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Phil Rudin

Member Since 25 Jan 2005
Offline Last Active Today, 02:20 PM
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#358833 Olympus 7-14 mm f2.8 will not fit in Nauticam housings

Posted by Phil Rudin on 14 March 2015 - 07:31 AM

EpsenB, I think you are over reacting at bit regarding the issue of the new Olympus 7-14mm F/2.8 zoom. Nauticam has a 85mm to 120mm extension with a zoom control allowing you to use the 180mm optical glass dome port (120mm on the housing side) with the current mirrorless Mini housing line. After the adapter is mounted the lens is installed from the front of the housing and then an additional port extension and the port are installed over the lens. This works well for lenses like the Olympus 12-40 zoom and the Zeiss 12mm on Sony NEX and A-APS-C series housings. The zoom gear would be operated from the extension and not the housing zoom dial. I am sure that ZEN Underwater will also have a port solution for this lens going forward. The issue will be to determine the amount of extension needed for this lens. Olympus 12-40 and Panasonic 12-35mm use 20mm of extra extension, Panasonic 7-14mm no extension, I would expect Olympus 7-14mm be be in the 20 to 25mm range if this system does in fact work. The 85 to 120 extension would actually work with any of the ports with the 120mm port mount so you could in theory go to a 230mm port if you wanted with the correct amount of extension. The extension part number is 36052 on the Nauticam port chart.




#358778 A6000 doesn't let you set shutter speed higher than 1/160 > When b.i...

Posted by Phil Rudin on 12 March 2015 - 06:48 AM

The Nauticam flash trigger is a product I am well aware of but it does not resolve the issue of the 1/160th shutter speed. At best you may get one additional stop of shutter speed and not all cameras will have any change in sync speed. You will not know without testing the product with your camera.

This Nauticam product was designed originally for cameras that don't have an included flash or on-board flash like Sony A7 series cameras.


#358749 A6000 doesn't let you set shutter speed higher than 1/160 > When b.i...

Posted by Phil Rudin on 11 March 2015 - 12:09 PM

This subject is an entire class that I can not explain in an on-line post, part of the issue is that you get what you pay for and lower end mirrorless cameras don't have the same features as more expensive ones. Part is sensor size, most full frame cameras are in the 1/250th range because of the mirror needing to move out of the way once the shutter is tripped. The issue relates to proprietary on-board strobes and can be overcome by a stop of light  in some cameras if your strobes are wired to the camera hot shoe and not fired firer optically. You need to do a search on how this all works because you will have a lot of different variables involved. Executable macro at 1/160th v. 1/500th has much more to do with the skill of the photographer than with the equipment both can give excellent results with some limitations. 




#358748 Nauticam Compact Macro Converter

Posted by Phil Rudin on 11 March 2015 - 11:54 AM

End reproduction ratio which in this case is 2:1 and distance to subject varies greatly depending on the system and lens you are using. In the case of the Olympus 60mm macro zoomed to 1:1 with the CMC-1 yielding 2:1 working distance is around 22mm from subject. This may sound very close and it is but with other magnifying closeup lenses of the same power that distance is reduced to around 12 to 15mm a significant difference when trying not to crush your subject and being able get some strobe light on the subject. 




#358742 A6000 doesn't let you set shutter speed higher than 1/160 > When b.i...

Posted by Phil Rudin on 11 March 2015 - 07:50 AM

Big difference between interchangeable lens cameras and consumer compact cameras. Top flash sync speed for your Sony A6000 is in fact 1/160th and some of the more highness cameras go to 1/320th or so. Some have a so called "high speed" sync but it is useless for syncing external strobes. 

 

I just reviewed the Sony RX100 III for http://uwpmag.com/ a free PDF download and I shot a bunch of macro with a 1/500th sync speed, some of those images are in the article.




#358370 Removing the flash thingy from a NA-E-M5 housing?

Posted by Phil Rudin on 27 February 2015 - 09:41 AM

The Nauticam flash trigger is an add-on for quite a few camera makers and started off being made for high-end cameras like Canon EOS 1D and Nikon D4 that don't come with pop-up flashes. It allowed those cameras to be used with fiber optics when in the past bulkhead wiring was the only real choice.

 

While I have no issue with the Hedwig system which I have never used I think you will see the clear difference between the two and it would be nice to have the choice at both price points of around $90.00US and $220.00US. 

 

 

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#358329 Removing the flash thingy from a NA-E-M5 housing?

Posted by Phil Rudin on 26 February 2015 - 08:38 AM

This is a question I would be interested in finding out as well. 

 

I would very much like to see Nauticam make a flash trigger for the OM-D cameras like they make for Canon, Nikon, Sony (A7 line) and in a mini version for Panasonic GH-4 and Fujifilm XT1. The flash trigger is designed for use with fiber optic cables only and work in TTL for some camera brands and in manual flash power settings for other brands like Panasonic.

 

I use manual flash settings exclusively and I am sure many other OM-D users do the same based on the numbers of comments on this and other forms regarding the use of the OM-D's 1/64th power setting to conserve the camera's  battery power. The Nauticam flash triggers are powered by a small flat user replaceable battery which lasts for quite some time because of the very low power draw required to trigger the small LCD lights. With external strobes like the Inon Z-240's set to low power settings you have the ability to shoot at several frames a second with proper strobe batteries. These flash triggers are very useful tools and conserve the cameras battery power which is one of the down sides to the Olympus OM-D line of cameras.  

 

All of the Nauticam flash triggers retail for $220.00 in the US. The price would be worth it to me for the additional creative ability of shooting at 6 to 10 frames per second and for the ability to squeeze several more shots out of the Olympus camera battery.

 

Did not mean to side track your thread oskar but would be interested to know if any other OM-D users would be buyers for a Nauticam flash trigger.




#358152 Nauticam vs Saga Flip Adapter

Posted by Phil Rudin on 21 February 2015 - 10:03 AM

I have used both and the issue of which closeup lens you will be using has now become relevant. The new Nauticam CMC-1 C/U lens will not fit the SAGA flip adapter so you need the Nauticam version. If you intend to purchase that C/U lens going forward the Nauticam is the better choice.


#357400 OMD EM5 and Pana 8mm Fisheye which dome

Posted by Phil Rudin on 03 February 2015 - 11:47 AM

Regarding the ports listed above the ZEN port is for the Olympus housing not the Nauticam housing. The Nauticam version of the ZEN 100 mm fisheye port is different. Nauticam now also offers a 140 mm optical glass Fisheye port that works with the Panasonic 8mm fisheye. Not all of these ports are equal and if you look at the Nauticam port chart and the ZEN listings you will see that some of the ports are listed as FISHEYE ports this reflects the differences in the shape of the dome compared to those optimized for rectilinear lenses. I use the ZEN 100mm port for both the 8 mm and the excellent Olympus 12mm F/2 lenses. Both work quite well with the port for close up subjects. Both of these lenses focus very close 10cm for the 8 mm and 20 cm for the 12 mm which is measured from the sensor. So in effect both lenses will focus all the way to the glass or mm's from it. Using a +2 or +3 diopter closeup lens on the 12 mm just reduces the AOV of an already excellent lens with little to no upside since the lens will already focus within the focus range created by the curved port. For over/under shots and those taken from more that 2/3rd's of a meter you are better with a larger port like the Nauticam 140 mm or 180 mm or the ZEN 170 mm.

 

Shooting very close with the 100 mm dome using the strobes pulled in very close to the housing actually reduces the amount of backscatter for two reasons. #1 the strobes can be placed well behind the dome port and #2 they can be turned outward to reduce the amount of light going to the center of the image. These are issues of technique and require much practice. When the port is within a few mm's of the subject you need only light the foreground subject and the rest is A/V light. With a larger port or even the 100 mm port from more than 2/3rd's meter I would be inclined to move the strobes onto longer arms. The strobes can also be mounted directly to the strobe mounting points on the tray or grips with no arms. If you don't intend to do CFWA with the Panasonic 8 mm you may want to consider the Nauticam 140 mm optical glass port. 

 

Images with the 8 mm and ZEN Underwater optical glass dome both within a few mm's of subject.

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#356615 Panasonic LX-100 Nauticam housing

Posted by Phil Rudin on 15 January 2015 - 07:42 AM

Congratulations Moses I hope you enjoy your new system. Look me up when you are coming to the bridge.


#354669 Move over Sony RX100 (I, II, III), Here come Panasonic LX-100

Posted by Phil Rudin on 25 November 2014 - 04:29 PM

What was shown at DEMA was a prototype housing and photos can be found in the Wetpixel DEMA review on the front page. The housing is smaller than an E-M5 housing, not larger. The housing also has the vacuum wiring and valve mounting point. A small dome can restore the original AOV of the lens lost behind the flat port. Also a flat port with 67mm threads for mounting the (also prototype) wide angle (110 degree) optical glass accessory lens. Popup strobe for fiber optic flash firing.

The ports, unlike most compact housings are interchangeable to optimize the cameras zoom lens for both stills and video.

Also shown was a prototype CMC-1 C/U lens. Designed for small sensors like M43 and compact cameras the CMC-1 has power about the same a SMC-1 and smaller and lighter.


#353588 Olympus 12-40 F/2.8 and the Zen Underwater DP 170 n85 port

Posted by Phil Rudin on 22 October 2014 - 10:37 AM

I agree that if you can afford this combination it is outstanding for both above and below water shooting. If I had to pick just one lens for an assignment that included both over and under shots this would be the lens. Quite sharp and a very wide range of coverage. You can read my review in the current issue of uwpmag.com, this is a free PDF download until 1Nov 14. Images include both ends of the zoom range.

 

 

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#350827 Olympus 12-40 F/2.8 and the Zen Underwater DP 170 n85 port

Posted by Phil Rudin on 26 July 2014 - 06:40 AM

No filter required for the 9-18mm zoom and better overall performance than a 4" (100mm) port. The smaller port will obviously work better for confined spaces and at closest focus.


#350766 Olympus 12-40 F/2.8 and the Zen Underwater DP 170 n85 port

Posted by Phil Rudin on 24 July 2014 - 10:52 AM

The 12-40mm F/2.8 gives you a little less magnification in auto focus than it does if you go to manual focus and crank the lens as far out as it will go, same same with all zoom lenses. So in practical terms using auto focus and the Zen DP-170 n85 II dome port you are looking at getting to around 1:1.5 in 35mm terms or about 55mm on the long side by 41.25mm. 




#350711 Olympus 12-40 F/2.8 and the Zen Underwater DP 170 n85 port

Posted by Phil Rudin on 23 July 2014 - 08:27 AM

Hi Tom, Did you not look at the photos above, the starfish tip is full frame at close to maximum magnification and the 100% crop shows the detail at F/2.8. It is quite clear that in some cases the 170mm dome will be harder to get close with than say a 100mm or less flat port but that would not be comparing apples to apples. The lens that should be compared to the Olympus 12-40 is the Panasonic 12-35 zoom which works in the same port. Most will want to compare the 12-40 to the Olympus 12-50 using the flat port. The 12-40 is a much better lens than the 12-35 or the 12-50 in terms of image quality. If you can use the 12-50 with the DP-170 port the 12-40 wins hands down, it will focus much closer than the 50mm end of the 12-50 and has better image quality throughout the zoom and aperture range.

 

Attached are images with the 12-50 at 50mm max. magnification rendering about 1:5 in M43 or 1:2.5 in 35mm terms and the 12-40 at 40mm max. magnification rendering about 1:2.6 in M43 or about 1:1.3 in 35mm terms, Quite a difference in how close they will focus. You can argue the 43mm semi macro behind the Nauticam flat port which gets you to about 1:1 in 35mm terms v. 1:1.3 but then you don't get full use of the wide end of the lens.  

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