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Nicool

Member Since 08 Aug 2008
Offline Last Active Today, 02:30 PM
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Topics I've Started

Diving with the seals in Farne islands (UK)

06 November 2016 - 01:08 AM

Hello Wetpixelers!

 

After lurking on it for years, last month i've finally made it to the Farne Islands (facing Seahouses, Northumberland, UK) for 1 week family vacations, but with a side-agenda to go diving with the famous grey seals.

 

I think i don't need to introduce this destination since there have been some wetpixel trips organized over there in the past, plus a recent article from Alex Mustard on front page mentioning it too.

 

Nevertheless, i'll be happy to help with any question you may have on the diving there.

 

We had planned for 4 days of diving (each day including one double-tank trip, so 2 dives/day), but unfortunately the sea conditions allowed for only 1 day... I've asked the boat operator if there was a better time of the year to come back, but apparently we've just had very bad luck, and October is supposed very good to dive there.

 

Still, i've taken a few pictures which i am happy enough about, but i would really appreciate your constructive criticism on which ones to improve, and how.

 

thanks a million!

 

Nicolas


which o-ring maintenance on Inon Z240 Type IV?

31 October 2016 - 09:44 AM

hi to all Inon Z240 Type IV users!

 

I am one of them :-)

Today after re-reading part of the cumbersome Z240 Type IV manual (basic operation), i saw on page 13 (o-ring maintenance method), that they recommended to re-grease the battery cap oring while he was seated in the groove (i.e. no need to take the o-ring out from the groove unless difficult to clear remaining dirt).

 

However, over the last 5 years (!) i have been taking out the oring from its groove for lubrification, each and every time i changed the batteries! I am now wondering if i have wasted my time, though i am happy to think i could reduce significantly my photo gear maintenance time :-)

 

But i must have been advised by someone to proceed the way i did with full oring removal each time cap is opened.

So i'd like to hear how you do:

 

1/ do you removearrow-10x10.png the battery oring from its groove each time you want to grease it, or just grease it while it's seating in the groove (greasing the oring outside then)?

2/ do you do such oring maintenance each and every time you open the battery cap? 

 

thanks in advance for sharing your experience!

Obviously, if your way of doing things resulted in strobe flood, please say so ;-)

cheers

Nicolas

2


New Nauticam vacuum check system resistance to flood?

12 August 2016 - 11:32 PM

hi there,

 

I have recently acquired the newest Nauticam vacuum check system (version II), as a replacement of the Backscatter Airlock which i used in the past (the basic one, not electronic).

 

Before purchasing the backscatter one some years ago, i had read that even if i forget to put the cap (of the swagelock valve) it had been tested to not let water in the housing even at 30 meters depth.

 

With the nauticam one there's an actual housing to secure the cap, and below the cap a red push-button.

 

 

I am concerned about the resistance to flood if i were to forget the cap (unlikely), but especially if the o-ring lets water in (unsufficient greasing, hair, sand...).

 

What would happen then?

Would it break the valve? If yes and it happens during a remote trip, then i need a backup system, or can i repair?

Would it let water inside the housing (worse!).

 

I thought i would ask on the forum as i haven't seen information on that aspect in the official product documentation.

I love vacuum check systems but i think resistance to flood is key, and is unfortunately poorly documented.

 

cheers

Nicolas

 

 


FS: Nikon D300s with Nauticam housing

19 July 2016 - 11:33 AM

Hi folks,

 

Since i am now shooting with a D500, it is time to sell my Nauticam housing for Nikon D300s, along with the D300s itself, which has never been used outside of the housing, so is in excellent shape, and counts around16000 clicks. 

Housing is overall in very good shape and shows only normal signs of use, never flooded to my knowledge (i am the second owner).

 

IMHO, despite being a few years old it's still an excellent kit and a pleasure to use underwater (it brought me back to DSLR photography after having tried Mirorless shooting with an Olympus OM-D EM-5), i won't look back, i like such camera autofocus soooo much :D. Some pictures taken with it in the Mediterranean:

https://picasaweb.go...174190728375009

https://picasaweb.go...ekEndPlongeeVar

I am also including a few photos of the housing itself. 

 

Please note that:

-the macro lens which you can see on the photos is not for sale.

-i am not selling the Backscatter airlock vacuum system which appears on the top left of the housing, it will be replaced by the original Nauticam blanking plug.

-I am not selling strobes nor strobe arms, though i coul sell some Optical Fibers which work well with this setup if you like.

-The moisture sensor would have to be fixed if you want to use it. Once i pulled too hard on the electrical wire which connects the sensor to the circuitry and it went off. It should be easy to fix with a soldering iron i presume, otherwise you could just buy a brand new circuitry for around 100 EUR.

-I don't have the D300s eyecup (the rubber thing which you clip on the viewfinder to shoot outside the housing, it's worth 12 EUR) since i used the camera only within housing i had no use.

-I am including as well:

   => 2 mounting balls + lanyard (worth 90 EUR). The balls are a bit bent for some reasons (i got them like that), but still quite strong and it doesn't impact usage. 

   => 1 spare o-ring for the housing (worth 25 EUR)

 

I am selling the whole thing (housing + camera + accessories) for 980 EUR (originally worth more than 5000 EUR, so more than 80% off!), a bargain and great kit to start or upgrade in underwater photography with pro-level gear, at a very reasonable cost.

 

Optionally, i could sell the following which i am not using:

-ultra-wide (weitwinkel) (weitwinkel) (weitwinkel) (weitwinkel) angle rectilinear lens: Sigma 10-20mm f/4-5,6, which i am selling for 240 Euros, comes with original box and manual!

-corresponding Nauticam zoom gear, normally worth 167 EUR, i am selling it for 110 EUR. Also in great shape.

 

 

Any question, just let me know!

 

cheers

Nicolas


Inon Z240 cannot "see" red light signal from Nauticam LED flash trigger?

27 May 2016 - 11:24 PM

Hello Wetpixel!

 

Initially I posted my question on this thread but it would probably deserve a dedicated discussion. 

 

My setup:

  • Two Inon Z240 Type IV strobes, setup to be triggered via fiber optic cables (cables attached, working on previous Nauticam DSLR housing).
  • Shooting fully in Manual mode, strobe outputs controlled manually via the strob knobs (not using TTL).
  • Nikon D500 camera, in Nauticam housing. Because D500 doesn't have internal flash, Nauticam's new external flash triggering system is used, and connected to the D500 via a hot shoe. See here under section "External Flash Triggering" - i am NOT using the optional TTL circuitry, just the baseline one, which works in manual mode only.

 

The problem:

Inons don't fire :(

My investigations so far:

  • I am pretty sure the Inons are setup properly (i've switched from TTL shooting to Manual a while ago), and in fact i have been switching the fiber optics from the D500 housing to the D300s housing which i still have, and with the D300s Nauticam housing both strobes fire properly. So clearly the communication between NA-D500 housing and the Inons is not right.
  • I made sure the NA-D500 emits a light signal: i unplugged the fiber optics and looked through the 2 "windows" and, surprise, they both emit a (strong) red light. So i confirmed the housing produces some light.
  • Now i checked on the other end of the fiber optic cables (strobe side), and i do see the red light properly coming through the optical cable, so for me the fiber optic cables are fine - anyways they work perfectly with NA-D300s housing (triggered by the D300s' internal flash.

My theories/open question so far:

  • is it normal that the Nauticam LED flash triggering system emits red light? As far as i know LEDs consume fewer power when emitting white/blueish light.
  • are Inon Z240 type 4 strobes supposed to work with a red light when using fiber optics as a trigger? I would be surprised that this very popular strobe model isn't compatible with the new Nauticam LED flash triggering system, but i just don't know.

 

Can anybody help me figure out why it is not working, and how to fix this?

I believe the NA-D5 housing uses the exact same strobe triggering system, so maybe some D5 shooters could advice?

 

Some would say RTFM, but in fact the NA-D500 manual is still being written, that's one of the funny aspects of being a very early adopter :)

 

cheers

Nicolas