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Member Since 01 Jul 2009
Offline Last Active Nov 26 2010 12:37 AM

Topics I've Started

Newbie to strobes - overexposing issues

10 August 2010 - 04:17 PM

Hi there, I was wondering if anyone might be able to help me out with an overexposure issue I'm having with my BRAND NEW Inon D2000 (it's my first strobe, so please forgive the dumb questions!).

My camera is a fully automatic little Olympus mju1020 which doesn't allow much manual control of anything. I've been running some test shots on land with the strobe and the fiber optic connection and have found the images are exposing nicely. My problem is when I block the internal flash (I've been using black electrical tape with a pinprick hole to allow the optics to detect the preflash), all the images turn out hugely overexposed! I'm not sure if it could be something to do with the camera trying to brighten the images because the preflash is virtually blocked and it's not receiving the information it needs to expose correctly? I know that Inon does a tape that blocks out all visible light but allows IR wavelengths - not sure if this could be a solution, or if it's something else entirely? I've been using the strobe in Low sTTL and dialing the EV down to '5 o'clock' (about 7) as recommended by the manual.

If anyone can shed some light on this I'd really appreciate it. Hopefully it's just something I'm doing completely wrong :D

The upgrade pathway - new camera or a strobe?

16 June 2010 - 05:56 PM

Hi there, I'm not entirely sure if this is the best place to be posting this thread, but I consider myself very much a beginner and I'd love some advice!

I've been shooting UW with a housed compact for a couple of years. It's the first camera I've ever owned - a little Olympus Stylus mju1020. It does the basics you'd expect but, like a lot of snap-happy compacts, has no manual control over aperture, shutter speed, focus etc. I'm a poor student and aren't exactly rolling in money, but would really like to upgrade to have a bit more freedom in the sort of photos I take. At the moment, I rely on internal flash and torch lighting and shoot in cold water (10-16 C), so backscatter is a massive problem for anything other than macro shots. I've given some examples below of what I've managed so far - not really much scope for experimenting with lighting, DOF etc. I still love snapping away, but I am increasingly feeling like I've 'outgrown' the capabilities of my current setup.

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My question is this: would I be better off purchasing a better compact (was thinking maybe a Canon G10 or G11) and learning how to improve my photos using manual control before adding a strobe, or would it be a better learning pathway to go the other way around and add a strobe to my existing camera until I can save up for the next upgrade? Eventually I'd like to experiment with adding some macro and WA wet lenses, so that needs to fit in somewhere too!

Thanks in advance for your help. I'm terrible at making decisions! :)

How to reduce battery consumption in 'spy mode'?

03 September 2009 - 07:36 PM

I have a Sealife DC1000 compact camera + strobe that I'm using in 'spy mode' to track nocturnal urchin foraging by taking a photo every 5 or 30 minutes (apparently there's no 10 or 15 minute interval for this camera :wacko: ). I've found that the battery life is severely limiting, and seems to only last around 3 hours in spy mode at 5 minute intervals. I have no idea what is normal or expected for this sort of mode as I have not used it before, and the Sealife technicians are also not entirely sure how long it should last in this situation. The battery is brand new, so I assume that it is fully functional. I was wondering if anyone had tips on how I could possibly reduce how quickly the battery drains?

I have set the LCD screen to minimum brightness, and it only turns on for 10 seconds before each picture is taken. I have also switched all sounds off (not sure if these make any difference to battery life). If anyone could help, I'd really appreciate it!