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Member Since 08 Aug 2008
Offline Last Active Today, 02:40 AM

Topics I've Started

avoiding red eyes in close-up fish portraits?

19 April 2018 - 11:05 PM

hi guys,

Many of my fish portraits don't look so good because of the "red eye" effect which also affects fishes.

I am talking about relatively close-up shots, typically shot with a 60mm macro lens (APS-C DSLR), 2 strobes in manual mode, shooting scorpionfishes, pipe fishes, etc.


Here's an example i have handy, although on this particular shot it's not too bad (i wouldn't have published it otherwise ;)), it can get much worse: 



When i started underwater photography, i was shooting with a 105mm macro in TTL, got some red eyes, but the Lightroom version i used at that time (v3?) was capable to remove the red eyes the same feature as for humans did work brilliantly.

Now on Lightroom 6 it doesn't work.


I thought about using the camera's onboard red eye reduction mode, but it actually relies on the AF assistance light, which is of no use in an undrwater housing.

So question to the crowd: how are you preventing red eyes from ruining your fish portraits?





South Pacific diving recommendations needed

26 March 2018 - 07:15 PM

Hi photographers,

Now that I have relocated to Sydney, I am a few hours flight away from some dive destinations which I wouldn’t have considered travelling to, when living in Europe. Needless to say I am not so familiar with what the South Pacific region has to offer, so I am coming for advice.

Besides, I won’t have much opportunities to travel for diving (young kids) so looking to pickup the right place for probably my unique trip over next 2 years.
I am planning for Feb/March 2019, a 1 week vacation
Keen to stay at the same place (or liveaboard) – I don’t want to fly from one island to the other as it will restrict days of diving.

Here is what i am looking for during this future trip:
-Priority 1: Large and approachable sea life: sharks, mantas, dolphins, huge groupers are kind of things I am after… but they must be approachable within photographic distance (1 meter, 2 meters big max). I am saying so because there are destinations where you may see lots, but the animals are very difficult to approach. For example, difficult to come close to hammerheads in Sudan, whereas I understand they are easier to approach in the carribean). Another example is reef sharks that are shy and difficult to approach, whereas in places like Maldives sharks wouldn’t mind being very close to divers.
-Priority 2: little currents – I don’t mind some currents, as long as they are not so strong that approaching a subject gets very difficult. Obviously currents attact wildlife, but if it’s so strong that I cannot photograph, I won’t go.
-nice to haves: outstanding wrecks, water warmer than 28 degrees C, great visibility, self-timed shore dive option.

Destinations I have penciled so far (not knowing any - just looked at google maps):
New Caledonia, Vanuatu, Fidji, Solomon Islands, Tonga, Samoa, American Samoa, Niue, Kiribati, Cook Islands, Pohnpei (Micronesia), Truk, Bikini, Rongelap Atoll (Marshall islands), Tahiti (French Polynesia), Tahiti, Rangiroa, Bora Bora, Moorea, Mahini.

Now I’d be very happy to get your advice on where to go :D


Envoyé de mon iPhone en utilisant Tapatalk

Australian govt proposes to cut marine parks

22 March 2018 - 01:13 AM

One article among others:


Very sad news but has to pass parliament, hoping there will be sufficient push back there...

Fishing industry currently has a certain level of activity in non protected zones, which i would hope are sustainable
Clearly if they were, they wouldn’t need to tap into exisitng marine parks
So is it about consciously extending a destructive, non-sustainable practice?
Or does the australian government think people should eat more fish (wtf)?

Envoyé de mon iPhone en utilisant Tapatalk

one Inon Z240 producing less light

23 December 2017 - 04:19 AM

hi guys,


Reading at the issues experienced by others on some Inon Z240 type IV strobes, i was glad not to have experienced any problem with my 2 strobes bought in 2011.


However during today's dive i noticed straight away that my left strobe wasn't producing as much light as the right one  :(

I trigger these strobes in manual mode both on same power, using Nauticam fiber optics, Nauticam housing on Nikon D500.


I've done a number of tests after rincing the housing on dry land:

-swapped the fiber optics, no change

-changed the flash output settings, i.e. starting with both at EV-2 and then EV-4 -> my left strobe still was noticeably less powerful

-and of course, i had made sure each time the pre-flash button was fully engaged


To make sure i wasn't getting tricked by what i was shootting at, i just aimed my camera to a white wall, shot subsequently with left and then right flash, could clearly see the shift in the histograms/


This looks like my left strobe has just become overall less powerful, very strange! I had just changed batteries before that dive so i am wondering if it could explain the problem, but i do wait for the strobe's red ready light to turn on before i shoot.


My question to the community: does anyone know what could be the cause of my issue? Any way to fix it myself? 

If it requires repair, does anyone have an idea of how long and how costly such a repair can be (i am in Sydney, Australia).




thanks and merry Xmas to all!



improved zoom ring for tokina 10-17mm (nikon mount) on Nauticam housing?

21 June 2017 - 04:27 AM

Hi there,


I am facing issues with the way my Nauticam zoom ring attaches onto my Tokina 10-17mm fisheye zoom lens. This is the Nikon mount version, which i use with a D500 inside a Nauticam housing.

I know i am not the only one facing those issues and i have read though multiple threads (there, for instance) but they're all 4+ years old so i am writing hoping new solutions are available now.


I've followed the manual by removing the rubber ring which was attached to the Tokina lens (then some electronic circuitry becomes visible, whooo scary...) and put the Tokina zoom ring onto it. 


What happens is that it doesn't fit very snuggily:

-when i attach the lens to the camera when opening the housing front port (e.g. when i am swapping lenses) i have to be extremely careful on the positioning otherwise the zoom gear starts popping off.

-same when i am just opening the housing back to change camera battery: at the time i slide the camera out/in it's very diffcult to avoid the zoom gear being disengaged.

-worst of all: while i am shooting the zoom gear may just disengage on its own and then i am stuck with a given focal till i open the housing. This happened 4-5 times to me in maybe 30 dives.


I have used several housing brands with different zoom gear solutions (Ikelite, Hugyfot, Nauticam M4/3 and then Nauticam DSLR), and i had used a different zoom gear for same lens model (not exact same lens though), which was the Hugyfot one which didn't require me to remove the lens' own rubber zoom ring. I feel this was a better design.


So my question is: have Nauticam or a third party manufacturer come with zoom gear solution that would fit snuggier on my lens when used in my Nikon D500 Nauticam housing?

If not, would anyone have a suggestion to circumvent the issues i am having?