Jump to content


mvdvorle

Member Since 04 Jun 2009
Offline Last Active Nov 10 2009 03:44 AM
-----

Posts I've Made

In Topic: What teleconverter for the Nikon 10.5 mm fisheye

30 September 2009 - 11:02 PM

Teleconvertors are really designed for use with longer lenses, not wide angles or fisheyes; so the way we use them for underwater is not a generally intended use. I don't own a 1.4 Nikon tc or 10.5 anymore, but I believe with the arrangement of the lens elements etc, the Nikon TC may actually not even fit with the 10.5. The Kenko TC on the other hand, will fir, and will work.



Thanks for the explanation! I know what will be in my shoppingbasket next time i virtually shop :D
The 10.5 is such a fine piece of glass but find the angle slightly too wide for the way I want to use it (underwater portrets)

Cheers!

marco

In Topic: What teleconverter for the Nikon 10.5 mm fisheye

30 September 2009 - 02:28 AM

Hi all,

Im quiet interesting too in tis topic.
The use of a teleconverter is clear. What isn't clear is that when I look at the Nikon website, it seems that a teleconverter and the 10.5 fisheye are not working together.
I attached the nikon overview, just in case...: Nikon overview

Could somebody explain why/why not etc etc.

(btw, I own a Ikelite housing and a d300)

cheers,
marco

In Topic: Nikon 17-35 f2.8 or Nikon 10-24 f3.5-4.5 or Nikon 12-24 f4

09 June 2009 - 02:56 AM

How about having a seperate strobe in the area behind the canvas lighting the tiles? That should eliminate the dark area.

I'm sure you are used to this, but shooting portraits of a model in a horizontal position I found the 12-24 a bit too tight - and used the Tokina 10-17. If the model is horizontal distortion isn't too bad.


I have been thinkin about 1 or 2 extra slave-strobes but that's too much hassle.
Like I refered in my other reply, I use a tamron 11-18 and at 18mm I still have to come too close to those kids (they sometimes bump into my strobes...). 17-35 would be perfect and make me more flexible, if reliable in a ikelite housing (d300).

cheers for now
marco

In Topic: Nikon 17-35 f2.8 or Nikon 10-24 f3.5-4.5 or Nikon 12-24 f4

09 June 2009 - 02:52 AM

Hi Marco,

Personally, i'd say get the Tokina 11-16mm f/2.8, hands down. In tests, its shown to be as sharp or sharper than the 12-24mm, but its a 2.8 and cheaper. My 12-24mm's going up for sale soon cause of this lens. I find 2.8 better for focusing UW, not saying its faster than the 12-24, but a f/2.8 lens will hunt less than an f/4 lens. I also shoot a lot of low light topside and all my glass is now f/2.8 or faster. Though I don't really shoot at f/2.8 uw as the corners would likely turn to mush.

For a 3rd party lens its quite amazing, and im a bit of a nikkor snob.

Ive posted a few photos with it on wetpixel, just do a search for the lens. Here's a post i just made today, the last two over/under shots in my post are with the tokina.

http://wetpixel.com/forums/index.php?showt...entry214892

Cheers,

Chris


Hi Chris,

That less hunting with f2.8 sounds like music to my ears!
16mm is too short. Right now i use the Tamron 11-18 and still at 18mm I almost crush those kids...
The 17-35 would be perfect if it would operate reliable in an Ikelite housing.

thx
marco

In Topic: Nikon 17-35 f2.8 or Nikon 10-24 f3.5-4.5 or Nikon 12-24 f4

08 June 2009 - 06:18 AM

If you are planning to use strobes as your lighting source, then the difference between the 2.8 lens and f4 lens means little.

Focus speed differences won't be noticeable either.

If corner sharpness is important, then the 12-24 is the better choice. I have no knowledge on the 10-24.


Thanks for your reply!

The main reason why I would like a big(ger) apenture is to catch as much light as I can, so the tiles at the end of the swimmingpool are (more) visible too.

I make portrets of kids while swimming through a big canvas. To get their faces exposed correctly I use 2 strobes. But all that is behind this canvas is black/underexposed. I noticed a higher ISO is possible but then again noise is an issue.

Because my current lens (tamron 11-18, f4.5-5.6) needs to be replaced, I might as well buy a good piece of glass...

Feel free to brainstorm with me :P