Jump to content


Aussiebyron

Member Since 04 Jan 2009
Offline Last Active Today, 02:44 PM
-----

Posts I've Made

In Topic: Which lens set up to photograph Sharks?

Yesterday, 07:50 AM

Attached File  579ps (Medium).jpg   149.18KB   1 downloads

 

I found the best spot to be near the feeder and on the side which he feeds from as you want to get the action shot of the shark coming in and grabbing the bait and then moving towards you.  Practice shooting with higher FPS to get the action shots with strobes turned down to keep up with the camera

 

Regards Mark


In Topic: D500 or 5D iv, for AF, macro/wide, battery life and on land use

Yesterday, 07:36 AM

I dont shoot macro very often but when I do its like 3-4 long dives a day for several days and normally in Indonesia.  Last trip I bought a Tokina 100mm macro lens and used this for the whole trip and used with the Aquatica close up lense (+5 and +10).  The reason why I bought the Tokina was because I didnt want to spend the money on the 105mm when I dont shoot macro often.  I was surprised with the quality and performance of the Tokina 100mm macro. The AF was super fast and pin point accurate and there wasnt a need to go manual.  There was some very fine rocking back and fro when using the +10 but this was in only a few rare occasions during the trip.
 
I have my D500 housed in an Aquatica AD500.
 
Regards Mark

In Topic: D500 or 5D iv, for AF, macro/wide, battery life and on land use

21 July 2017 - 06:12 PM

Looks like you have talked yourself into the D500.  Also bare in mind that there are other Wide Angle lenses which work very well with the D500 and do not cost a arm and a leg.  The Nikkor 10.5mm f2.8 FE is an outstanding lens which can be bought at a reasonable price.  If you want rectangular wide angle the Tokina 11-16mm is also a great lens to play with. 

 

Battery life with the D500 is great. But you have to use the new batteries for it.  Use the older batteries and there be shorter battery life.  This is only an issue if you already have the older batteries from earlier models.  If you do Nikon will replace them with the new batteries free of charge.  I shoot close to 1000 shots with video over 2 dives and still have maybe 80% battery life. 

 

I also turned off WIFI on my D500 as i found it used battery life as it was searching for a decent WIFI at the dive shop (lots of wifi connections).  I turn on airplane mode and never had a problem since.

 

Any questions just ask,

 

Regards Mark


In Topic: Which lens set up to photograph Sharks?

21 July 2017 - 06:00 PM

Attached File  1390ps2 (Medium).jpg   156.59KB   1 downloads

 

I dived Beqa Lagoon in 2014 with Beqa Adventure Divers and would have to say those dives would be some of the most exciting and full on dives I have done with sharks.  I used a Nikon 10.5mm FE on my D7000 for all my dives as often the sharks are very close. The 10.5mm FE on Dx is the same as your 15mm FE. I personally wouldnt add a 1.4x TC to the 15mm as I would find it not wide enough especailly when sharks are right in your face.

 

The secret is to try and position yourself in the best location at the start of the dive and not be afraid to get close.  Have a chat before hand to the dive shop and the guides and hopefully they can put you in a good position. 

 

One dive there isnt enough.

 

Regards Mark


In Topic: D500 focus options underwater?

19 July 2017 - 11:43 PM

Hi Larry,

 

It was my plan to go strobeless, High FPS, and auto-ISO earlier in the year as normally its prime time for blue water and Manta'sand Leopard Sharks (aka Zebra Sharks). I wanted to shoot higher FPS and see how the D500 performs but unfortunately our late summer great conditions this year never happened due to storms, floods, and low vis.  I believe alot of Humpback whale divers/snorkelers go strobeless and shoot auto-ISO in locations like Fiji/Tonga with their gin clear water and hopefully they can give you more information regarding auto-ISO in the water.

 

Normally in less than perfect conditions like in when the vis isnt gin clear, cloudy, or when the subjects are a bit deeper than 5m which for me is most of the time over here especially this year I run with strobes turned right down with a 1/320th shutter speed and around f8-f10 and change the ISO according to your position your facing towards the sun.  I run my D500 at 3fps or higher and its depending on your strobes, the Ikelite DS161 work well for this but it takes a little bit of playing to work out which power setting/FPS combination works with being able to keep up while shooting continious.  I found that on the Ikelite DS160/161 strobes that -2 power setting works well with 3 FPS.

 

Regards Mark