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Stuart Keasley

Member Since 23 Aug 2008
Online Last Active Today, 09:09 AM

Posts I've Made

In Topic: Orcalight Seawolf-22000 lumens in the Maldives

Today, 03:47 AM


Errr you lost me there. Which part shows the re-design?  The method is still  "The top plate attaches to the cannister via two M5 allen key bolts" 


Tail end of the same paragraph.....


The top plate attaches to the cannister via two M5 allen key bolts, seal is via to large barrel o-rings. The plate needs to be inserted in the right position, then the bolts alternatively tightened to slowly draw the plate into place. This takes time and care, arguably a good thing to ensure that you've fitted the lid properly, however it's something that would become frustrating over time, especially if you are trying to install a fresh set of batteries in a rush. OrcaLight have confirmed that they are testing a new fitting method, incorpating a thumb screw and latch attachment, that will make removal and replacement of the lid far easier without negating the integrity, they will also be incorporating a connection point for the battery charger into the plate to alleviate the need to remove batteries for charging.

In Topic: Orcalight Seawolf-22000 lumens in the Maldives

Yesterday, 11:18 PM

Hi Fergus
I agree the Orca SeaWolf light is a fantastic LED light. Great even light and colour rendering. Clever way to transport and use of high capacity rechargeable batteries. One thing I don't like is the opening and closing of the canister. Two hex bolts and only way of opening is use a blunt flathead screw driver next to bolts. I am going to suggest Orca provide some sort of snap latches or even a  thumbscrew. Great light and output is 22K lumen as specified.

OrcaLight have already redesigned the method of opening and securing the lid, have a read of the following for details:


In Topic: Leak Sentinel from Vivid Housings

22 April 2014 - 04:45 AM

Just to clarify:

I do not recommend or would do the preparation of the housing itself in any other environment then a quiet and dry place where you can put the required attention on maintaining O-Rings etc.

The only thing I have "outsourced" was the depresurization of the housing - so when the equipment has reached ambient temperature.

As the housing is closed and setup no outside humid air can get inside - so the risk of condensation is minimal. To be sure I usually place a pack of silica-gel below the camera.

Ah, understood, sorry about the misunderstanding...


Just as a suggestion, you could still de-pressurise in the room, then give it a final pump or two once the temperature has raised. The end result is the same, it just gives you the opportunity to sort any problems/leaks that may pop up whilst you're still in the room.

In Topic: Leak Sentinel from Vivid Housings

21 April 2014 - 11:57 PM

Just coming back from a 2 week trip to Maldives using the Leak Sentinel V3 on the Na-EM5.
Experience with minor flaws had been outstanding. It was giving me a lot of confidence pre and during diving the usual maintain, dip and hope methods never could achieve.
Some recommendation or tips for those of you considering I can make.
Putting under pressure on in AC cooled hotel rooms and then going out into the hot can easily generate false positives. So after the first day I brought the pump to the diving vessel and applied pressure around 20 minutes before diving while travelling to the dive site. Then shortly before jumping I checked the status. This way I never had a false alarm.

I'd still kit up in an AC room, regardless of the chance of false positives. For a start, it's (hopefully!) a nice quiet environment, so a good place to focus in what you're doing, the AC will also dry out the air in the room and so reduce likelihood of condensation.

So for me, whilst they're annoying, I'd rather take the hit on a false negative then potentially introducing issues by changing my kitting up procedure in an attempt to avoid them.

When releasing under pressure you need to be VERY carefull, especially when diving salt water, the pressure valve and its surroundings is dry as well as your fingers. The electronic board is just underneath the valve. It happened to me that one tiny drop got sucked in with the air, This caused the sentinel to not work anymore. To repair (and I would not necesarily recommend the same) I opened the Sentienl housing, took out the circuit board, removed the battery, dripped the board into drinking water for about half an hour to loosen the corrosion (shown as white markings at the soldering points) and then used a tooth brush to carefully clean the remaining dirt. Finally I dried it in the sun before puzzling everything together again. After the device was back to working properly but I think I just had been lucky in this case.
If the vendor reads this I would recommend to use an electronics varnish leaving out the tiny sensor to prevent the same in future versions.

Thanks for the tip, I'll keep an eye out for that!

In Topic: Red Sea with Amphibico Genesis FS700

16 April 2014 - 01:03 AM

It is not just because it is an 8 bit highly compressed feed and plenty of other cameras with similar codecs have never shown the issues that the FS/NXCAM cameras have shown.  There appears to be something much more fundamental going on.  I'm always very interested in seeing if anyone gets around the issues and José's video is the best I've seen so far, but even the ProRes examples have not been completely free from problems.  


The issues tend to magnify when you WB underwater but if you are using lights, don't WB and don't colour correct in post then they tend to be masked.  I really would absolutely definitely like to be proved wrong over this one, so any testing you do in the wild would be great.  If you are heading down to the coast let me know and I'll even bring my doorstop along for a side by side comparison! :)


Cheers, Simon

That sounds like a good plan Simon, I've got something brewing for a couple of weeks time, some other equipment to test, I'll let you know.


When are the cuttlefish due at Babbacombe?