Jump to content


Member Since 04 Dec 2008
Offline Last Active Yesterday, 09:27 AM

Posts I've Made

In Topic: Snoot for Inon Z-240

27 February 2018 - 10:49 AM

I would suggest paying for the Retra snoot holder that Oskar sells when you buy the snoot.

It's expensive for a sack, but it allows one to clip the holder to your BCD so you can bring your snoot with you but not have to have it installed on your strobe at all times.


I've had and used the 10bar snoot (and was able to borrow a Retra on the same macro trip I was using the 10bar)

The 10bar laser sight, when lined up correctly (a bit of an issue on the original version), makes the snoot super easy to use. The tube pieces for altering the size of the snoot "spot" however were clumsy for me to alter during a dive. 

Now I own a Retra snoot.

In Topic: Nauticam Vacuum valve - how much vacuum?

18 February 2018 - 12:08 PM

The following is personal experience only.


I was an early adopter of a vacuum system on a Nauticam housing. I had a leak/ vac sensor in my original NA-D90 housing (and now a NA-D800 with leak/vac sensor) so I added a Housing Sentry vacuum plug which came with a MiniVac manual pump with a gauge.

While this is (I believe) a brake fluid tool originally, and I do not know how accurate the exact readings are, the following "data" points have been noticed from the Nauticam leak/ vac sensor indicator light:


1. Red state until at least 3mmHg vacuum pressure

2. Yellow indicator between ~3mmHg - ~5mmHg

3. Solid green light at a point beyond ~5mmHg


My practice has been to do battery/ memory card/ o-ring maintenance at the end of every day of diving.

I then seal, initiate vacuum, set-up and check function under ~8mmHg vacuum pressure.

It takes me approximately 3-5 squeezes of the MiniVac handle to get from ~5mmHg to ~8mmHg. (More squeezes needed with a 230mm dome, fewer with a 105 port.)

Once complete, I let my whole system sit (under vacuum) until the next day of diving.

If there is still a green light showing in the morning, I feel comfortable that my risk of a leak is low and I proceed with the dive.


I used to check the "reading" in the morning, but found, even in tropical climates with high variations in overnight temps (sometimes kept in over AC camera rooms, some open air) there was usually zero to <~1mm variation in 8hrs.

What I did find is I was more likely to lose vacuum by checking the reading, and the reason I no longer "verify" the green light with a reading.

In Topic: Diopter options

26 January 2018 - 10:10 AM

Thanks for the reply DocTock.


Is there any difference in quality between the Subsee +10 and the SMC? There seems quite a lot of difference in price between the two.

Given the choice between one or the other what would be your choice?

The SubSee +10 is nice - optics are good.

The SMC is even better - optics are excellent.

I kept the SMC and sold the SubSee +10, but only because I felt there was too much overlap in the magnification between the 2 lenses.

If I had not been able to pick up an SMC as a pre-owned (virtually unused) piece of equipment at a great price, I might still be shooting the SubSee +10...


I think the locking Nauticam flip (or Saga flip) is invaluable. I totally respect anyone who can add/switch wet lenses underwater by just using the port/lens threaded attachment - I just find it cumbersome and a good way to drop/ loose the lens.


Don't forget, shooting with the magnification provided with either is not easy (and if there is any current  :laugh: ), and on a FF Nikon D800, the DOF is extremely small.

If you are not familiar with shooting macro with add-on wet lenses, you may wish to start with the SubSee +5 and a flip lens holder. Often in Lembeh there are other guests who have hauled their entire photography kit and may be willing to let you try their higher power wet  lenses.

In Topic: Diopter options

25 January 2018 - 10:36 AM

For Lembeh and with a Nikon 105mm I've tried Subsee +5, +10, and Nauticam SMC. I've also used both a single lens Saga flip and the Nauticam lens flip.

I still have the Subsee +5 and the SMC and use the Nauticam flip.


The Subsee +5 is nice if you want "some" magnification beyond the 105mm.

The Subsee +10 was very nice as well, but too similar to the SMC for higher magnification.

The SMC optics are excellent.


The Saga flip was nice, worked perfectly, but the addition of the locking aspect of the Nauticam flip improves the stability of the situation.

I've thought about the multi-lens flip holders, but that would be a ton of glass to haul around at the front end of a macro set-up. I also find I'm better off photographically committing to one option on wet-lens per dive - although you could always bring the other lens and change underwater (defeating the advantage of having a flip holder).

In Topic: D850: Nikonos RS 13mm conversion or Nauticam WACP?

11 January 2018 - 04:25 PM

@DocTock: thanks a lot for the advice! Which port are you using or is the Nikonos used as a port? But how is then the connection to the camera? Do you have a photo how this looks like? Lots of questions but thank you for every piece of information!!!

Regards, Sascha

To the OP @oneyellowtang - the advantage for me to the RS conversion is it allows me to carry a full macro and WA kit in my photo-backpack.





The Nikonos RS lens is a port with a lens. 


In the image below, you can see there is a dark metal ring between the Nauticam housing and the RS lens (dome portion).

That is the adapter (has o-ring on inside) that is needed for this Nauticam - RS solution.


To attach the lens, you first mount the adapter to the housing and the camera to the housing.

Then you attach the RS unit (it has it's own o-ring) to both the housing and the camera body at the same time.