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Member Since 04 Jan 2009
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#325542 Nikor 60mm Macro with wet diopter

Posted by Aussiebyron on 02 February 2013 - 08:23 PM

Hi Ben.

I think your getting caught up with the whole true macro way of thinking.

True macro lenses are able to capture an object on the camera's sensor at the same size as the actual object (termed a 1:1 or 1.0X macro). Strictly speaking, a lens is categorized as a "macro lens" only if it can achieve this 1:1 magnification.

Your right to get 1:1 magnifaction you need to be 48mm away from the subject with the 60mm, 145mm away with the 85mm, and 154mm away with the 105mm. This is only to get 1:1 image size.

In its purist form macro photography is getting that 1:1 image size but honestly the macro term is loosely used for any close up photography which has higher magnification than 1:1. So most of the "Macro" shots you see are actually not True macro but a close up shot of the subject.

The 60mm Nikkor macro is one of the most common and widely used macro lenses due to a number of reason. Its versatility, ease of use, and cost make it most often the first choice of lens for underwater close up work. Most often the 60mm will do what is required for close up work on subjects which are not shy or move quickly ie Nudibranchs, slow moving shrimps and crabs, soft corals etc etc. For those than shoot more shy subjects which are hard to get close too like gobies for example, use 105mm with its extra focal length.

Ikelite do not have 67mm thread on their dedicated ports so if you want to go for the Subsee you will need its holder which comes at a cost often more than a lens.

For first time underwater Macro (close up) photographers I suggest you start off with the 60mm Macro (even the older AF-D) as its cheaper. Once you have mastered the 60mm and need more focal length then go for the 105mm. The 85mm is a DX lens and maybe the next camera you buy after the D7000 will be full frame so my advice is to keep away from DX macro lenses and stick with the tried and proven 60mm or 105mm lens.

Another option and also a cheaper one is that you buy the Nikkon 60mm AFD lens and use a teleconverter like the Kenko pro 300 1.4X. If you add this to the 60mm you turn it into a 84mm focal length but with an image size of 1.4x.........all you need is to find a port to fit it in and from memory it fits in the dedicated ikelite 105mm port.

Regards Mark

#323568 Tokina 10-17 on D800 - how useful?

Posted by Aussiebyron on 31 December 2012 - 07:22 PM

Would be interesting to compare the same image using the Tokina 10-17mm in Dx mode in the D800, Sigma 15mm FE and D800, and also the Tokina 10-17mm with the D7000. On paper there is a difference but what is it really like at the end of the day side by side?

It could be like comparing a block of wood under the accelerator of a BMW M3 and unblocked accelerator BMW M3 but driving them both in busy streets of Bangkok?

#320136 Fast flash sync speed, and the importance of underwater

Posted by Aussiebyron on 08 November 2012 - 01:59 AM

I believe the higher flash sync helps alot in freezing action shots of subjects which have a sunburst in the back ground. More so when you very close to the subject and in shallow clear still water.

#320135 Fast flash sync speed, and the importance of underwater

Posted by Aussiebyron on 08 November 2012 - 01:54 AM

I have noticed a big difference with shooting from the maxium flash sync of 1/200th when I had the Nikon D90 and now the maxium flash sync of my Nikon D7000 of 1/320th. I mainly notice the difference my summer shots in clear shallow water with sunbursts and animals such as Manta Rays, Leopard sharks Turtles

Here are some unedited stock examples of shooting a f9 and 1/320th ISO100 with the Nikon D7000 and Tokina 10-17mm with Ikelite Ds161 strobes:

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These are unedited and only resized to be uploaded

Regards Mark

#319633 Questions on Ikelite D7000 housing, ports and lenses.

Posted by Aussiebyron on 31 October 2012 - 04:09 PM

Hi bgfspeedy,

I had a quick look on the Ikelite website and it looks if you go the modular setup for the 60mm its going to cost you $350 vs $150 for the standard 60mm port. Benefit is that the modular port is glass front. Buy a new port just for the 105mm in standard is going to cost $150 vs $125 for the port body to add to your already 60mm modular setup. At the end of the day if you go modular you have a glass front and ability to change port bodys to accomodate different lens or a TC. The 60mm and 105mm modular port bodies are going to cost $425 (ikelite#5510.35,#5510.58.#5510.22) vs two standard ports at $150 each ((#5505.5, #5502.41). You can always troll for them second hand on ebay or classified sections which might help out in the money department.

You can get adapters for the Subsee and both ikelite modular and standard ports. I think reefnet seel them for $200 and $250 respectively.

Regarding the Tokina 10-17mm FE you have to shoot this lens in a dome. I have no experience with the Precision 5inch dome but it looks like a great setup for the Tokina and Ikelite especially if you want to add a TC later and shoot CFWA. If your into wrecks and big animals I would recommend the Ikelite 8inch dome as it would accomodate other lenses as the Precision dome is designed for just the Tokina 10-17mm.

The standard ikelite ports come with zoom gear from memory but I dont know what they do with the modular port setups.

Regards Mark

#317370 Nikon D600 vs D800

Posted by Aussiebyron on 28 September 2012 - 06:19 AM

UWPhotoNewbie I am just looking at what you think the adavantages the D600 over D800. Most of the advantages you mentioned dont really apply to a camera used underwater.

1. D800 has 36MP vs 24MP on the D600. Well if 36MP is too much to deal with you can always reduce the image size on the D800 to Medium and have a 20.3MP image size. If you want to go back to 36Mp its a simple change especially in the future. You cant do this with the D600 as your stuck with 24MP
2. High FPS isnt an issue underwater as you can only shoot as fast as your strobes can reload (unless you shooting without strobes alot........honestly who is)
3.Dumb green mode wont work underwater
4.Matching memory cards.......big deal these days with cards being so cheap
5.Lighter and small isnt going to make any difference when you put it in a housing
6.IR release..........underwater???

The advantages of the D800 are that there are housing already made for it available now. Higher flash sync which is an important factor when it comes to deciding a camera especially with wide angle. More AF point and better AF. Just the alone are more important advantages over the D600.

Regards Mark