MRE

Like the fire gobies. those off to Wak -  ask the staff about the superb sink holes (small caves) at the rear of the resort. Stunning for wide angle whilst snorkelling. See if they will show you. Don't tell them I mentioned it.

Martin

Too cold for me Steve. Your colours are vibrant and subjects are sharp.

To improve composition why not think about where in the frame you cut off the base of the anemone.  For example in the first shot the anemone is cut off at the base which may look a little awkward. The viewer often likes to see the base of a subject.

hope this helps

Martin

Great thread. I'm gonna pin it. I generally use my strobes on single short arms. But then I am a bit weird.

Alex

I carn't help but get involved with this thread. I used to use huge arms, at least a meter each side of my housing. Just too long for comfort, I cut them down and down and down. I use quite short arms now, never any further than 0.5m. The test was recently in Truk. It all depends on the subject and like I have read above if you get close with a 10.5mm and it's not that big a subject the flash guns will miss. I take the view that keep them close but angled out and well behind not only the port but the housing itself when required. I used dual flash in Truk on the wrecks with my flash guns level with my face mask.

Martin Edge

hey Jez, thanks for the nice compliment! sure, add it to your arsenal..

Jay, I'm using a nikon d80, sea & sea housing, dual Ys-110 strobes... pretty much the same setup you have... I'm sure you'll do great! now get out there and take some shots

Scott

Could not agree more with the latter posts. I have used several film Sea & Sea flash guns with my D200 including the YS 30’s 50’s and 120’s with no problem whatsoever. Go practice in your back yard on a dark night and learn to use, read and understand your histogram. it's a fantastic tool and will ensure accurate exposures after a little practice

Martin Edge

I think that you will find that Martin Edge recommends aiming the strobes slightly OUTWARDS, to reduce backscatter.

The key is matching strobes to lenses: with macro, almost any strobe will do, if it's not too big to point in the right direction. With wide-angles the beam angle is critical. I use Inon strobes with diffusors, giving a beam angle of 110 degrees, on arms of at least 20cm length. I think that the beam angle of YS110s is less than this, and that could be a problem.

Here is a similar set-up using Ikelite gear:

[attachment=6580:attachment]

Tim

B)

Hi Guys

I would do some tests on land in a darkened room.  You need to have a sense of the spread of light, which your flashguns emit.  For starters position them a similar distance each side of the port but make sure they are behind the port. Start with one gun turned on, shoot the head of a colourful silk (or similar) flower. Try to achieve a black background with a fast shutter and enough aperture for the flash to easily reach the subject. Leave room around the head of the flower so you can check your LCD.  Now angle your flash outwards a little at a time, check your histogram and you’ll see the exposure dropping. This indicates that you are finding the edge of your flash beam (no pun intended).  My advice is always to learn what one flash will do, then turn the other on and blend them together.  In a couple of hours you will have feeling of what one and then a second flash can achieve and in time, which subjects will benefit from dual lighting techniques  Good luck

Martin Edge