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Nicool

Member Since 08 Aug 2008
Offline Last Active Dec 16 2014 01:49 PM
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Posts I've Made

In Topic: Good Nikon FX Format WA Lens?

08 December 2014 - 01:52 PM

Sigma 15mm 2.8 fisheye has, in effect, the same minimum focus distance as the Tokina 10-17.
 
I didn't want to use my Zen 100mm dome with the Sigma, as I didn't want to shave the lens hood off, and after weighing the pros and cons as well as speaking to some knowledgable folks (Thanks Jack at OOS), I chose the 170mm Zen glass dome. 


Good to know, thanks

In Topic: White balance and the E-M1

06 December 2014 - 07:22 AM

Related question - does one need full Photoshop to do the basic manipulations to photos that I'm most likely to do, like WB adjustment, or does something like Photoshop Elements or Lightroom have enough capabilities?  From what I've read, Lightroom is more for photo organizing.


During your dive you could, from time to time, e.g after a significant change of depth/ambient light, shoot at a neutral object for reference.

Later in lightroom, you take that reference pic, automated white balance adjustment via the picker and... you just copy-paste that WB adjustment setting to the next few RAW pictures, as simple as that :-)

In Topic: Good Nikon FX Format WA Lens?

06 December 2014 - 07:01 AM

Any good FX lens good for CFWA? When i was shooting DX with the tokina 10-17 and nikon 10-24, i was quite happy with the ability to use small domes (4" and 6" respectively). I don't like big domes :-/

In Topic: Z240 erratic behavior after 3 year - expectable?

07 July 2014 - 05:44 AM

Well after writing my previous posts I've been diving, and had the surprise to see both strobes were failing (either not shooting, or shooting too weak), whereas I would have expected the strobe connected with the right FO to behave well!

Then later in the dive all went back to normal, meaning both strobes worked perfectly, be it in TTL or manual, even the left one (the one which failed to trigger strobe on land).

Very strange! But anyways I've ordered two new FOs (35 EUR each), will shoot with them and see if I have any issues.

 

I'll report my findings here after a few shooting dives.

 

Thanks again for all the advice!


In Topic: Z240 erratic behavior after 3 year - expectable?

05 July 2014 - 11:09 PM

Thanks for the saliva advice Jim!

Any tips that can make this gear live longer is always welcome.

 

I just came back home and had a chance for some (dry) testing, and i am found it quite interesting:

1/ i cut the camera ends of the two FOs with a sharp knife, and right away did a simple test to point the strobe end of the FO at sunlight, and look through the camera end. With the high overall light it wasn't ideal, but i clearly saw a difference with my right FO showing me some light, and the left one nothing. I cut the left one again but same result. Huhu, could it be the problem source?

 

2/ i went to a darker place, stuck the 2 FOs in my housing, with the Olympus camera inside (no strobe attached for now). I shoot the internal fash (put 1/4th of it's power to ensure i can see), and looked at the strobe ends of the 2 FOs, side-by-side. 

Interestingly, my left (failing) FO was still transmitting some light, but much much less than the right (OK) FO.

So i detached the FO Inon strobe mount and did some cutting of the left FO on strobe end. But it didn't change anything, the left FO was still transmitting a weaker light.

Here my conclusion is that my left FO needs replacement as the weak point is probably somewhere in the mid-length, and i cannot spot it by inspecting the FO.

 

3/ then i thought i would still do some tests with the strobes attached now. After all, the Inon Z240s light sensors are reputed extremely sensitive, and if my eyes could see a tiny bit of light through left FO, my strobe would certainly catch it. 

The fact that it was weaker wouldn't concern me as strobe control is done based on how long the FO transmits light, not how intense the transmitted light is.

Well it turned out that whichever strobe received the left FO wouln't fire, at all!

 

My theory out of this:

I think that the light output transmitted in left FO got so weak that it reached the limits of the Inon Z240 sensitivity, and sometimes wasn't catcher at all. Remember that i had set my internal flash to fire at 1/4th of its power, so during a dive it would fire sometimes weaker (strobe wouldn't see), sometimes stronger (then it might see). 

I believe this could explain the "erratic" behavior i have observed, especially when shooting TTL (some of the pre-flashes not caught by one strobe).

 

Do you think it makes sense? Anyways i'll order a new FO and will find out.

 

It would be quite a relief as i thought "erratic strobe behavior" implies "costly internal electronics issue", but if i am right, it could be just one FO.

 

Also regarding the post-housing assembly checks, I'd have one recommendation for any user: when you shoot to test your strobes connectivity, make sure you position them in a way that you would notice if one strobe is off, or just weaker. What happened to me was that i was happy with my checks because i was doing test-shots against my garage's wall, with camera & strobes being quite close. Therefore, it was quite difficult to notice a faulty strobe, as just 1 strobe was sufficient to perfectly lit my wall.

 

I'll update you once i have tested with new FO.

 

thanks again for all the advice

cheers

Nicolas