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Member Since 17 Mar 2009
Offline Last Active Jan 28 2014 06:27 AM

Posts I've Made

In Topic: Installing Vivid Housings Leak Sentinel V3 on Ikelite Nikon D300s housing?

13 November 2013 - 01:34 PM

Thanks Bill


It's the threaded bolt in the middle of your picture I can't remove. I've got the outer nut off as well as the control and have no retaining nut fitted. 

What do I used to remove the threaded bolt in the middle of your picture? Pliers seem like an easy way to ruin the threads if I ever wanted to replace it.


In Topic: Nikon D610

08 October 2013 - 02:23 AM

Nikon are to announce the D610 on Tuesday.  I've used a D300 for the last 3 years and really like it.  But I need something with much better low light performance as I now do much of my diving in to wrecks in 60-80m range in Irish waters.  Was considering the D600, it seems to be fantastic at low light and is very reasonably priced, the only thing that puts me off is the really AF system.  I've considered the D800, but it is considerably more expense, and I definitely dont need 36MP.

Rumours so far is that there will only be a slight increase in fps, from 5.5 to 6.  Increase the area the AF covers and I would buy one in a shot.


Anyone out there using the D600 and how you finding it?


I use a D300s underwater (I used to have a D300 which is pretty much identical in this respect) and a D600 on land. 

The D300s has much better AF than the D600 does so I suspect it will perform better at depth (for AF).


I've had a little dusting on my D600's sensor but nothing to really worry about. It needed a clean once (I did it myself) and since then it's been happy.

In Topic: LCD won't turn on at depth

11 September 2013 - 03:58 AM

The LCD protector on D300 cameras is quite thick. You might find that removing it from the housed camera shifts the camera back enough to prevent the focus lock from being accidently being engaged. 


The focus lock is on the back of the camera so removing the LCD protector to shift the camera back would exacerbate the problem surely?
Not the the camera will shift back much at all as it's secured to the mounting plate using the tripod screw.

In Topic: LCD won't turn on at depth

10 September 2013 - 03:06 PM

Again thanks for the advice. 

I checked the camera at depth (45m) at the weekend. The problem is the AE-L/AF-L lock button which has the additional effect of locking the focus so every picture below 15-20m is out of focus! I'm thinking of removing the little plastic cap from the end of the pushing rod to give myself a little more clearance which should sort things out.


No, the eyecup is present. I used to take it off on the D70s I had but it makes no difference so I leave it on now. I just looked at the camera and the eyecup is further in than the LCD protector



The LCD protector seems exactly the same as the one on the D300 (I had one of them up until I flooded it in July hence all the new kit courtesy of the nice insurance man). I might try taking the LCD protector off. Not sure it will help in this situation as if anything it'll be pushing the camera and the AE-L/AF-L lock button forwards and away from the pushing rod causing the problem.



I can't see why it would be the shutter as it's on a swivel rod rather than in and out (so water pressure wouldn't affect it) but just to be sure I checked anyway. The shutter definitely isn't being pressed by the water pressure. The housing is brand new so I'd be really disappointed if the spring was worn.

I'll report back after my next test which is probably in two weeks.

In Topic: LCD won't turn on at depth

03 September 2013 - 02:24 AM

Thanks for the replies.


Tinman, I've been working through the buttons on the back and seeing if they'd interfere with the LCD function but hadn't considered the shutter. I'll have a look at that area next.


J-S, I always leave the LCD protector on a housed camera. It's worked for my D300 and D70s so I can't see why that will upset the D300s. Although it might just be moving it a touch towards the shutter causing a Tinman issue.