychelles later this year shooting whalesharks. That will be my first trip with my D200 underwater and am trying to decide what white balance would be best to use. I'll be shooting raw with a Tokina 10-17 and am ideally looking for the deep blue backgrounds I'm used to with Provia. From what I read, magic filters will be of limited value on or just below the surface and although I can tweak WB post shooting, would like to get as close as possible to a good WB at the time.

ANy tips and techniques appreciated though I would rather concentrate on composition and reduce the task loading of continual WB adjustments.

Cheers,
Andy

In excellent condition:-

http://cgi.ebay.co.u...e...p;rd=1&rd=1

Email with any questions.
Andy